P2 brake bleed nipples, Brake Bleed Screw is ATE-390354 Topic is solved

pauluscamperman · Post by **pauluscamperman** » 06 Aug 2020, 11:38

Hi, have done a search which came up blank so i hope this is not repeating a topic already covered.
I have a 2003 V70, today whilst bleeding the brakes the last bleed nipple was seazed and broke. does anyone know what the size, pitch and type the thread is so I can retap the thread to clean it of debris?
thanks in advance

Post by **oragex** » 06 Aug 2020, 15:07

Get them from Volvo or used from the breakers. I tried an aftermarket one and it didn't fit tight. I believe these are the same front-rear even if the top part looks different - so may use front ones on the rear calipers because it appears more solid. As for tapping I'm not expert but I tried once to remove/drill out a broken nipple. Hours later I went and installed a used caliper. Small tip, when a nipple is stuck and finally comes out, never put it back in place, replace it - mine broke when I remove it the next time

Post by **volvolugnut** » 06 Aug 2020, 15:15

Check out this post:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32317&mobile=desktop#p148427

Confirm the discussion is for your vehicle year and model.

volvolugnut

Post by **cn90** » 06 Aug 2020, 15:26

Most ATE brake calipers have bleeder bolt size of M10 x 1.0.

Best is to remove a good bleeder bolt from the same axle and measure.

This is your likely PN:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... w-30665014

pauluscamperman · Post by **pauluscamperman** » 06 Aug 2020, 16:10

thanks oragex and cn90
having thought about the consequences of mis drilling or damaging the flare in the calliper I've decided to try and extract the offending stub by only partially drilling and the use good quality stud extractor. I'm not holding out much hope of removing it but will give it a go as I've nothing to lose. but I think I will end up having to replace the calliper

Post by **- Pete -** » 06 Aug 2020, 22:00

If the nipple just broke off your best luck will be to weld a nut to the top of what remains of the bleeder. Think rosette/plug weld. The heat generated is almost always enough to get things to free up. If that fails, (which it usually doesn’t) reman’d calipers are pretty inexpensive as long as they aren‘t Brembo’s.

Also, there is a handy & inexpensive brake bleeder repair kit at Advance that might be worth a shot if you’ve already drilled the remnants out & haven’t had luck tapping for the new bleeder. I’m actually running one of these on a rear Brembo caliper on one of my P2’s & it’s surprisingly holding strong!

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dor ... 21260012-P

Also, clean the conical seat at the bottom of the bleeder hole very good. I use a Q-tip. At the end of it I have a small piece of sand paper to do sort of a “valve lapping” job on the seat. Clean it spottless and don’t be afraid to wrap your new bleeder (or repair type bleeder) threads with good quality Teflon/plumbers tape. This is NOT for sealing purposes, but rather to give your bleeder more “bite” on the walls of the drilled & tapped bleeder hole. The conical end is where the sealing needs to take place.

pauluscamperman · Post by **pauluscamperman** » 07 Aug 2020, 09:06

Hi Pete
thanks for reply, unfortunately the thing broke flush with the caliper so nothing to weld to. Had a look at the repair kit and it looks perfect.
I have tried heating before it broke.
I'm not sure if the repair kit is available in UK but I'm sure that I could replicate something like it on the lathe.
I've seen a similar type of repair on a UK video that uses a motorcycle type banjo bolt flexible brake line with an incorporated bleed nipple, it would probably work but I have two concerns with this, firstly would it be able to cope with the demand of a heavy volvo and second it will not allow any air behind the piston to be expelled without forcing the piston right to the back of the bore.

Post by **- Pete -** » 07 Aug 2020, 13:58

That’s been my experience with broken bleeders too - cracks off just below the hex. So long as it’s not oozing brake fluid you should be able to shoot your wire through the nut and then just build it up and fill it in. Don’t let it cool, try to back it out while it’s still hot.
The big downfall is if it cracks off again you’re going to have to drill & there may be some pretty tough material left behind.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Aug 2020, 19:02

You can also bleed a caliper by cracking the brake hose

It’s messy , but it works. A large mixing tray from Lowe’s will catch all the brake fluid, about. $10

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 07 Aug 2020, 20:26

Long soak with penetrating oil. Then drill with a Left hand drill bit say 8mm if it is 10mm. Might just spin out the nipple when the bit bites. Left hand cuts counterclockwise (loosen). If not your have clearance to get a tap started.