Still Smoking after PCV replacement

[scot850]

The car has a weird (to me) PCV system compared to the P2 or P80 cars. They have an issue with a valve diaphragm that fails. I have that job to do with my friend who has a V50 T5 AWD. That and also the thermostat cheap (well not cheap!) and nasty plastic housing that warps and leaks. Fun job as it requires pulling the turbo air housing out which is always 'fun'. I guess we get a twofer as both are bad and can be sone at the same time.

Neil.

[precisionguesswork]

have them look at the turbo check valve (PCV ball valve new version, diaphragm old version) bare minimum clean it up to make sure that it isn't getting stuck in one position or the other. It sits right in the neck of the turbo inlet.

PHOTO-2024-01-04-00-55-54.jpeg (73.23 KiB) Viewed 1002 times

[MoVolvos]

2013 C30 125,000 miles

I have been taking my car for the past few years to a local shop that does European cars. They work on lots of Volvos.

Ok, i have been having an issue with puffs of blue smoke at start up for years. Used to be only on really cold days. Then, this past summer, it seemed to be all the time at start up. So I spoke to the shop and they suggested a PCV replacement. This has never been done on this car and I have owned it since 2013. So I said, let's do it!

Now the car is smoking all the time. Blue smoke. Oil. This is very frustrating. AND it cost me $741. The shop seems to not know why this is happening. Any suggestions here could maybe point them at someting to look at?

Side note: I remember when I first had to take this car back to the dealership when it was under warranty in 2014 Winter and having the first time seeing the blue smoke. So this has been going on but not this badly for the past 12 years. I had the same shop replace the ETM about 2 years ago because the car would randomly not start in the super cold temps. Not sure any of that helps but the more context the better.

Help me MVS, you're my only hope

I love this car and don't want to have to get a new one. Could this be piston rings? I've never had a car that needed that. Probably time for new plugs too? Only 125,000 miles.

Thank you!

Dustin

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Talk about fog thick street zero visibility smoke?
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[BlackThunder]

UPDATE

Last week I took the car back and they said they would look at it. Apparently the PCV part they put on was defective and wasn't pulling vacuum like it was supposed to. So they replaced it. Now things are back to how they were before. Still puffing blue smoke on cold starts in the morning.

But at least it isn't smoking like before. So I'm guessing it is the valve stem seals? I don't know if this shop will be willing to replace them. Also, that's going to be expensive. I want to keep this car for 5 more years if possible. Not sure how quickly I'd need to get these seals replaced.

Thanks, everyone, for your help. So happy to have my car back though!

Dustin

[scot850]

Glad to hear the car is running again. A long shot but you could try adding some ATP AT-205 or Blue Devil seal conditioner to your oil and see if by chance it can help soften some life back into the valve stem seals. Many have used this for various oil leak issues over the years and it has helped. What oil are you running in your engine?

Neil.

[precisionguesswork]

UPDATE

Last week I took the car back and they said they would look at it. Apparently the PCV part they put on was defective and wasn't pulling vacuum like it was supposed to. So they replaced it. Now things are back to how they were before. Still puffing blue smoke on cold starts in the morning.

But at least it isn't smoking like before. So I'm guessing it is the valve stem seals? I don't know if this shop will be willing to replace them. Also, that's going to be expensive. I want to keep this car for 5 more years if possible. Not sure how quickly I'd need to get these seals replaced.

Thanks, everyone, for your help. So happy to have my car back though!

Dustin

bad valve guide seals typically present themselves....
1. Hard pull: stop at light: then take off smoke out of the exhaust. (pulls vacuum and draws oil passed the valve guide seals
2. Engine braking: Deceleration via low gear (creates high vacuum and exacerbates the issue)
3. Long idle: (higher vacuum and again draws oil in passed the the seals)

Seal conditioning additives will work to an extent but the underlying problem will get worse over time.

Replacing the seals isn't a super tech issue, however, it does take patience and some specialty tools. I've done this numerous times without removing the head. Don't go the route of compressing the cylinders with air, just use nylon cord/rope to fill the cylinder at BDC then run the cylinders around with a socket on the crank until you feel the cord/rope bind against the valves. This is a without fail way to replace the valve guide seals without dropping a valve. If you have any detailed questions feel free to ask.

[BlackThunder]

Thank you all for the help. Well things were back to the "just puff of smoke at the cold stat" for about a month.

This week has brought a new issue. Burning oil smell when the car is stopped. ALSO, I checked the oil level and when I pulled it out and wiped off the dipstick it smelled like it had has in it. The oil also looked fairly discolored for how new it had been. It's only been in there for a few months.

I use Castrol Synthetic. I usually use 5w30 but on the last oil change they shop listed they put in 0w30. Could that be an issue?

I'm not due for an oil change for another 2,000 miles. I'm taking it back to the shop next week. I'm wondering if something got messed up when they put on the properly working PCV system that they warrantied?

Again, I'm not wanting to get rid of this car. But if it needs new piston rings or seals that may be cost prohibitive and the "guy at the desk" of the mechanic shop said it might be better to get a new engine at that point

I definitely don't want to get a new car but may have to really start thinking about it?

Thanks again, I'll report back. Also, I'll have them look at the Turbo Check Valve, as stated above. Thank you.

Dustin

[BlackThunder]

bad valve guide seals typically present themselves....
1. Hard pull: stop at light: then take off smoke out of the exhaust. (pulls vacuum and draws oil passed the valve guide seals
2. Engine braking: Deceleration via low gear (creates high vacuum and exacerbates the issue)
3. Long idle: (higher vacuum and again draws oil in passed the the seals)

Thankfully none of that is going on
How the car does feel like it is a little sluggish. But my on board computer says I am getting 37.5 mpg at 300 miles on this tank of gas!

- Dustin

[scot850]

I would not use 0w30 in your car. I would be using 5w30. or even try 5w40.

Neil.

[BlackThunder]

I would not use 0w30 in your car. I would be using 5w30. or even try 5w40.

Neil.

Yes, Neil, I thought the same thing. I guess it is getting colder here but I would think that it is too early for 0W30. I always put 5W30 in.

I am really not sure how good this mechanic is. I don't think they have ruined my car but these are the only guys in my area without driving 2 hours away that actually work on European cars. They see the most Volvos in the area - well they see a lot of my Volvo at least.

At what point to cut my losses and trade this car in? If the Mechanic says it is time for piston rings / a new motor?

Thanks.

Dustin