2001 V70XC - Rear shock bushing separating Topic is solved

[xHeart]

The spring compressor is lightening fast in comparison.
The old spring looks beat yet felt fine at 198,000 miles, but the shocks are done.

MVS_01V70XC_0999.jpg (135.64 KiB) Viewed 979 times

[xHeart]

Assembled the first rear strut and maneuvered it back in. But, placing shock back over the control arm sleeve feels daunting even with control arm being strapped -- taking a break.

This spring compressor is best, safe and gentle on DIYer.

MVS_01V70XC_1002.jpg (162.21 KiB) Viewed 964 times

[- Pete -]

Yep, it is a little puckering the first time you go to get the lower shock mount back into position. With a come-ahh-long scissoring the 2 control arms down, I typically get the hole in the shock lined up with the peg on the control arm, then you sorta have to manhandle it & even beat it onto the peg with a rubber mallet or dead blow. It’ll go, it has to.

[xHeart]

Yep, it is a little puckering the first time you go to get the lower shock mount back into position. With a come-ahh-long scissoring the 2 control arms down, I typically get the hole in the shock lined up with the peg on the control arm, then you sorta have to manhandle it & even beat it onto the peg with a rubber mallet or dead blow. It’ll go, it has to.

I found following post from Goldshcmist using scissor jack. Would placing scissor jack on tie rod cause the tie rod to bow a little when lifting, causing alignment issues?

I actually used the jack that came with my car to force the rear wheels down enough so that I could get the rear shocks back on their studs. See picture of rear passenger side.

[vtl]

I remove the front stay and strut installation requires very little scissoring, or just pushing on the wheel hub with your leg/weight. Never had to ratchet the arms.

Stay can be installed back very easily by jacking up the hub until the holes align.

Also IPD-style rear toe rods are must have for good rear toe alignment, IMO.

[- Pete -]

Those thin black stay arms aren’t very strong. They don’t cost much, but personally, I wouldn’t put a scissor jack there.
I think VTL may be talking about the trailing arm. That’s good to know, if so. The instructions in ViDA show to use a large ratchet strap or come-ahh-long to pull both arms towards the floor.

[xHeart]

I remove the front stay and strut installation requires very little scissoring, or just pushing on the wheel hub with your leg/weight. Never had to ratchet the arms.

Those thin black stay arms aren’t very strong. They don’t cost much, but personally, I wouldn’t put a scissor jack there.
I think VTL may be talking about the trailing arm. That’s good to know, if so. The instructions in ViDA show to use a large ratchet strap or come-ahh-long to pull both arms towards the floor.

Indeed, good to know vtl!
Took this pix after strut leans and rests, misses the goal.
Is this the "S" like arm below the brake+abs line, if so, unscrew both ends and remove completely?

MVS_01V70XC_1003.jpg (145.9 KiB) Viewed 977 times

[- Pete -]

Yep, 2 bolts come out, nuts are part of the weldment so no need to counterhold them, then the trailing arm comes off. As VTL pointed out, you’ll need to use your jack under the knuckle/control arm to adjust height to line your holes back up.

[vtl]

VIDA calls this thing "a stay". I can't judge if that is a correct Swedish-English translation.

BTW, jack needs to be positioned along the car, not perpendicular. Handle towards engine.

[xHeart]

BTW, jack needs to be positioned along the car, not perpendicular. Handle towards engine.

The rear of the car is sitting on jack-stand. I'm imaging that removing "stay" will lower the control arm, thus, relatively not perfectly, align the mounting point to the shock's donut. Once the shock is mounted, I'll place a bottle-jack under the knuckle and raise the assembly so the "stay" to align back to its mounts... unless you say otherwise.