2001 V70 T5 [ loose induction ]Hit a bump, Traction control kicked in, car stalled out and won't stay started Topic is solved

[bbeels]

Hello everyone,

I hope someone has had a similar experience, or knows a solution that can be shared.
We are looking at my 2001 V70 T5 249,000 miles.
This afternoon, I crossed an intersection that had been repaved this summer. When they finished, the seaming between the cross street was left in the form of a ramp, as the fresh paving is a few inches lower then the street that crosses it. Anyway, I crossed perhaps quicker than I should have. I was accelerating across the intersection and still was when I got to the seam. Oops, well, the front tire traction abruptly changed and the traction control kicked in for a bit. i went a few blocks and then got to a stop sign, when I stopped, the car stalled rather than idling. I tried to get it to restart, and it will, but the idle isn't holding, and it just stalls again.
I walked home. I returned with the tools to disconnect the battery, just in case the computer needed resetting. I tried starting, and it does, but the idle issue remains. I disconnected the battery for 13 -20 minutes and then reconnected and tried the ignition. Same deal, if I hold the rpms up, the engine keeps running, but if I let off, the idle doesn't hold and it stalls. I considered trying to limp home, but wasn't getting much power to the transmission, so I think the computer may be limiting something. the other challenge is that when I try to put the car in gear, I let off the gas and it stalls. kindly, it is on a residential street with no limit on parking, so I feel I have some time, but would like to get it moving, even if I have to work on it some once I get it home.
Would it help to disconnect the battery for an extended time, like overnight?
Thank you in advance for any tidbits that might help me diagnose and treat this issue.
Brian

[bbeels]

Added info: no bottoming out, nothing fell off, no drips under car, slight smell of gas after trying to start several times (flooded?) No random liquids out of place under the hood.
It's a 2001 car, sometimes I have to flip the key over to get it to turn. Other times, the key sticks when the steering wheel lock is tight. I went back to the car to try again to start it this evening and for whatever reason, the key refused to turn when put it either way. not sure if this would be a computer controlled item, or just that it's a below freezing evening.
I will see what happens tomorrow.
Thanks, Brian

[gnalan]

Automatic or manual transmission? I didn't see that listed, but it might be useful for others to know so they can try to help.

I'm not familiar with the turbo models, so I'm not sure where to look for the problem, unfortunately.

Did you use the key fob to unlock the car, or did you use the key in the door? Maybe it's an issue with the alarm, but I'm not too familiar with how they work either. You may want to try and unlock the driver's door with the key and then try the key in the ignition.

[bbeels]

Geartronic, so basically an automatic.
Did use the key fob, so I'll try the key in the lock when I go back to it tomorrow.
Thanks, for the nudge for extra info.

[abscate]

Your idle problem might be related to the road seem incident but really that would involve something getting loose.

Check the induction pathway and hoses for looseness, if unmetered air gets into a ME7 car, 1999- on, they won’t idle at all.

If your battery is weak, over five years old, the traction control might have killed it. Your car might crank fine but have too low voltage to run well.

[jonesg]

it does sound like loose or split induction hose..
Hose coupler at the turbo and duct to the ETM under the car are seen here on occasion.

[oragex]

When the key doesn't turn, make sure you release the steering 'lock' www.youtube.com/watch?v=qojcKauz8b0
See disconnected/split hoses as mentioned above, may also look with a flash light if the PCV box is properly secured.
What gas pressure do you get ? Should stay near 55-60 psi
Also check connectors near the starter (even if it starts) and near the battery

[93SCMax]

Good advice on a loose or cracked induction hose, or even a weak battery.

Do you have access to an OBDII scanner. I'd check for codes and even double check the message screen on the left side of your dash. If something comes up, that could point to your problem. If nothing comes up, it's possible the hard drop over the road seam loosened/cracked a connector or even cracked a solder joint on a circuit board (ECU, ETM, etc). I'd also try unplugging your MAF and see if it idles correctly.

Do you know the history of your MAF and ETM (ie. have they been replaced or are they original)?

[jonesg]

On some volvo models a damaged abs wire can trigger limp mode.

[bbeels]

Score another one for the Matthewsvolvosite braintrust!

I awoke to several suggestions that pointed me in the right direction.

Battery is good, new in July 2019.
Maf cleaned in the last year or so ago.
ETM Xemodex repair Sept 2018
I do have an OBDII scanner that is hooked up in the car, but I didn’t check it, (oops), and did disconnect the battery for a bit. Of course, after that I haven’t been able to get the key to move.

I got back to the car, key still not wanting to move, so I couldn’t get the OBDII to connect to my iPad. Gave up on that and opened the hood.
Just like suggested, a turbo tube had popped off. The boost coupler from the over engine pipe to the turbo outlet (new this march) was clearly the issue. A 7mm socket and is all it took to fix it.

Right now I can’t get the key to turn, but it should be warmer in a couple of days, and there are various posts to free up the ignition tumblers.

Once I get that sorted, I expect the car to be back to normal.

Thank you all for the helpful input.