Hello,
The latch on my trunk recently started failing to latch. It turned my trunk into the 'honour system', so obviously I wanted to get that working again pronto!
I managed to without needing to buy any new parts, here's a few hints if you run into this same problem:
Step 1: Remove interior trim on inside of trunk around latch. There is a bunch of snaps that just pull out with a little force.
Step 2: Undo the three bolts holding the latch in, the two nuts holding the lock in, and the wire harness.
Step 3: Now the fun: carefully drill out the two rivets:
Step 4: Also remove the two torx screws on the latch. Then pull apart the latch, take a look inside. In this case the plunger isn't retracting - this is why the latch won't latch. Under normal circumstances the plunger is in, applying voltage makes it come out. Removing voltage it should retract back in:
Step 5: The plunger just snaps out, this picture shows where it is held in. To fix it I just started to take the plunger itself apart... and it suddenly retracted into itself! After that it worked fine, so I Just put it all back together:
Step 6: Drill a hole all the way through the 'rivets' so you can put new rivets in. I used 12mm rivets... they were a little long when done so I hammered them down. Note that it's really more like a bushing which is pressed at each end, but you can easily replace it with a rivet.
Step 7: Replace the latch back in the door. All done!
S60 2002 Trunk Latch - Info on Fixing
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
S60 Trunk Latch Fix
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vegasjetskier
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Thanks! Pinned in the repair database.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
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dropkickwalker
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 28 January 2010
- Year and Model: S60 2003
- Location: UK - Oswestry
Awesome! Thank you! Exact issue and resolved in 15 minutes.
Volvo Dealer wanted £100 for a new latch + fitting! This post allowed me to fix for free!!!!!!
Volvo Dealer wanted £100 for a new latch + fitting! This post allowed me to fix for free!!!!!!
Thanks for the detailed information regarding the Trunk latch failure, I fixed it following the procedure described in your tutorial. An additional recommendation is that in case you replace the rivets by bolts you need to add a pressure washer.
Thanks. I have just repaired my trunk latch. My repair went a little further though. The plunger in the white box (the solenoid?) would not retract. I found that tapping it firmly on the ground would cause it to retract, but it would not extend afterwards.
I opened the white box. Inside is a motor, a gear, a spring and a retractable plunger. The idea is that to unlock the latch motor activates and extends the plunger and tensions the spring. When the motor stops the spring retracts and pulls the plunger back in. It turns out the spring had lost its spring. I removed it and bent it a bit (about 45 degrees, 1cm from the end). I then removed the plunger and put it against the spring. Rotated it about 5-10 times and carefully put the assembly back in the white housing. Reassembled and it works like a charm.
As an aside, I neither riveted nor bolted the assembly back together. I only drilled out the minimum to allow me to open the latch unit and when reassembled, with the torx screws in place, the unit is rock solid. I also left the manual release cable attached through out the whole process.
Best of luck to anyone else performing this task,
cheers
-- Phil
I opened the white box. Inside is a motor, a gear, a spring and a retractable plunger. The idea is that to unlock the latch motor activates and extends the plunger and tensions the spring. When the motor stops the spring retracts and pulls the plunger back in. It turns out the spring had lost its spring. I removed it and bent it a bit (about 45 degrees, 1cm from the end). I then removed the plunger and put it against the spring. Rotated it about 5-10 times and carefully put the assembly back in the white housing. Reassembled and it works like a charm.
As an aside, I neither riveted nor bolted the assembly back together. I only drilled out the minimum to allow me to open the latch unit and when reassembled, with the torx screws in place, the unit is rock solid. I also left the manual release cable attached through out the whole process.
Best of luck to anyone else performing this task,
cheers
-- Phil
- paul1149
- Posts: 51
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- Year and Model: 2001 s60
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coflynn,
You totally rock, guy. This thing had me stymied, and I STILL don't understand the electronics going to the trunk lid. But I took it apart, it snapped back just as in your case, I put it back together and BINGO. You are absolutely top-shelf for sharing this info. Saved me from a torturous electrical wild goose chase. I intend on bolting the two halves together rather than messing with rivets.
Blessings on you, man.
Paul
You totally rock, guy. This thing had me stymied, and I STILL don't understand the electronics going to the trunk lid. But I took it apart, it snapped back just as in your case, I put it back together and BINGO. You are absolutely top-shelf for sharing this info. Saved me from a torturous electrical wild goose chase. I intend on bolting the two halves together rather than messing with rivets.
Blessings on you, man.
Paul
- Give, and it will be given to you. Good measure, pressed down, shaken together, running over, will be put into your lap. For with the measure you use it will be measured back to you.” -Luke 6:38
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Mtrobertson2
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 29 December 2013
- Year and Model: 2004 s60
- Location: California
These post were helpful in guiding me to solve the problem of why the trunk would not lock. The hints of the piston potentially being stuck open, the drilling of the rivets to get to the piston and even the one post that claimed he repaired the problem while keeping the emergency cable intact. The one bit of advice that would have been the best of all is to first and foremost CHECK THE EMERGENCY CABLE TO BE CERTAIN IT WAS NOT PULLED BY A CURIOUS 11 YEAR OLD KID AND SiMPLY WAS STUCK, BINDING THE LATCH TO STAY OPEN.
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Mikeyp5000
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 9 June 2012
- Year and Model: 2001 Volvo S60 2.5T
- Location: Salem, OR
Before you disassemble anything. Open the deck lid and with a light fist hit the area around latch. This could release the solenoid and save you any further work!
I was able to fix my latch today using this post. Instead of disassembling the latch by drilling the rivets etc, I just removed it and lightly tapped the latch with a hammer around the area of the solenoid (the white plastic assembly). At which point I heard the solenoid retract. Easy peezey!!
I was able to fix my latch today using this post. Instead of disassembling the latch by drilling the rivets etc, I just removed it and lightly tapped the latch with a hammer around the area of the solenoid (the white plastic assembly). At which point I heard the solenoid retract. Easy peezey!!
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Senor Mano
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 18 May 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 S60, 2011 XC60
- Location: California
colfynn: Thank you for this thread ...
I'd replaced the wiring harness without success for an intermittent "trunk open" issue that snowballed into the alarm going off and a dead battery. Following your guide I poked around inside and discovered that my problem was with the micro switch inside the latch assembly. Too bad I can't find THAT as a replacement. I was able to short the switch so that it always reports trunk closed.
And at least I know that it's not the $500+ control module!
I'd replaced the wiring harness without success for an intermittent "trunk open" issue that snowballed into the alarm going off and a dead battery. Following your guide I poked around inside and discovered that my problem was with the micro switch inside the latch assembly. Too bad I can't find THAT as a replacement. I was able to short the switch so that it always reports trunk closed.
And at least I know that it's not the $500+ control module!
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