Did I Fry My '06 V70??

[Toby411]

I'm new to the forum but hoping someone might have some good advice. I'm afraid that I've fried my V70:

I recently did some work on my 2006 V70 2.5T:
-- Refurbished the turbo
-- Replaced the front engine seals (oil pump gasket, crank seal, cam seals)
-- Replaced the water pump & seal
-- Replaced timing belt, tensioner & idler pulley
-- Installed a bluetooth adapter on the factory radio https://www.vivaperformance.com/bluetoo ... p2-models/

The car sat for a while, since I had to do this work bit by bit. Once I was finished, the battery had drained. So, I plugged I hooked up my old, grungy battery charger that I inherited from my father-in-law. Put it in start mode (50 amps) so that I could fire up the car. But then my son came outside and I got distracted. All this time, the charger was on, and the battery was hooked up to the car

I didn't immediately realize what I'd done, but when I finally went to start the car, it wouldn't fire up. (I will come close, but it never quite runs.) Then all sorts of error lights came on. I know it isn't a mechanical timing issue: I had the cams locked, everything is marked clearly, and I cranked the engine by hand several times to make sure the timing marks remained synced up. So, my guess is that I overcharged the system when I left the charger plugged in.

Scanned with VDASH, and here's what I get:

So, I'm afraid that I may have fried a bunch of sensors, and maybe even damaged the ECU or TCM.

I'm not sure it's worth chasing down all the possible electrical problems, especially since modules and sensors can be so expensive. And I understand that replacing/reprogramming the ECU and/or TCM can get expensive.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Jared in NRV Virginia
- '88 240 DL Wagon (wife totaled)
- '98 V70
- '01 V70 T5
- '06 V70 2.5T (on life support)

[cn90]

Put a new battery in and see what happens.

[abscate]

See above. You need a solid 12.5 v to diagnose stuff on an electronic car.

Your charger won’t push 50 Amps unless you are cranking so I doubt that did any damage. The only code relevant here is that immobilizercode, that will cause a no start

[darylrobert]

did you check the fuses?..including the hidden ones under the engine fusebox??

[Toby411]

Thanks for your responses. My take-aways/follow-ups:

1) Try a new battery.
-- Should I try this even though I have since fully charged my current battery, and I get the same result? The engine cranks, and there seems to be plenty of battery power (post-charging). But I just never reach ignition.
2) Immobilizer tripped
-- I wondered about this. On maybe 1/6 of my attempts to start, the engine won't crank, but I hear a rapid clicking sound. I figured this was related to the immobilizer. Most of the time, though, the engine cranks but just won't catch. So, I reasoned that the immobilizer code was downstream from a larger electrical problem. Am I thinking about this wrong?
3) Fuses
-- I checked several fuses in a targeted way—none were blown. Worth it to methodically check ALL fuses and relays?

Thanks again for the advice. I really appreciate the help.

Jared

[scot850]

Are you getting any warning messages in the info message center on the LHS of the cluster? Any mention of the immobilizer or key problems there?

The battery may turn the engine over, but when I over charged my battery (charger went rogue) it was toast internally as it have warped the plates. I got 12+V but not the CCA needed. If you can take it to a parts store that has a battery checker get them to do a full check. That will then eliminate or confirm the battery from the issue.

The other issue is damage to the alternator and the voltage regulator.

The real help here would be access to Vida to be able to check the various modules to see what is not talking to the car.

Neil.

[matthew1]

Pull the plugs/coils and rest them on the head*. Then have someone crank it with hood open in a dark garage and look for shorting from plugs to block. That will tell us if coils get power / signal is sent to coils.

* if they can be placed/positioned this way. I can't remember if it's possible, my time with my 04 V70 R ended in 2011.

[abscate]

On maybe 1/6 of my attempts to start, the engine won't crank, but I hear a rapid clicking sound.

Thats a dead battery. The max current draw is when the starter is cranking from rest. After it starts turning, the draw drops.

[Toby411]

Thanks again for the advice. I’ll have time to work on it again this Friday/Saturday. Will do the following
1) Check battery and try the one in my ‘01 V70
2) Check for spark
3) Check “warning messages in the info message center on the LHS of the cluster.” I remember there were a few, but I didn’t write them down at the time. One was “Transmission Service Required,” or something to that effect. Swapped out the gear position sensor after that, but no change.
4) Check all fuses and relays

Will report back Sunday or Monday with the results.
Thanks again!

Jared

[yanga001]

Second with abscate and scott. A very dead battery will cause nie every code to trigger on these cars. I had a dead battery once cause the transmission to stop working. Car wouldnt shift properly.

Alternators usually use a diode bridge to convert the AC electricity to dc electricity. If I understand the online diagrams correctly then i do not think you will see backcharging/travel of current back into the voltage regulator.

You most likely just cooked the battery good and plenty, and all the residual systems are suffering low voltage dropout errors.