1999 V70T5M56 power steering rack swap 8251305

[abscate]

Starting a thread on the power steering rack. I have two projects in hands I bought one reman rack from Detroit Axle and one from United a OEM each one cost $180

There are some differences, the Detroit didn’t come with the seated in bolts for mounting so you will have to buy dome good quality hardware to mount that

Two things not to ship back with core

The heat shield needs to be removed and swapped, one Torx T25 bolt

The upper mount bracket needs to be swapped over, 14mm hex and counter hold ( fact check). This is the one that has a bolt upinto the right engine mount ( towards rear of car)

This is in fact the lower subframe mount bolt

All of these take m10 15 mm hex lock nuts, single use ?

I hung the engine on the cross brace , removed the front engine mount bolts (2M8/ 14mm hex) , removed the front torque mount nuts and cleared the rod from the subframe, then removed the rear bolts/ plates, loosened the front about 1cm drop. This gives about 20 cm drop if the subframe at the rear

I had trouble getting the flares off. The supply side is a steel fitting which came off easily, the return side is thin soft alloy and rounded off badly after turning about one turn

Flare fitting sizes on the pipes

Ps supply
Ps return

Flare type


Root cause of failure. The boot on the LHS split, which I didn’t catch, and the rack corroded, this taking out the seal on the rack on that side.

[850oldschool]

I've got to do this soon. I'm very curious about the Detroit axle rack. They're dirt cheap and they claim to have sold hundreds of them on ebay.

[abscate]

Four hours yesterday to move the new steering rack in
Swapped heat shield after cleaning
Attached TRW tie rod ends , matched thread count, new lock nuts
Moved center bolt mount over , left bolts loose per Alldata

Fed rack in from right, lined up mount bolts
Attached lower return line flare first, 19mm hex
Then attached upper line, 17 mm hex and crows foot

Raised subframe and firmed new sub frame bolts

Dropped steering coupler in from inside cab8n. Used the same chisel trick to split the metal block and tapped the coupler down from in cabin with mallet, installed new lock screw

Routed lines for clips

Still open
Final torques on all screws
Check flare fittings
Lock screw on coupling
Tie rod ends

[S60UT]

Looking fresh and nice technique on the steering coupler attachment. I should have went that route and I fought that sucker for quite sometime.

[abscate]

If I ghosted someone on that, let me know. That came to be after looking at that, but it might have been inspired here.

Works for both removal and install.

[scot850]

Shiny!!

Neil.

[foggydogg]

Progress measured by yards instead of inches, like my projects. No clue what that is in metric.
There is absolutely no way to get a flare-nut wrench on those lines in situ.

[abscate]

Progress measured by yards instead of inches, like my projects. No clue what that is in metric.
There is absolutely no way to get a flare-nut wrench on those lines in situ.

Unless its an Orange County CA car where rust is when the black bolt paint has faded from its Swedish factory.

Drop subframe, protect stuff ,blast them with heat, and remember if you have to cut one, the return line is 1/3 the price of the pressure line, $300 vs $100

Gone are the days when Ill spend4 hours fighting a part. Quick check of price and stock and out comes the grinder and off comes the part - to be thrown into the Metal Bin and turned into a Kia

[FireFox31]

I assumed you'd take the rack off the manual V70 I donated. It is Volvo OEM, replaced in 2015 or so. That's the most valuable part of that car.

[abscate]

Not yet. Still in a snow bank and still undecided. We do have a donor engine need, though