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Persistent Check Engine light, but no codes thrown - 2001 S60

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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paul1149
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Persistent Check Engine light, but no codes thrown - 2001 S60

Post by paul1149 »

Hello,

My '01 S60 base model has had a Check Engine light for a week, but it is not throwing any codes. I did a Brave AI search and got an overwhelming number of possible causes, but I was wondering if anyone here knows of any Volvo-specific reason this might be happening. The car seems to be running pretty well. It has suffered a lack of power since a major overheating episode maybe six years ago. And I just put in a new exhaust, and there is a leak after the front pipe, because somewhere along the line a mechanic sawed off its rear flange, leaving me a very difficult joint to make work. So it could be an EVAP situation, but again, there are no codes. I've also replaced the oxygen sensor a few years back. But I know anything can go at any time, so I don't know how valuable this info is.

Thanks.

Here is the Brave AI answer:
A persistent check engine light (CEL) with no error codes displayed can be concerning, but several potential causes exist. One common reason is an intermittent issue that triggered the light but resolved before a code could be stored, especially if the fault condition did not persist through a complete diagnostic cycle. Some vehicles store "pending" codes, which indicate a potential problem that hasn't yet been confirmed as a fault, and these may not trigger the light immediately. Additionally, a faulty OBD-II scanner, particularly a low-end or outdated model, may fail to read all codes, including those from proprietary systems or other vehicle modules like the transmission control module. A damaged or dusty OBD-2 port can also prevent a proper electrical connection, blocking communication with the vehicle's ECU.

Other possible causes include a malfunctioning sensor, such as a faulty oxygen sensor or mass airflow sensor, which may send erratic signals without generating a specific code. Loose or corroded electrical connections, a failing battery, or a recent battery disconnection can also trigger the CEL without leaving a stored code. Software glitches within the vehicle's engine control unit (ECU) can sometimes cause the light to illuminate without corresponding diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), and a software update or ECU reset might be necessary. In some cases, the issue may be related to the emissions system, such as a failing catalytic converter or a problem with the particulate filter, which might not always generate a code immediately.

To address the issue, start by using a high-quality, updated OBD-II scanner that is compatible with your vehicle make and model, as some advanced tools can access pending codes and historical data. Check the OBD-2 port for dirt or damage, and inspect the battery and all electrical connections for corrosion or looseness. Ensure the fuel cap is tight, as a loose cap is a common cause of a CEL that may not generate a code. If the light persists after these checks, it is advisable to consult a professional mechanic who can perform a thorough inspection using specialized diagnostic equipment capable of reading deeper system data and potentially uncovering issues that standard scanners miss.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

What code reader are you using? If the CEL is on, there are codes present, but they could be TCM codes which trigger the CEL.

You need a decent AUTEL high end like 500 series to get to these codes sometimes, or, of course, VIDA.

Where are you in the Empire State? I code read for free, but I am isolated in Suffolk county - home of scared white people.

Off topic - What a bunch of useless AI crap - and to think we are using all our electricty for that...
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paul1149
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Post by paul1149 »

Hi,

I have an old inexpensive reader. Thus far it has served me well, though this s60 doesn't support all the functions, such as VIN. I'm in the mid-Hudson Valley, in Dutchess County.

I see an Autel AL519 for $60 and a Foxwell NT301 for $56.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

take a look at the fuel trims, with any exh and o2 issues it could be way off, it would explain some of your symptoms.
I had an autel , cost me $240, it was good, I sold when I got VIDA.
Whatever you get make sure it can erase an SRS light, cheap ones can't and its real easy to set the SRS light when working on the car.

it sounds like the aft cat flange joint rusted away and they chopped it off.
Youre left with the stub end of the cat, best way is get a flage that fits inside the pipe and you weld it or have it welded.
this, you'll have to measure the inside dia of the old pipe so the new pipe can fit inside and note whether its oval or round.
I think its 2 1/2 round but you need to verify.

https://www.amazon.com/LCGP-Exhaust-Fla ... 9hdGY&th=1

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paul1149
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Post by paul1149 »

Yes, thanks so much. It makes a lot of sense that the exhaust leak, which is fairly significant, is the root of the problem.I regret not replacing the front pipe, I have spent so much time trying to make the joint work. My plan now is to bring it to a muffler shop (not a franchise) and have them deal with it.

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Post by Krons »

My code reader is a Volvo specific iCarSoft off Amazon, works well for my use and easy to keep in car vs a laptop.
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Post by paul1149 »

Thanks much, that looks like a really great device. I'm not sure how many of its functions would work on my 2001, but I will keep this in mind and contact them if it comes to it. My first step is to get the exhaust fixed and see what that does.

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Post by jonesg »

paul1149 wrote: 06 Nov 2025, 06:56 Thanks much, that looks like a really great device. I'm not sure how many of its functions would work on my 2001, but I will keep this in mind and contact them if it comes to it. My first step is to get the exhaust fixed and see what that does.
I also had holes in the cat which I also welded up, everything is fine since , original cat would (NLA) cost more than the car now so they're worth fixing.

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Post by paul1149 »

The plot thickens.

I just took it to the repair shop, and as soon as they put it on the lift they discovered a significant fluid leak. Investigation showed the timing belt area covered with oil. My first thought was the front seal, which probably would signal the end of the car's life. But then we noticed oil leakage at the oil filler cap, which never happened before. At that the mechanic surmised that this is probably a clogged crankcase vent system. When he took the cap off fumes were coming out and the rate of dripping from below slowed, so it does seem overpressurized.

The oil was down a quart – I had just checked it several days ago and it was midway on the crosshatch. So tomorrow morning I check the level again to see how much I lost on the ten mile trip home. That will tell me how much time I have to get this thing resolved.

The owner doubted the exhaust leak was causing the CEL. He said it would have to be very bad to do that. His money is on the crankcase situation.

Can anyone give me insight into the job? What needs to be replaced, how involved and expensive is it? If it's not too bad and fairly accessible I should be up to it.

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paul1149
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Post by paul1149 »

It's not looking good for the car. I see the PCV repair is not trivial at all, and I will be needing wheels soon. I also wonder if the front seal is permanently blown, as that's the area most of the oil came out of.

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