A few questions

bk404 · Post by **bk404** » 24 Jul 2017, 17:14

Hello! I just acquired an 04 S60R. So far I have been loving it. I came from a late 90s Civic so this is definitely a big change. Everything from driving dynamics to part prices

I do have a few questions:

1. It seems that my drivers side lumbar adjustment isn't doing anything. Is there an easy way to fix that? Would it be easier to get new seats?

2. I want to do a fluid change on everything. Rear Diff, MTF fluid, power steering etc. Will I run into issues doing a simple drain and fill on the driveline? I ask because I know it uses clutches for the AWD system. I'm not sure if and/or when the fluid has been swapped out. I know there have been discussions that a fluid change can damage Auto transmissions if it has never been changed.

Interested to hear what everyone has to say.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 24 Jul 2017, 18:58

1) I've never touched one but I THINK I remember seeing a diagram of a strap of sorts which is wound tight via the lumbar knob. The strap can come loose. IF that's a correct memory I suggest asking at an upholstery shop or Volvo dealer because some disassembly for repair would be involved. You'll get a feel for prices along the way. For example: A competent shop could rebuild / repad and even recover if the leather was as flakey as mine was.

2)AWD (bevel gear) first: There's no known aftermarket replacement for Volvo bevel gear juice.

I do not know what's in the rear diff...always FWD V70's for me. Pretty sure it's a standard 75W-110 (or 75W-140 if high mileage?).

The Pentosin CHF-11S is the P/S fluid. It's said to have been superseded by their 202.

The consensus on trannie fluid is that clean is better than dirty. Lots of balky shifters have been rejuvenated by drain & fills or 12 to 16 quart pump outs via a cooling line.
The more fervent question regards brand / type of fluid. Volvo fluid is very expensive.
Mobil3309 is available by the case via Amazon.
Toyota Type-IV is available via dealers and Amazon.
Wolf's Head Super Universal Synthetic Transmission Fluid is available via their website, amaliestore.com (shipping is free).
Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc LV (the LV is key here) also works. I've used them all except for Volvo's psycho-expensive stuff in 5 of these AW55-50 transmissions over the years with success.

Don't omit flushing the brake system. Check to see if all 8 boots and their caps are intact and that the pins they protect are clean and lubed. All you need is a 7mm allen socket to remove the pins. Do 'em one at a time.
Also, check the condition of your handbrake shoes. This is vital as separated lining pieces can cause a lot of damage. Use Volvo handbrake shoes only.

Hope that helps. Kira

bk404 · Post by **bk404** » 25 Jul 2017, 20:22

Thank you for the very informative post!

The upholstery shop should have no issues with the airbag in the seat? I was just going to remove the seat from the car and bring the seat to the shop rather than the whole car. That was my idea.

For the fluids, should I be safe with the amount of mileage that I have? Approx. 143k.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 26 Jul 2017, 07:25

Upholstery shops know how to "weak stitch" and where it needs to be done.
If you bring 'em the seat they'll love you as a customer. Heck, I'd ask 'em for a discount.
Go ahead and change the fluid in the trannie.
1) Some'll say to do successive drain & fills 'til clean. "Gradual cleaning", they'll say.
2) Some'll say just go ahead and do a cooling line pump-out. "Get it all out at once", they'll say.
3) I say do the first drain & fill. If the drained fluid comes out clean and clear you need go no further.
If the fluid is dirty (which yours will be) the first drain & fill will have the sump full of clean oil.
Now disconnect your cooling line and do the pump-out. You'll be pumping out dirty fluid and skipping the step which results in starting the pump-out with semi-dirty fluid.

A drain & fill before a pump-out is a negligably small amout of added work which will get you to clean faster by as amny as 4 quarts of fluid.

My earlier V70 trannie had black fluid and by doing the sump drain & fill first I was pumping clear red fluid after 8 quarts, not the 12 to 16 commonly reported.

The job will go so fast you won't believe it. Where in CT are you?

Post by **abscate** » 27 Jul 2017, 04:24

If you remove the seat the battery has to be disconnected and you can't use the car. If the ignition is powered up, the SRS system will detect the missing seat and pop a code which you need VIDA, a higher end scanner, or a dealer tax of $150 to clear. Oh wait, CT? $250. ( just pulling your wallet, I mean, leg)

Make sure you get all the connections right before you power up, too.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 27 Jul 2017, 05:28

I have a PPC reader which clears the SRS light. PM if needed.

Post by **JRL** » 27 Jul 2017, 09:38

Are you sure the lumbar is not working?
If someone has turned it all the way it needs about 2 to 3 full turns before it "catches" again.
Before that it just spins and feels like it's broken!

bk404 · Post by **bk404** » 29 Jul 2017, 23:00

Georgeandkira wrote: ↑26 Jul 2017, 07:25 Upholstery shops know how to "weak stitch" and where it needs to be done.
If you bring 'em the seat they'll love you as a customer. Heck, I'd ask 'em for a discount.
Go ahead and change the fluid in the trannie.
1) Some'll say to do successive drain & fills 'til clean. "Gradual cleaning", they'll say.
2) Some'll say just go ahead and do a cooling line pump-out. "Get it all out at once", they'll say.
3) I say do the first drain & fill. If the drained fluid comes out clean and clear you need go no further.
If the fluid is dirty (which yours will be) the first drain & fill will have the sump full of clean oil.
Now disconnect your cooling line and do the pump-out. You'll be pumping out dirty fluid and skipping the step which results in starting the pump-out with semi-dirty fluid.

A drain & fill before a pump-out is a negligably small amout of added work which will get you to clean faster by as amny as 4 quarts of fluid.

My earlier V70 trannie had black fluid and by doing the sump drain & fill first I was pumping clear red fluid after 8 quarts, not the 12 to 16 commonly reported.

The job will go so fast you won't believe it. Where in CT are you?

I'm from central CT. So not too far away from the NY state line. 40 mins or so. I will have to make that a job to do before the winter sets in. A manual transmission should be even easier then cause I'm assuming that's the steps for an auto? My goal was to do a Brake bleed, MTF drain and fill and a drive line fluid swap. I also want to get the active suspension working as well. I appreciate the offer on the scanner!

abscate wrote: ↑27 Jul 2017, 04:24 If you remove the seat the battery has to be disconnected and you can't use the car. If the ignition is powered up, the SRS system will detect the missing seat and pop a code which you need VIDA, a higher end scanner, or a dealer tax of $150 to clear. Oh wait, CT? $250. ( just pulling your wallet, I mean, leg)

Make sure you get all the connections right before you power up, too.

Haha, I love it. I've got a VIDA scanner coming from eBay. Seemed to have gotten decent reviews. I'm hoping that should take care of many issues that may come up that would require the dealer. Does this car have a radio code? I didn't see it mentioned anywhere so I'm assuming no.

Nothing needs to be done when reconnecting the battery, correct? Weird question I know, but this is my first car that has more than a Radio and an SRS module haha

JRL wrote: ↑27 Jul 2017, 09:38 Are you sure the lumbar is not working?
If someone has turned it all the way it needs about 2 to 3 full turns before it "catches" again.
Before that it just spins and feels like it's broken!

I'm thinking, I've turned it lock to lock and don't feel a difference. I've tried the passenger seat and feel a noticeable difference. Any idea on any other possible issues?

I appreciate everyone's input.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 30 Jul 2017, 04:34

bk404 wrote: ↑29 Jul 2017, 23:00 Nothing needs to be done when reconnecting the battery, correct? Weird question I know, but this is my first car that has more than a Radio and an SRS module haha

Follow the following procedure to reconnect the battery. Following this will help prevent other electrical gremlins.

http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/miscissues.htm#207347288

bk404 · Post by **bk404** » 30 Jul 2017, 08:36

93SCMax wrote: ↑30 Jul 2017, 04:34
bk404 wrote: ↑29 Jul 2017, 23:00 Nothing needs to be done when reconnecting the battery, correct? Weird question I know, but this is my first car that has more than a Radio and an SRS module haha
Follow the following procedure to reconnect the battery. Following this will help prevent other electrical gremlins.

http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/miscissues.htm#207347288

Yes, perfect.

Thank you!