I recently bought a 98 V70 R AWD, with about 97K miles, and it bounces a bit to much for comfort and leans too much on curves.
My mechanic says that it really needs the struts replacing. The two ball-park estimates I have had so far are between $700+ and $1000+, which are more than I want to pay right now.
Is there any good alternative, to tighten the ride up?
I obviously don't want to do anything that is less than safe or not good in the long-term; but I would be glad to find a way to postpone a $1000 expenditure for a while.
I can live with the bounce, but I would obviously prefer it to hold much better. I previously drove a '95 850Turbo for ten years, and it held much better at 180k miles: I was hoping the '98 R would be even better, so a little disappointed in this aspect.
(I am probably not up to any major projects with my own hands, but I have a very helpful independent mechanic, who is usually open to suggestions.)
Many thanks for any ideas.
Mark
Alternative to new Volvo struts on 98 V70 R AWD?
Alternative to new Volvo struts on 98 V70 R AWD?
-Mark
2004 XC90 T6 AWD
1998 V70R AWD
2007 XC70
previous:
1995 850Turbo wagon
2007 XC90 AWD
2004 XC90 T6 AWD
1998 V70R AWD
2007 XC70
previous:
1995 850Turbo wagon
2007 XC90 AWD
-
JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
Are they nuts?
I pay about $300 to re-do an entire front end.
On an R, I like Koni yellows the best. As you can only do the front, they are closer to OEM yet MUCH better feel and steering response plus they are adjustable.
Yes these are the most expensive strut but if you plan to keep it a few years, well worth it.
i do not like any Bilstein, they don't match up well to the rear nivomats.
If you don't want to spring for Konis, go with new OEM (Sachs) struts.
To reduce the lean you MUST go with IPD sway bars and HD end links.
The above combo is AWESOME on Gen 1 R's.
Me and my wife's 2000's (V70R) are both set up this way, it make one nice car to drive!
I pay about $300 to re-do an entire front end.
On an R, I like Koni yellows the best. As you can only do the front, they are closer to OEM yet MUCH better feel and steering response plus they are adjustable.
Yes these are the most expensive strut but if you plan to keep it a few years, well worth it.
i do not like any Bilstein, they don't match up well to the rear nivomats.
If you don't want to spring for Konis, go with new OEM (Sachs) struts.
To reduce the lean you MUST go with IPD sway bars and HD end links.
The above combo is AWESOME on Gen 1 R's.
Me and my wife's 2000's (V70R) are both set up this way, it make one nice car to drive!
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
JRL, many thanks for that insight and suggestions.
Could I just make sure I understand a couple of things correctly?
You suggest Koni yellows - do I need to replace the whole shock/strut assembly, or can I just do the struts, if the shocks are still ok? Could I just redo the struts now, and upgrade the shocks later?
You say I can only do the front end - does that mean that there is no point in replacing the rear end, or that it is not possible?
Do I understand correctly that $300 would be a reasonable price to solve the problem, meaning both parts and labour? This would presumably be replacing the struts only, and front end only, yes?
Thank you again,
Mark
Could I just make sure I understand a couple of things correctly?
You suggest Koni yellows - do I need to replace the whole shock/strut assembly, or can I just do the struts, if the shocks are still ok? Could I just redo the struts now, and upgrade the shocks later?
You say I can only do the front end - does that mean that there is no point in replacing the rear end, or that it is not possible?
Do I understand correctly that $300 would be a reasonable price to solve the problem, meaning both parts and labour? This would presumably be replacing the struts only, and front end only, yes?
Thank you again,
Mark
-Mark
2004 XC90 T6 AWD
1998 V70R AWD
2007 XC70
previous:
1995 850Turbo wagon
2007 XC90 AWD
2004 XC90 T6 AWD
1998 V70R AWD
2007 XC70
previous:
1995 850Turbo wagon
2007 XC90 AWD
-
JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
A strut IS a front shock it just has a spring wrapped around it, that is called a strut.mdv wrote:JRL, many thanks for that insight and suggestions.
Could I just make sure I understand a couple of things correctly?
You suggest Koni yellows - do I need to replace the whole shock/strut assembly, or can I just do the struts, if the shocks are still ok? Could I just redo the struts now, and upgrade the shocks later?
You say I can only do the front end - does that mean that there is no point in replacing the rear end, or that it is not possible?
Do I understand correctly that $300 would be a reasonable price to solve the problem, meaning both parts and labour? This would presumably be replacing the struts only, and front end only, yes?
Thank you again,
Mark
You re-use the spring and install it on the strut, then the assembly installs in one piece.
You have rear Nivomats, (air shocks) there is no aftermarket replacement for them which is why you should be careful with what front strut you use, too stiff and they don't balance out properly.
No, $300+ in LABOR, you still have to buy the struts and you really need to buy new spring seats ($62 ea.) and rfeplace them while you're in there. They fail a lot and it's no extra labor so we all (well, those who know) do this when replacing struts
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
$700 for parts and labor sounds pretty reasonable. I like the Bilstein Touring struts, but I only have experience with one car, whereas JRL rebuilds a lot of them and has much more experience. I have a V70 AWD but not an R, but I think the suspension components are similar. The Bilstein struts are about $150 each as I recall, maybe a little less. The stock struts are around $105 or 110. I also strongly recommend changing the spring seats. Mine were in bad shape when I changed them at around 140,000 miles.
If you want to do it yourself, there are some repair threads that outline how to do it. I did mine for the first time last year and it went OK. You have to be really careful with supporting the car, otherwise it can get a little dangerous. Probably not a good first time do-it-yourself job.
Longer term, the heavy duty sway bars from IPD are supposed to be excellent. However, they are expensive, close to $500 for the AWD, and my guess is the labor would almost double that cost. I changed out a broken front sway bar last year and I found it more difficult than changing struts.
If you want to do it yourself, there are some repair threads that outline how to do it. I did mine for the first time last year and it went OK. You have to be really careful with supporting the car, otherwise it can get a little dangerous. Probably not a good first time do-it-yourself job.
Longer term, the heavy duty sway bars from IPD are supposed to be excellent. However, they are expensive, close to $500 for the AWD, and my guess is the labor would almost double that cost. I changed out a broken front sway bar last year and I found it more difficult than changing struts.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
Thanks guys for clarifying that for me.
So, it looks like I am in for $700-$1000+ or so to do it right.
Sounds like I should put up with the bounce for while and save up for some Koni yellows.
By the way, the guy I buy my Michelin tires from carries KYB shocks - any thoughts, good, bad or indifferent? Might they have one that matches up alright with the nivomats?
Thanks again for your help,
Mark
So, it looks like I am in for $700-$1000+ or so to do it right.
Sounds like I should put up with the bounce for while and save up for some Koni yellows.
By the way, the guy I buy my Michelin tires from carries KYB shocks - any thoughts, good, bad or indifferent? Might they have one that matches up alright with the nivomats?
Thanks again for your help,
Mark
-Mark
2004 XC90 T6 AWD
1998 V70R AWD
2007 XC70
previous:
1995 850Turbo wagon
2007 XC90 AWD
2004 XC90 T6 AWD
1998 V70R AWD
2007 XC70
previous:
1995 850Turbo wagon
2007 XC90 AWD
- BEJinFbk
- Posts: 4067
- Joined: 5 January 2008
- Year and Model: '98 V70 R
- Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
- Has thanked: 93 times
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Actually, they aren't really an air shock. More of a, well, um...uh...,JRL wrote: You have rear Nivomats, (air shocks) there is no aftermarket replacement for them which is why you should be careful with what front strut you use, too stiff and they don't balance out properly.
a System.
I'll let them speak for themselves:
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
You could buy used struts from a recycler like Erie Vovo for about half the price of new ones. These typically are removed with springs and all, so it saves the labor of spring compression, removal etc. I bought some last year just to get the springs. If you get them from a low mileage vehicle they might last a while if the mounts are OK.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
-
JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
Never use a used strut or shock on any car.
These are wear items.
A shock's useful life (depending on road conditions) is from between 50 and 80K miles so unless you can be guaranteed a used shock/strut has under 15K K miles, your 4+ hours of labor is essentially wasted.
Buying used parts is fine if they're not mechanical wear items.
Would you put used brakes on your car? I don't think so!
Stick with trim or switchgear only when it comes to used parts.
These are wear items.
A shock's useful life (depending on road conditions) is from between 50 and 80K miles so unless you can be guaranteed a used shock/strut has under 15K K miles, your 4+ hours of labor is essentially wasted.
Buying used parts is fine if they're not mechanical wear items.
Would you put used brakes on your car? I don't think so!
Stick with trim or switchgear only when it comes to used parts.
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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