Login Register

2001 V70XC - Brake line and Caliper Service Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

Post Reply
cn90  
Posts: 8251
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 466 times

Re: 2001 V70XC - Brake line and Caliper Service

Post by cn90 »

xHeart,

Congrats...

The most difficult is always making a correct bubble flare in situ.
As I mentioned above re my 2006 BMW X5, it was challenging to make the bubble flare in situ.

How was the Neiko bubble flare tool?
Last edited by cn90 on 25 Nov 2019, 17:59, edited 1 time in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

xHeart
Posts: 3306
Joined: 3 December 2011
Year and Model: 2.0/3.2
Location: Great Lakes - USA
Has thanked: 113 times
Been thanked: 115 times

Post by xHeart »

cn90 wrote: 24 Nov 2019, 11:11
How was the Neiko bubble flare tool?
Indeed, in situ is ten fold harder. Except for the struts, everything else was removed to make it a workspace -- used glove with grip and dexterity support. Volvo wheel well is huge, you can move in if you're fit.

The choice was between OTC and NEIKO.

I found Volvo's copper brake line wall a bit thicker, real hard to handle and shape barehand, compared to the steel sample I picked up for practice from the neighborhood auto parts store.

NEIKO kit needed lubrication as first step, one butterfly nut's matting surface was uneven and needed flattened.

The yoke to fasten 4.75mm tube gripped the thicker wall real firm. Found the adapter sticking a little afterward, even with careful prep and lubrication.

Two things...
First, the flared-base that sits on the M10x1 nut does not need to be flared-flat to max at the freshly flared line, the flatness is reached during the life-cycle, with each repair providing good seal. Second, a good leak proof connection begins with flared line dripping, and ends with final turn of the nut making a good seal and stopping the drip completely -- live as it happens.

As my friend says, "THAT'S ALL BOYS..."
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

cn90  
Posts: 8251
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 466 times

Post by cn90 »

Haha,

This is exactly what I learn from "garagejournal" forum...

These "garagejournal" forum folks taught me when making bubble (or double) flare:

- Stop when the die is about one business card thickness from the yoke, or about 1mm.
So the bubble flare is kind of 98% done. The final torque from the bolt in the car will seat it.

- When installing it, tighten the bolt a bit but leave some room for further tightening. Mine leaked a drop here and there. After further tightening, it is bone-dry.

- And yes, I applied a tiny bit of anti-seize on the bolt threads.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post