2000 V70R - AWD Rear Sub-frame replacement. Finished?

[scot850]

Well a quick update, as to what has happened and to close out (hopefully) the thread/blog below:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=69287

This covered the major pain I had to endure during the replacement for the corroded/crack sub-frame in my 2000 V70R. 9 months of severe pain, huge expense and the knowledge that it is un-likely the car from hell would let me be done with it, even for a few days. The blog was to remind me of issues as they arose for a future how-to.

Having finally completed the installation of the last bolts, I primed the fuel system, removed the 2 fuses from the fuel system (not the 1 as in the hand book and in different slots), the car started after a bit of cranking, ran rough for a while (remember all fuel lines were replaced and no fuel in the system), before idling for a while.

First bite, the heating fan wasn't running and A/C lights were flashing. After 9 months of standing the Resistor pack decided to fail. Normally not a big issue, but as the original owner had fitted a multi C/D changer in the glove box, it takes longer to remove and replace than the resistor pack. Fortunately I have many spares.

With that up and running, I booked the car in with Volvo dealer for a 4-wheel alignment and check over of my work. Also had them do a mechanical and safety inspection to satisfy the insurance company.

They were mightily impressed, particularly the service foreman (with Volvo since 1975!). Said it made him happy to see and drive a 'New-old' Volvo. Naturally there had to be a few buts.....! He did say the car looked better than new (at the rear at least!).

1) I had left the cardboard backings on the new rear Volvo brake pads. Apparently these are supposed to be removed to allow the pads to 'stick' to the caliper and piston. I believe it is to stop brake squeal caused by the pads being loose and dragging against the rotor.

2) Longer travel in the brake peddle than I like. They suggest I book the car back in and they bleed the brakes again.

3) Oh, the front suspension is still groaning, in-spite of new anti-sway bar bushes and being re-greased (for the 5th time!!).

4) The clamp for the muffler pipe join above the rear axle on LH side was too close to the sub-frame. Strange as this was not the case when assembled?? Seems the muffler system had moved. Of course it has, fricking car!! I did say I hate this car!!!!!!!

Over the weekend I jacked the dam car back up on stands, removed the wheels (Again), re-greased the front anti-sway bushes using the grease nipples it has, and replaced the end (so-called) IPD HD end links with Mayle HD links.

Re-positioned the rear muffler clamp and cut the 'U'-bolt threads shorter to give more clearance. Muffler has now moved to the RH side of the cut outs on both sides. What the heck? Booking it into a muffler shop to sort and get a quote for a custom Stainless T304 system to replace the crappy T407 (so-called) stainless system from Eurosport.

Bled the brakes again, and ejected a small amount of air from RH front caliper and peddle is now firm again. Will run and monitor.

Re-fitted the wheels, dropped the car back down, and realised I had forgotten about the rear brake pad issue. I know it is not critical (there is no mention of the cardboard having to be remove in any place). Now deciding if I can be bothered to jack the car back up again and do this or leave until spring and do it when the winter tires come off.

Still to drive the car to see if any of the work has improved it, but had to replace the antenna ring on my son's 06 XC70. Will try it tomorrow perhaps or maybe when hell freezes over?!

Once I have a bit more time (actually a lot more time) I will start a how too, highlighting difficulties, including obsolete parts and possible options.

Neil.

[FLXC90]

Neil, thanks, you are an inspiration to more than you know. You persevere against huge road blocks, and show us how to find parts or methods to fix our cars. The scope of your project is ambitious, but your car was/is a holy grail model, It helps me keep things in perspective working on my money pit T6 AWD XC90, and my daily beater S70. With the amount of content from the blog, the how-to will be awesome. There are a lot of AWD, XC and V/R guys who you just gave a fighting chance to.

[Bluevanacd2005]

Great job! You have come a long way, don't give up now!

All these little things should be easy compared to what you have done so far. I know the feeling of wanting it to be overand driveable again though!

You are indeed an inspiration, keep up the good work!

Spenser

[scot850]

Thanks guys, your replies are much appreciated. Still hate this car though!! Can't afford to sell it now. The boss says I will be buried in it (and that may be soon if I spend more on it!). Did I mention I have just received new Bosch O2 sensors from Rock Auto. Bought them now before the Canadian $ drops lower than 72c US. Rock Auto price was the same in CDN$ as everyone else is selling in US$!

All the folk on here that gave advice and encouragement are much appreciated by me.

Regards and Happy Holidays to you all (trying to be politically correct!).

Neil.

[E Showell]

Neil. Is. A. Volvo. God.

Surely there is a place reserved for him in Valhalla after this epic.

[jcdillin]

Your info actually makes me want to tackle dropping my rear subframe!

I'm sure you'll get the last few things ironed out without too much trouble.

[mecheng]

Once you invest that much time into a car, you must keep it for life. Congrats on the project, must feel bitter sweet.

[FLXC90]

Your info actually makes me want to tackle dropping my rear subframe!

I had you in mind for my first response

Once you invest that much time into a car, you must keep it for life. Congrats on the project, must feel bitter sweet.

Also, once that investment is made, do you look at agreed value insurance from a specialty company like Hagerty's or Grundy?

[E Showell]

I'd say yes if they write in Canada.