DIY: Some thoughts about rebuilding engine mounts for FREE (ONLY top and torque mounts)

[cn90]

This is a very old topic: replacing engine mounts.

BTW, FCPEuro has a nice youtube video showing you how to replace the engine mounts on P2.
Basically 13-mm and 18-mm wrenches or so.

I have done many mounts (top and torque mounts) on many P2 Volvo and here are my thoughts for those
new to this subject.

There are basically 5 engine mounts:
- #1, #2, #3 support the weight on the engine.
- #1 and #2 last a long time, replace only if you see oil leaking out.
- #3 lifespan is about 120K-150K etc. Info in forum.
- #4 lifespan is very short, about 3-4 years.
- #5 is the top torque mount, lifespan about 5-6 years etc.

Mounts #4 and #5 are not really a mount, rather they are "shock absorber" as you rev the engine, the
top of the engine rocks back and forth (toward and away from the firewall) a bit, maybe 2-3 mm or so.

As a test, remove the 18-mm center bolt on the top mount, rev the engine a bit to see how it moves.
Also, by removing this center bolt, you have an idea of how much vibration you have at idle.
Sit in the car with engine at idle and this bolt removed, the amount of vibration you feel comes
from only #1, #2, #3 and #4, as #5 is now disconnected.

Anyway, I have found that buying #4 and #5 is a waste of money bc I now rebuild them using FI hose. FYI:
- Hutchinson brand (Poland) is now $74.
- Lemforder (China) is now ~ $44.

The metal part (the aluminum component) does not break. You basically pay big bucks for a piece of rubber!

Hose: I used Fuel-Injection hose bc it is reinforced. Avoid plain vacuum hose bc it does not last as long.
Avoid Poly mount bc it will increase the vibration.
I use mostly 3/16" FI hose (Advance Auto, Autozone etc.).
Just cut the apropriate length and squeeze it in there.
As long as you have a tiny bit of play, then you are good.

Shown is the upper engine mount but the trans torque mount can be rebuilt too.

So glad I don't buy #4 and #5 any longer.

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[dikidera]

Haha, you are using my ghetto methods as well .

I also reinforce the top mount as well. However in my experience it fails the fastest or the quality of aftermarket is super bad. I have quite a lot of engine movement as you describe, and in my opinion the top and possible the lower torque mount are most responsible. I'm on my phone right now so I don't want to write my long essays on the topic.

[cn90]

Update...

- The ghetto method (inserting vacuum hose to occupy empty space) works great for #4 and #5.
As mentioned above, #4 and #5 do not support the weight of the engine.
They act like shock absorber and their design is flimpsy.
They break after 20K-40K miles.

- Just replaced Right engine mounnt on the 2005 XC90 2.5T with 132K miles. The car runs fine, I happened to see
the lowered bolt. Usually, the weight of the engine depresses on the mount. It sinks first.
If you measure from the top of the plate to the top hole, the old mount usually sinks about 3-5 mm with time, not a big deal
but not optimal.
And if you neglect it, the rubber will eventually separate from itself.
The FCPEuro youtube video says 14-mm bolts etc.
For my 2005 XC90, it is 13-mm and 17-mm bolts.

Easy job.

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[abscate]

I missed this awesome post on rebuilding the torque mounts on the P2 , thanks cn90