2000 V70R - Now it begins -Rear AWD sub-frame replacement

[scot850]

Time for a quick update.

Trying to get motivated after so long to get this car prep completed so I will be ready when the back-order parts ever show up. Good news is Tasca have notified me the parts have shipped from Sweden, so with some luck I may see them in the next couple of weeks, so in terms of re-build, I should have everything I need to complete this job, either new or re-furbished.

The main things I have left to do are clean and paint the rear drive axles/hub and brake dust shield assemblies and muffler system and Nivomats. The final part is to go under the car and de-rust and paint any rust I can find while it is accessible. There is a surprising amount on all the welds above the fuel tank, but I'll take the opportunity to do from the rear of the rear passenger foot-wells all the way back to the rear bumper. It is not really bad, but it needs to be done. I'll try to remember to take pictures.

I must try to remember to start a list of obsolete parts for this car, as it will affect this model and year, but may also affect 98-00 AWD models of all variants. Latest one is the rear brake rotor dust-shields and the horizontal exhaust manifold heat shield.

I got a call from the powder coaters today to say the remaining parts were ready for collection. Again, as the price was fixed I took the opportunity to do more than I needed as I was paying for it anyway.
I accepted that some of the parts will never look perfect due to the heavy rust some had, but they have turned out better than hoped:

RH jacking point and Evap canister mounting

Rear stay bar

These are a few examples of the parts, but they include the rear coil springs, upper control arms, rear bumper brackets and more.

I also took a drop in the temperature to run down to a D-I-Y sand-blasting facility to clean up the rear lower control arms and the sub-frame (all aluminum) and also clean up the muffler system (OE is obsolete) for painting, as well as the rear hub assemblies. I used fine glass beads and the parts came up really well. Couldn't get rid of all the marks, but hugely better and nice and clean to work with.

When I got the chance, I clear coated the aluminum parts with 3 coats of enamel clear coat. The parts are not coated when new, but I hope that this may reduce the rate of the corrosion re-occurring in the sub-frame and also act as a barrier. Also stops my grubby fingers leaving prints all over!

Rear sub-frame top plate

This shows the upper top plate for the rear sub-frame after cleaning and coating. Noticed that one end is heavily pitted but not sure why other than it is under the evap can bracket.

One down-side of the blasting, was that I discovered small holes at the back bottom of the LH muffler. There was a request from a member recently looking for advice on what type of after-market muffler to use. This shows why NOT to use T409 'Stainless' steel. This muffler is about 4 years old and fitted by a PO. I would only use T304 Stainless. Had a custom system done in Scotland 20 years ago for a car, and after 4 years it was still like new. I spoke to a local muffler shop to see if it could be patched, but they said the material was too thin and would blow out when they try to weld. Suggested filling for now with muffler cement and painting. They will have a look at the system when the car is running again and quote to do one in T304. This is a Eurosport system and these are around $700 US plus shipping. All the AWD systems out there are made in T409. The muffler shop said it would be cheaper than that!

Muffler holes T409 stainless

Well back to the grind. Let me know if anyone needs more info or pictures of anything specific.

Neil.

[abscate]

Definitely patch that with furnace cement. You'll get 5 years and enough lift on the stock market to get your SS one in better alloy.
P

[scot850]

When you say furnace cement, where would yo get that? I have muffler repair cement, is that no good or at least not as good?

Thanks,

Neil.

[scot850]

Took the advice and tried the furnace cement. Appears to work well and after rubbing down and painting you would be hard pressed to know it was there.

Getting closer to the re-assembly stage I hope. I'm trying to tidy up the larger pieces that can't easily be powder coated. Axles are rubbed down primed and painted (2 coats rust-buster primer and gloss black top coat). The hubs were carefully blasted last week along with the attached back plates. They were painted with primer and a matt enamel by brush. The enamel has a level of elastic to the paint so hopefully will be more flexible to take the winters and summers in Canada. Nivomats are in primer. With a bit of luck all I have left to de-rust/paint are the IPD rear anti-sway bar and the rear differential unit. I hope to have that done by Wednesday. Then all that remains to do is to remove all the accumulated junk out from under the car to allow access to de-rust and paint the underside from the rear passenger foot-well back.

Can't make up my mind whether or not to pull the rear bumper now or later to replace the rear mount I have had powder coated to replace the rusty original, or wait until finances allow to have the rear bumper re-painted for many scrapes and scratches by PO's and careless drivers. What this space!

I'm told all the remaining parts should be shipped later this week coming (next few days). They are waiting for the rear Nivomat tool I have ordered. Thought it was worthwhile having is I plan to spend time at PnP pulling rear axles. I already have the one for the front struts.

I am finally looking forward to actually starting re-assembly, and that can start as soon as the rear diff has been painted. It has been a long time coming and I now feel re-motivated to get his finished! Even the local dealer parts and workshop staff are asking when it will be completed! Quite the following.

I can also pull the center console and replace the other parking brake cable. The old one works but I really don't want to have to tackle this again in about 6 months or whenever it finally seizes! The underside of the car is so accessible it would be crazy not to do it now.

If the parts are any further delayed, I may try to swap out the front ant-sway bar bushes with the Energy Suspension greasible bushes to try to eliminate the problems of the IPD versions and their groaning. If I really get very bored, I'll rub down and paint the spare set of 'R' Nivomats I have as well as a front Anti-sway bar. Maybe even the pair of V70XC Nivomats I pulled for someone who didn't come back to me on them may get painted and sold as no good to me!

I received a package from a long distance away on Friday containing 6 AWD parking brake clips. 6 of the last 17 Volvo could find around the world. Part is now obsolete and another to add to the fast growing pile of dis-continued parts for P80's and particularly AWD versions! Still looking into the 1955-1964 Chevy part as an option, (a little too wide but may be able to be squeezed down to fit) and I have still to identify a possible Dodge part that may also be an option from 80's vehicles.

I also have a pile of parts arriving from Sweden from a great company that deals with NOS stock for BMW, Volvo and a few others. Their Volvo parts are getting low for P80 stuff, but they are hoping to have more in the Fall.

Again, any questions or requests for info let me know.

Neil.

[scot850]

Well, enthusiasm is waning again. Just never seem to get to the point of starting re-assembly. Too much is going on just now to spend a lot of time on the car. I still have to do the top coats of paint on the rear diff. It has 2 coats of Rust Check Primer, and I still have 2 coats of Gray Enamel to do, but have to re-mask the surface. I had planned to use fine glass beads on the end cover of the diff to clean it before applying the top coats in case of removing any of the primer where the casings meet. I did at least get some fine glass beads at the end of this week, but then the weather interrupted play. Yes, we had snow yesterday!! Sitting outside in 5C with a wind-chill and rain/snow did not appeal to me. Clearly going soft!

Rear diff in primer

Rear sub-frame attachment point

I did however find my last ordered parts are on their way, but naturally have been held up in Canada Customs over the long-weekend.

I decided to at long last tackle the rust blisters under the car, and got the rotary wire brush onto it, then treated with rust check killer solution. After washing the area down, and then wiping down with paint thinners/prep, I have now just completed 2 coats of Rust Check rust inhibiting primer. Not perfect, but the areas that needed it most have been well covered. Tomorrow I will give some areas of high impact a layer of anti-chip, followed by 2 coats of a close match of paint, and 2 coats of clear coat sealer. That only covers the area above the fuel tank and back to the turrets for the shocks, but that was the worst affected. With a bit of luck (how many times have I said that!) I may completed the underside by the end of next week, and then can look at tackling the re-assembly perhaps. Fuel and emissions system first, then rear suspension.

Rust behind passenger rear foot well

I have looked at how to remove the rear bumper assembly now that one of the 2 holding bolts sheared off near the head. I tried to bend the lower end of the mount on that side, and it bent up way too easily, showing changing it is none too soon. The replacement mounts have been powder coated so hopefully will be more durable.

2 days at PnP did slow progress, but a 2 day advance 50% off sale beaconed! Even took my son on the 2nd day to help dis-assemble a whole rear sub-frame, rear diff and VC unit. This is the first rear sub-frame I have encountered in a Calgary PnP in over 18 months that wasn't a moth eaten as the one I pulled. In fact it is in remarkable condition, which makes me think the car is from outside the city or from out west. I paid only $40 CDN ($30 US) for the whole sub-frame as opposed to the $650 from a specialist Volvo breaker out west. The difference is my labour is free. The VC unit was $15 and diff was $40. Don't need them (I have 2 other VC units for this car and one for a 98), but at these prices it is worth stashing for the future. Also got yet more lower and upper control arms at $12.50 each.

Loads of other parts also got pulled as I hate to see cars getting crushed with parts I know are expensive or are now rare or obsolete.

So, need to stay positive and get the last of the painting done, and hopefully the IPD rear anti-sway bar will be back from powder coating and the last parts will be hear in the next week or so.

Not sure if I mentioned, but my daughter had a graphic artist friend duplicate the Nivomat labels for me so I can stick replacement labels onto the now painted units to go back on. Strangely the pair I pulled as spares from another 'R' have different labels, so she had those copied too.

I plan to try coating the units with some 3M clear coat to try to stave off the nasty stuff that goes on out roads in winter. It will either be a glorious success, or a recipe for causing them to rust faster. At least I have the spare set.......!

Neil.

[FLXC90]

Awesome progress Neil, love the attention to detail(Nivo labels). What are the brake cable clips made of? quick rusting metal? My daughter is boasting about her 3-d printing skills, just makes me wonder?

[scot850]

Sad as it sounds, I just happen to have some brand new last of their king parking brake clips beside my computer.

Parking brake clip (1)

Parking brake clip (2)

Parking brake clip (3)

Not great pictures but you should get the idea.

These clips were used on previous generations of RWD Volvos if I recall, so to allow the part to be obsoleted is almost criminal. And yes, they do rust quickly. I plan to coat them with some clear coat before or after installation to try to prolong their life

I tried contacting a company in Florida that either makes or has made clips for 55-64 Chevs that look similar, but they did not respond. Some newer Dodges also used something like this, but not had time to research further.

Not sure if 3-D printing would work, but as I know little about it, but as an engineer, I'm not sure if the printing process can give a level of 'spring' to the metal that it requires. Interesting thought though!

Thanks for the encouragement.

Neil.

[RussB]

Great thread, Neil. I am impressed with your tenacity and attention to detail.

I titled my thread "open the money pit" but you have earned that. We deal with that same liquid de-icer here in southern New England and feel for you regarding all the rusted parts and fasteners

[scot850]

I sympathise with anyone that has to deal with that nasty stuff. Even the guys that pour concrete driveways here will no longer warrant they concrete damage caused by that stuff. It should be illegal to put the stuff down. Folks should learn to drive in the snow!

Didn't get as much done today as I ended up tackling the removal of the rear bumper to swap out the very crusty bumper mount brackets as the bolt had sheared off in one. I posted a 'How-to' earlier today having figured out (with some pointers) how to do it without permanently damaging anything other than parts that had to be.

When I finally got back to painting the underside as planned, typically I ran out of paintable stone guard, and of course being a holiday was out of luck getting more. Hopefully I can get more tomorrow and have it coated early. Stuff takes a minimum of 6 hours to sure prior to painting over it. The top coats and clear coat can be done quickly (no perfection required as won't be seen). If I can keep this going the underside should be ready to go by the weekend as now with the bumper out of the way and the rear heat-shields, the area around the spare wheel well and up to the rear of the car appears to have much less surface rust, so will only need spot repairs. Also need to complete the top coats on the rear diff.

Getting there, but not as quickly as hoped.

Appreciate the feedback and encouragement. Really helps with the motivation!

Neil.

[scot850]

Just to prove that I am still making progress I finished part of the cleaning, de-rusting and painting of the underside of the car from just behind the rear passenger foot well and the area as far back as the frame mounting point for the sub-frame. This area should now provide (hopefully) another 15 years of durability against the roads up here. The car is now significantly better protected that it was new.

After using a rotary wire brush on a drill to remove the rust flakes down to metal, I treated the bare areas of metal to a rust killer solution. Once that had dried, I primer'd the whole area in 2-3 coats of a rust killing and prevention primer. Next day, saw 1-2 coats of anti-chip where the floor is exposed to damage from stones. Next day (today) has seen 2-3 coats of rattle can paint, followed by 2-3 coats of clear coat.

Under floor area behind rear foot wells

Shiny!!

Rear jacking point mounting area

Rear AWD jacking point (removed) area and the area for the front mount for the RH stay rod. The area for the stay rod was masked so the anti-ship does not stop the mounting seating well or moving.

Nivomat tower

Nivomat tower no cleaned and painted. Actually not much rust here.

Rear Sub-frame mounting area on frame rail

Hard to believe that I one thought this area may not be repairable. Actually it cleaned up to nice shiny metal from this:

Frame rail after sub-frame removed

It is hard to believe this is the same car.

The paintwork may be average, but it is more than good enough for an area that won't be seen.

Tomorrow I will tackle the area from the front of the spare wheel well to the back bumper mounts. I have already cleared about 50% removing the peeling poorly applied undercoat that is on areas that were already covered from the factory?!

Hopefully, by the end of the weekend it will be finished and ready for assembly to start.

First of the last 2 packages from Tasca arrived today with the back-order parts that were ordered mid-June! Now waiting for the warranty replacement Ejector pump that was damaged shipping from Tasca. It finally cleared Canada customs after 3 days! Should be here by Friday they claim.

I can now take the 2 powder coated cross stay bars to get the bushes fitted in readiness for use. I hope these will return about the same time as the IPD anti-sway bar returns from powder coating to get the new bushes fitted.

On a separate note, thanks to a heads up from blockpartie, I managed to not glass bead the rear aluminum housing of the rear diff. He warned there is a small vent hole at the top of the casing that beads could enter. I will block it off with a panel pin nail first. Who knew it was there?! Could it be the reason the rear diff seals on AWD P80's blow out as this gets blocked?

Rear AWD P80 diff casing.

Vent hole in rear diff casing

Amazing the knowledge that is out there to prevent the un-wary screwing up too badly!

Thanks again for the help and support folks!!

Neil.