Prop shaft and Haldex service '07 XC70

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2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
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erikv11
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Prop shaft and Haldex service '07 XC70

Post by erikv11 »

Backstory: This wagon is new to me as of last week, has 170k miles. AWD is not working: in gear the prop shaft spins with the fronts but the rears do not, no angle gear noise, no CEL or dash message but stored code DEM-0006. Checked the Haldex pump with 12V and it does not respond.

Note: at 65k miles which was 8 years ago, the dealer service record says "Haldex rear DEM sensor and Haldex oil replaced, performed DEM upgrade for DEM007 code."

Here are some questions I have:

(1) I am hoping this is just a dead pump. Sound reasonable? Pump, fluid and filter are on the way from FCP.

(2) When I removed the AOC flange/damper, a little fluid leaked out. See pic 3. Is this normal to leak some fluid even before the pump is pulled?

(3) While everything is apart, should I check anything on the DEM at this time, or is it safe to leave that alone, then worry about checking it only later if there are still problems when everything is back together? I'll try to check it for 12V at startup, maybe I can better access those pins now with the damper off.

(4) See pics 5-6-7-8-9 of prop shaft, is there anything to check or service while I have it out? The CV's appear intact and seem to rotate well in both directions, although the rear seems slightly stiffer. The bearing rotates smoothly.
pic 1 gratuitous shot of "prop shaft is out!"
pic 1 gratuitous shot of "prop shaft is out!"
pic 2 another gratuitous shot of "prop shaft is out!"
pic 2 another gratuitous shot of "prop shaft is out!"
pic 3 leaking pump fluid when flange/damper removed, is this normal?
pic 3 leaking pump fluid when flange/damper removed, is this normal?
pic 4 prop shaft, front CV
pic 4 prop shaft, front CV
pic 5 prop shaft, forward side of center bearing etc
pic 5 prop shaft, forward side of center bearing etc
pic 6 prop shaft, U joint 1
pic 6 prop shaft, U joint 1
pic 7 prop shaft, U joint 2
pic 7 prop shaft, U joint 2
pic 8 prop shaft, aft side of center bearing etc
pic 8 prop shaft, aft side of center bearing etc
pic 9 prop shaft, rear CV
pic 9 prop shaft, rear CV
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Change the pump if it’s bad, I used a dorman and it seems to work fine. I didn’t have any luck trying to rebuild my original pump so gave up on that. You may have disturbed the haldex lip seal when you pulled your flange out, wouldn’t hurt to replace that for 10 bucks, I can send you the part number tomorrow. Change the fluid and filter. Not a bad idea and pretty easy to drop the bevelgear and change the fluid with the shaft out. Then you can inspect the bevelgear at that time.
Bevelgear seems fine, check for looseness or runout on the output shaft and condition of input shaft splines and collar sleeve splines now. How many miles on it?
I would dissasenble the prop shaft cv’s and regrease them now too, the front one will have stiffened up and cooked the original grease. Not much to go wrong with the centre bearing.
I just resurrected my AWD thIs summer. It’s a decent job and well worth the effort. I see you live in Iowa, I expect the roads get slippery around this time!
Removing the prop shaft is the hardest part of this job so the worst is behind you!
Last edited by Blacklab467 on Thu Dec 24, 2020 6:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

greffel
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Post by greffel »

@Blacklab467 guided med doing this service procedure :)

To change the lip seal I invested in a small windscreen wiper 2 arm puller to get the seal out.
When you pull the flange it should leak some oil.
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I forgot to add that you will lose some fluid when the flange is pulled, you may elect to not change the seal behind the flange, yours looks pretty clean and dry and it doesn't hold any pressure. Might be better off to not disturb it.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

You guys are great thanks! OK I will leave the seal, partly because the other parts already shipped and I don't want to wait for it. But if it's not a problem area and especially since you pointed out it doesn't hold pressure I think I will leave it alone.

The bevel gear I have been through that on my S60 R so I know the routine. I ended up swapping in a used one for that car. On this car the XC70 I was planning to change the oil but but by suction not by removing it. We'll see if I get inspired, Blacklab467 you are making good points about the BG so maybe this is a good time to pull inspect the collar. The bevel gear and collar is from the factory so it has 170k (gulp).

I haven't looked yet, it's too cold today at 11 outside but but any guidance on how do you disassemble the CV joints in the propshaft?
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

The flange seal should be fine.
It should only take you an hour to get the BG out and then you can really get all the fluid out and it's nice to know the condition of the splines with a new car.
As for the CV's, take a flathead screwdriver and pop the tin cap off the end, you may elect to not fully disassemble them, probably best that you don't. I was able to clean the old grease out with varsol and a brush although it took awhile. Buy a tube of high quality CV joint grease and repack them well. I tried to spray some lube into the bearing but don't really think you can get any in there. Don't try to clean the bearing or support......you'll only introduce more dirt than you'll remove.
Send a picture of the car, I've always liked the black on black ones!
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Thanks for the info on the CV joints I'll give that a go next.
Blacklab467 wrote: Thu Dec 24, 2020 9:13 am ... Send a picture of the car, I've always liked the black on black ones!
Couple pics of the car here now: viewtopic.php?p=563569#p563569
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

XC70Rider
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Post by XC70Rider »

Congrats on getting the driveshaft out of that rusted AOC! I had no luck forcing mine out with M8 bolts so I cut the AOC in half and threw on a new one for $300. I replaced both CV joints on the driveshaft. I got high quality CV joints from Colorado Driveshafts for $75 each. They are identical for both front and rear. Since I had the clutch off I decided to replace the seal cause it cost only $10 from FCPEURO.

Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

That's a beautiful car! It looks just like mine minus the hail damage. I would prefer the black interior but have two yellow labs and am better suited to my tan interior. Keep us up to date on how the AWD is coming!
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

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Post by abscate »

Blacklab467 wrote: Fri Dec 25, 2020 7:55 pm That's a beautiful car! It looks just like mine minus the hail damage. I would prefer the black interior but have two yellow labs and am better suited to my tan interior. Keep us up to date on how the AWD is coming!
Choosing car interior to fit the dogs.....👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼, there is a man with the priorities right
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