Oil and Filter Change How-To (S80 1G and other P2 Cars)

[vegasjetskier]

The pics are of my 2001 S80 T6 but the procedure should apply to other P2 cars as well.

Tools and supplies you will need:

Jack and jackstands.
12mm socket and ratchet.
Oil Filter Wrench (band type or special Volvo tool).
17mm socket and ratchet or 17mm end wrench.
Oil drain pan.
New filter with o-ring: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/136 or: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDeta ... id=1275811 or: http://www.swedishautoparts.com/S80/vol ... lters.html
New drain plug aluminum crush washer (optional but recommended): http://www.swedishautoparts.com/S80/vol ... shers.html
7 quarts of oil (for a T6 - others may take less).
Paper towels or rags.
Funnel.
Small screwdriver.
Torque wrench.

Begin by chocking the wheels, jacking up the front of the car, and placing the jackstands so the car doesn't fall on you while you're under there working.

Now use the 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the 7 bolts holding the undertray to the bottom of the car:

(36).JPG (217.15 KiB) Viewed 14778 times

Drop the tray down and slide it out of the way.

Use the 17mm wrench to loosen the oil drain plug located on the back of the oil pan:

(5)-1.jpg (115.8 KiB) Viewed 14785 times

Place the oil drain pan under the car and unscrew the drain plug the rest of the way by hand. Hold onto the plug if possible - if not, you'll have to fish it out of the used oil. This shot shows the plug removed with the crush washer on it and the magnet on the end with some metal filings:

Use the 17mm socket and Ratchet to Loosen the Oil Drain Plug.jpg (107.77 KiB) Viewed 14784 times

Use the paper towels or a rag to wipe off the plug and washer (if you're going to reuse it). Slide the new washer on the plug if you have one. Wait until the oil stops draining out of the oil pan, then wipe off the crush washer mating surface on the back of the oil pan. Screw the drain plug back into the oil pan and tighten with the wrench to 26 ft-lb. Do not overtighten or you will live to regret it when you can't get the plug out for your next oil change.

The next pic shows the oil filter cover and the dished-out area in the subframe that allows you to use a conventional spin-on filter wrench:

Drain Plug Showing Crush Washer and Magnetic Tip.jpg (84.37 KiB) Viewed 14840 times

Use the oil filter wrench to loosen the cover by turning counterclockwise:

Oil Filter Cover and Subframe Dish Locations.jpg (103.13 KiB) Viewed 14878 times

NOTE: If you can't loosen the cover with the conventional wrench, buy the special Volvo tool, available here: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/136 or here: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=A261
DO NOT drive a screwdriver through the cover to remove it - you will be buying a new cover for $15 and your car will be down until it arrives: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDeta ... id=1275808

Move the drain pan under the filter cover and unscrew the cover the rest of the way by hand. Hold onto it and turn it upside down over the drain pan to drain the remaining oil out of it. Pull the filter out of the cover.

Here is a pic showing the new filter and o-ring, old filter and filter cover:

Use the Filter Wrench to Loosen the Cover by Turning it Counterclockwise.jpg (93.67 KiB) Viewed 15014 times

Now use the small screwdriver to pry the old o-ring up and out of its groove:

Old vs. New Filter Comparison.jpg (93.63 KiB) Viewed 14838 times

Roll the o-ring up and off of the cover and remove it:

(24).JPG (210.9 KiB) Viewed 14782 times

Roll the new o-ring onto the cover and down into its groove:

(27).JPG (208.67 KiB) Viewed 14776 times

Use the paper towels or rags to wipe out the inside of the cover. Make sure you remove any gunk that may have accumulated at the bottom. Now take the new filter and place it into the cover. Push it down until it slides over the center post in the bottom of the cover:

(28).JPG (218.45 KiB) Viewed 14782 times

If you worry about having oil pressure the maximum amount of the time, pour some oil into the cover while holding it upright. Now slide back under the car and screw the cover back into place. The cover says to torque it to 25 N-m (19 ft-lb), which is fine if you have a torque wrench, but if not just tighten it with the wrench until it is screwed in as far as it will go. The o-ring makes the seal, so you only need enough torque to keep the cover from unscrewing. Also, it takes some torque to force the filter over the center post up in the engine. Make sure you get it in far enough that the o-ring is engaged in the housing or you will have a major league leak.

Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap:

(31).JPG (216.11 KiB) Viewed 14786 times

Insert the funnel and add the appropriate amount of high-quality oil (I like the full-synthetics like Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge) per your owner's manual (for my T6, 7 quarts). If you added oil to the filter cover before you put it on, make sure you account for that. I usually add about 1/2 quart less than specified, then check the level after I run the engine and top-up as needed.

(35).JPG (208.15 KiB) Viewed 14780 times

Pull the oil dipstick out to check the level. Wipe the end of the dipstick off, then reinsert it into the tube and pull it back out to get an accurate reading.

(48).JPG (214.14 KiB) Viewed 14778 times

The oil level should be between the two lines on the end of the dipstick:

Oil Dipstick Level Marks.jpg (98.23 KiB) Viewed 14845 times

Replace the oil filler cap and start the car. Make sure the oil pressure light goes out within 30 seconds - if it doesn't, shut off the engine and investigate what is wrong.

Check under the engine for leaks from the drain plug or filter cover. If you have no leaks, shut the engine off and reinstall the plastic undertray.

Remove the jackstands and lower the car to the ground. Check the oil level and top-up if needed. If your Engine Service Light was on, reset it: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?p=50879. You're good to go for another 7500 miles.

Make sure you dispose of your used oil in an environmentally-friendly way.

[S60 Blues]

Nice post! I recently changed my oil and was having difficulty removing the oil filter cover with a traditional spring wrench. It wouldn't grip the slippery plactic cover. I wasted an hour running to the local Kragen in search of a proper wrench, no such luck. On my way home I was thinking about how to get a better grip on the cover. I am cyclist and have plenty of rubber inner tubes around. I cut one up, wrapped it around the filter cover and applied the wrench. Problem solved!

[MadeInJapan]

Very good write-up and solution for the filter wrench. I also went through this and I broke 3 of the cheap Chinese ones that fcpgroton and eeuroparts (as well as IPD) sells...until I found this here: https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Speci ... 134&sr=1-2 This is definitely the one to get- works perfectly every time and helps because you can use a socket on it and actually torque the cover to spec!

[confused_al]

Very good write-up and solution for the filter wrench. I also went through this and I broke 3 of the cheap Chinese ones that fcpgroton and eeuroparts (as well as IPD) sells...until I found this here: https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Speci ... 134&sr=1-2 This is definitely the one to get- works perfectly every time and helps because you can use a socket on it and actually torque the cover to spec!

I broke that cheap sh*&%# at first turn , had ran down to the stealership to get one. Guess what? They sell the same AST V410 wrench as "volvo tool 9995679".

[sixvolvos]

'01 S60 2.4T
When I changed my oil the first time, yesterday, I found the o-ring in the second groove down. I expected it to be up against the flange and used in compression. I left it there, not knowing what else to do. Experienced Volvo indy techs had done the change before, so I had to trust that iot was proper.

Your description was exactly on target, but where is the proper groove for the o-ring gasket?
Thanks,
Sixvolvos

[vegasjetskier]

'01 S60 2.4T
When I changed my oil the first time, yesterday, I found the o-ring in the second groove down. I expected it to be up against the flange and used in compression. I left it there, not knowing what else to do. Experienced Volvo indy techs had done the change before, so I had to trust that iot was proper.

Your description was exactly on target, but where is the proper groove for the o-ring gasket?
Thanks,
Sixvolvos

I believe where I show it in the pics (look especially at the one where I'm prying it out of the groove with the screwdriver) is the proper place. It seals by radial compression against the inside of the engine block. I haven't had a leak yet.

[vooman]

At Harbor Freight they have a set of various oil filter wrenches, the type that slip over and have a socket drive. They look like they're cast aluminum, and one appears to be Volvo compatible. Haven't tried 'em yet. Mine's stamped steel from PepBoys, works fine. The entire HF set was less than I paid for my single one.

[swanie]

ipdusa.com has a neat filter wrench just volvos. I have found getting one is a good investment - as sometimes when I am on the road and need a change - the shop wont touch it unless I have the filter wrench.

I replace the drain plug washer at every change.

[Checksix]

I've found a cheap strap wrench works great on my Volvo as there are no interferences.

Jerry

[cockers]

HI good post ,however your name Vegasjetskier,even i know you can not jet skie in the desert, or is there something you are not telling us in the UK HaHa. Would love to go to Vegas some time, i think it's a must do before i die.Is it as good as they say, if i'm gonna come over to the states would you reccomend somewhere else