2007 S60 2.5T Serpentine Belt & Tensioner Topic is solved

[MoVolvos]

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Topic started here.

viewtopic.php?p=674501&hilit=Update#p674501

So I took a look today while the weather was good and sunny. Many questions I had were answered as I removed things. Took an hour but I managed to get the broken tensioner out from the top. Not sure I will be able to put it back from the top as the area is super tight and the wheel and bearing will require more room.

I followed the FCP video besides removing the cover, case for the modules and timing cover to provide more room for my hands and the tensioner bolts. There are two bolts on the tensioner and one for the side timing cover and all are10mm. I found two debris from the wheel and bearing that came apart. Would have to remove the splash guard to see if anything else is lodged down there.
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1) OE Volvo Tensioner 06/07/31 so probably 7/31/2006.
2) Wheel n Bearing Gone
3) Tensioner Removal
4) Belt Damage But Didn't Come Off Even Without The Wheel n Bearing To Ride On. Still Driveable w/Hard Steering
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[Krons]

If I recall right, I replaced just the pulley on my 2002 S60 and the full assembly on the 2008 S60. I do think the full assembly I did have to take out through the will well, definitely had some contortionist maneuvers as that area is tight.

[vtl]

3x 10 mm bolts for the PS pump, move it away

[MoVolvos]

If I recall right, I replaced just the pulley on my 2002 S60 and the full assembly on the 2008 S60. I do think the full assembly I did have to take out through the will well, definitely had some contortionist maneuvers as that area is tight.

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May have to go through the bottom as the wheel and bearing will be larger.
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3x 10 mm bolts for the PS pump, move it away

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I laid the bearing in that area so I can take a picture. The PS Pump was not in way. It's the chassis / frame and timing belt area that I had difficulty with. With the wheel and bearing in the new tensioner I may not be able to find an angle to get it in from the top. Will find out and post whether it will be successful.
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[vtl]

I laid the bearing in that area so I can take a picture. The PS Pump was not in way. It's the chassis / frame and timing belt area that I had difficulty with. With the wheel and bearing in the new tensioner I may not be able to find an angle to get it in from the top. Will find out and post whether it will be successful.

I did it so many times, can't remember too much struggle with it. Could be it goes via wheel well, yes.

[MoVolvos]

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The new tensioner can go in from the top. If you don't have a T60 Torx Bit for the tension adjuster, I think that's the OE size, a H3/8 Hex Head Socket should work. Will confirm when the belt is installed in the next couple of days. Suggest to lay a light color towel on the bottom to catch the bolt, socket or tool if you drop them like I did. Next, wrap a 3" sheetrock screw with some self sticking felt harness tape for the lower hole as a guide. Make sure it's snug enough so it doesn't go through the tensioner hole. Use the same tape for the socket and bolt. Secure the upper bolt first then the lower.
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[cn90]

- This is why every 110K miles, I replace the TB + its pulleys x 2, but also:
- Drive belt (Conti only) + the pulley posted above.
- The tensioner (with its torsion spring inside) lasts "forever", maybe 300K miles. This device rotates back and forth a tiny bit (about 1 mm etc) to accommodate the engine crank rotational speed and acceleration/deceleration changes.

PS: the old belt + pulley go to the trunk as spare, just in case.

[vtl]

- This is why every 110K miles, I replace the TB + its pulleys x 2, but also:
- Drive belt (Conti only) + the pulley posted above.
- The tensioner (with its torsion spring inside) lasts "forever", maybe 300K miles. This device rotates back and forth a tiny bit (about 1 mm etc) to accommodate the engine crank rotational speed and acceleration/deceleration changes.

PS: the old belt + pulley go to the trunk as spare, just in case

Conti does not stretch as much as OE (Gates?) does, that's why the tensioner wiggles back and forth. OE belt dampens quite a lot.

[cn90]

OE is Conti.

[vtl]

OE is Conti.

Most definitely not. Not for P2. At least, not the same design that you get in a blue box. Different color, different compound, different stretching.