Oil Anti Drain Valve for the P3 -- 3.0T and 3.2 Topic is solved

[TreverRhoads]

I think I may have a solution... It appears that Ford uses the same style of anti-drain back setup on the oil filter housing of their diesel F-150s and have had a rash of the same type of issue with the valve failing. Ford issued a TSB (22-2386) for the issue and have a part available, ML3Z-6A606-A. If it isn't an exact exchange it sure looks like it 2ould be too hard to make it work. As I have already pulled my XC70 T6 apart today for the oil change and it is a Sunday I will be ordering this part for the next oil change I do on this car.

[pgill]

It looks very promising.

I called my FORD dealer and I placed an order

I'll take a picture when I get it.

Thanks for sharing

Paul

[Bachadaboy]

Hey guy's thanks to TreverRhoads and pgill the Ford part works on the Volvo anti-drain back valve issue.

I ordered the Ford part # (ML3Z-6A606-A) from https://www.fordpartspros.com (they have them in stock as of today, and they delivered it quickly i.e. three days from MO to Virginia)

It arrived a few days ago, today I opened up the oil filter cap on the oil filter housing on my 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 and installed the Ford ML3Z-6A606-A "Valve Assembly" and I can confirm it's identical to the Volvo part that was used in the factory build.

Those of you familiar with the anti-drain back valve know they get smashed out flat and become hard as a rock, they're brittle and fall off of the spring. I found mine a few months ago just laying at the bottom next to the hole. As such, my oil drained back every time I turn off the engine. Probably not good for the oil pressure or the winter time start-ups.

The easy way is:

1. ) grab the new valve with needle nose by the "duckbill.
2. ) lift the spring with a tool or a finger.
3. ) place the valve down on top of the drain.
4. ) lower the spring, adjust the nub position if needed.
5. ) press the nub by pressing down on the spring to insert the nub through the hole.
6. ) reinstall oil filter and cap.

One word of caution is to be extremely careful when moving it around at the bottom of the housing! Since it's very small and made of rubber it sprung around "bounced" inside the housing when I tried to adjust it with my pick tool when it was in the incorrect position, and thank God it didn't go into the opening for the oil cooler or fly out and get lost somewhere in the engine bay.

Also try to make sure it's right side up before pushing the nub through the hole in the spring, I had not noticed it was upside down and the nub was going into the oil drain passage. I used some more light to see it was not right side up.

After I figured that out, it was a piece of cake. Probably 20 minutes from start to finish. While it was open I figured why not install a new oil filter, so I did that too.

If you find that your valve is broken off and the nub is still in the hole you can use some long needle nose pliers to grab it from the top by the "duckbill" and carefully pull it out. Try not to lose it, you don't want it getting stuck somewhere in your oil galleries! (more than likely it will just end up either in your oil filter or oil cooler).

https://www.dieself150forum.com/attachm ... -pdf.2758/



If you open up the Ford technical service bulletin above, there's a video showing how easy it is to install without the oil filter housing in the car. It takes him about 15 seconds to remove the old one and replace it. It took me about 10 minutes to get the nub into the hole "that's what she said" in the spring.

I also provided a link straight to the video under the TSB pdf, maybe useful.

https://www.dieself150forum.com/threads ... idle.2988/

[lntravler]

i read through all posts. thank you all for your input. i will check at next oil change.
i found a big black plastic material (about 8 cubic cm) at last oil change. i wondered where does this come from? i did not see any parts missing. so assume it is from CD2 oil leaking additives? i just change a new filter and screw back in.
i do remember that there were considerable amount of oil even the filter was removed. does that Means the drain plug was clogged? any issue could be?
there is bypass valve as well in case filter was clogged?

[Bachadaboy]

I'm not a big fan of using "stop leak additives" and neither is Volvo. Most Volvo owners' manuals, if not all of them say specifically to not add "ANYTHING" to the fluids. If you removed the filter and there was oil still in the housing then it's not draining. It's possible the valve has become dislocated from the metal spring and doesn't lift up when the filter is removed. A simple solution is to check. No harm in taking a look. Just remove the filter and suck out with a turkey baster or automotive fluid syringe or mop up the excess oil in the housing with a rag, pull up the spring and see if the valve is still attached. If it's not, then it could be just below covering the drain hole, thus keeping the oil from draining out.

[pgill]

[xHeart]

I run ours on Penzzoil Euro 5W40. My recollection of oil and filter change is that there was a tablespoon of oil at the bottom of the housing. I normally soak it out; noticing the springiness of the metal ring.

I ordered the replacement Genuine Ford Valve Assembly ML3Z6A606A to have it at hand during the next annual oil and filter change -- FWIW, the oil analysis says it could endure another 3-5K miles.

As suggested in this thread, It can be checked as a service item at the oil change.

[kodzillaa]

Hi everyone!
Do you know if engine 2.5ft b5254t11 has this same oil drain back system? At cold start there is some rattling for 15-20 sec and we suspect that there is no oil to start normally. Thank You for answering!
Best regards
Christopher

[mtd240]

Just replaced this on a 2008 XC70 yesterday - hardest part was getting all the old hardened rubber bits out. Thanks again to whoever figured out the Ford part!