How to evaluate a used Volvo

Post by **fazool** » 21 Feb 2012, 14:56

--- What to look for when evaluating a used Volvo ---

People often come to MVS for advice when considering the purchase of a used Volvo:

"Is this a good deal?"
"Should I buy this car?"
"What do you think of this...?"

Essentially, everyone is asking the same question: "What should I look for in a used Volvo?"

This write-up is intended as a list of common/recurring suggestions from the MVS forums. It provides no guarantee or recommendation for any purchase decision.

Early S80: The first model-years of the S80 are notorious lemons. Stay away from early S80's (1998 through maybe 2001 or 2002).

S60 Transmission: The first years of the P2 transmissions are considered "time-bombs" for failure. Stay away from 2001 and 2002 V70/XC70/C70/S60 models.

Timing Belts: The front wheel drive Volvo's have "interference engines", which means the valves and pistons WILL collide if the timing belt breaks. Timing belts must be replaced on schedule (or earlier). Check the maintenance/service schedule. If the timing belt is overdue, or there is no record of it, have it replaced BEFORE taking ownership. Never take a used car without a record of timing belt replacement (unless its under the mileage requirement). If it's not recorded - it never happened. And if it's not recorded then this car was NOT well tended by a knowledgeable Volvo owner or mechanic. Even if the car has fewer miles than the required service interval, but is many years old, the belt needs to be replaced due to age deterioration/weakening.

Dashboard lights: Turn the key on to position II and make sure the check engine, SRS/airbag and ABS lights on the dashboard all light up. Start the engine and make sure they all go off. Unscrupulous sellers might disconnect the bulb or have a burned out bulb, hiding a deep problem.

ABS Light: Some ABS problems can be solved for a couple hundred dollars, with rebuilt ABS modules, etcetera but this is an important safety feature. If this light stays on, have this checked and repaired before buying the car.

SRS/Airbag Light: Be very cautious of SRS/Airbag fault lights. This is a major safety system and could require some serious work and should really be left to a very skilled expert or a Volvo master mechanic/dealer.

Check Engine Light ("CEL"): Most commonly, this light is due to an engine sensor or emissions control system failure. Early Volvo 850's have a user diagnostic tool under the hood for decoding a check engine light. If the vehicle has a CEL, follow the instructions in the MVS repair database to determine what is wrong. This is a simple procedure but takes patience as the process is a little slow and tedious. Newer vehicles use a standardized OBD ("On-Board-Diagnostic") connector and must be read by a "code-reader". Any auto parts chain store will read these codes for free. Some CEL codes are easy to fix and might be very inexpensive. Others could indicate some bigger underlying problems.

PCV: The Positive Crankcase Ventilation system includes several small orifices, one-way valves and screens that get clogged and gummed up. This is not a major repair but will need some work. A tell-tale sign of this is evidence of oil splashing/spraying around and on the engine. Also, remove the oil-fill dipstick with the engine running. Put your finger over the opening. A light suction is OK. Blowing or puffing out the dipstick suggests a clogged PCV system that wil need servicing/cleaning.

Transmission Fluid: Late model Volvo's have permanently sealed transmissions. Volvo recommends against flushing or draining these transmissions. Check the transmission fluid by wiping the transmission fill disptick on a white paper towel. The fluid should be a reddish brown. If the fluid is very dark or black or sludgy, you likely have a transmission problem looming. If the fluid is bright red and clear, it has been replaced and you should ask why. If you have a keen nose, you can smell the fluid for signs of burn, as well.

Engine Oil: Check the oil fill cap and oil disptick. Engine oil should be dark brown. Look for light brown peanut buttery foam or slime. This can indicate water/coolant leaking into the oil.

Turbocharger: Most Volvo's come equipped with turbochargers now. If yours has a boost gauge, watch for response during acceleration. Check from a standstill and when passing a car. The turbo boost should increase into the low teens of PSI (actual value will vary depending upon model etc.). If you don't have a boost gauge, you may want to have the boost tested by a shop. Tell-tale Volvo turbo boost should show up as an uneven acceleration - slow from a standstill but a quick snap response when passing a car, with a slight acceleration lag to the gas pedal.

All Wheel Drive: Check your AWD to make sure the prop-shaft (rear wheel driveshaft) is in place. An ad-hoc work around of a faulty AWD system is to simply remove the shaft and drive silently as a FWD-only car.

Those are some of the common reliability issues I have seen or read of. Perhaps other MVS experts can chime in and add some more.

Post by **matthew1** » 21 Feb 2012, 15:21

Great post, Fazool. I put it in the Volvo Repair Database.

Post by **regent** » 21 Feb 2012, 15:24

This checklist is very systematic and easy to follow; I am printing it out and will recommend it to some people who will save time and money by just looking at it.

Thanks fazool, for all your help!

Post by **Xilikon** » 22 Feb 2012, 08:20

Great text about what to watch. A better idea is to create a checklist sheet with cases to check. Like that, when you go check a used Volvo, bring that and check everything so you don't forget anything.

A word of advice would be to bring the car to a Volvo dealer or qualified mechanic for a full inspection when your preliminary inspection show no notable bad sign because some problems are well hidden that only a mechanic could find them. At least, with a checklist, you won't be paying 100$ a few times for nothing when first telltale signs of issues can be detected by a buyer.

Post by **xHeart** » 22 Feb 2012, 11:06

10 out of 10 for Fazool.

Post by **xHeart** » 22 Feb 2012, 11:23

I use Volvo's checklist for the up-keep of my two. This checklist is used prior to a CPO.

Is it OK to post it with this thread at MVS?

Post by **Xilikon** » 22 Feb 2012, 12:59

xHeart wrote:I use Volvo's checklist for the up-keep of my two. This checklist is used prior to a CPO.

Is it OK to post it with this thread at MVS?

I would like to get ahold of that checklist !

Post by **jblackburn** » 22 Feb 2012, 13:43

Is it OK to post it with this thread at MVS?

Please...go for it!

Post by **xHeart** » 22 Feb 2012, 14:02

The checklist sellers' fear. It is not a how-to, but what!

MVS_VolvoChecklist.pdf: (100.06 KiB) Downloaded 3005 times

Post by **xHeart** » 23 Feb 2012, 11:54

fazool wrote: The first years of the P2 transmissions are considered "time-bombs" for failure. Stay away from 2001 and 2002 V70/XC70/C70/S60 models.

I frequently read your post, some multiple times since there is always more between the lines. Thanks!!!

Our 2001 V70XC is now 10+ years with 130kmi. All original, and maintained by-the-book. It is running great on premium 93, volvo/mobile 10W30 since june 2001. The timing belt was done at 123600 by the Volvo service.

Any red flags ahead - a transmission D&F this summer?

Many thanks.