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Drivers side door stop

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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duncur
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Drivers side door stop

Post by duncur »

I have a 1998 V70 and the front door makes a popping sound when I open it. I have searched the forum and found several posts on the subject but can't seem to find exactly what I am looking for. What I have is the door stop appears to have broken or started to come loose from the "A" pillar. When I open and close the door slowly I can see the part moving and the metal flexing. How is that repaired? It looks near impossible to gain access to that area.

Thank You

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

You have to take the door panel (& door) off and buy a replacement part. DO NOT BUY SCANTECH!!! I made that mistake, and mine broke again in 3 months the first time I let it swing open on a hill.

It's a bit of a pain, and I have just lived with it and don't open the door all the way until I feel like fixing it again.

Anyway, here is how to go about removing the door panel:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?p=40467
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


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Sperry
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Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
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Post by Sperry »

Image

Here's the part you need. This one is sold by iPd.
1994 850 Turbo Sedan. 202,000, and getting more experienced, not older. - sold

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E Showell
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Post by E Showell »

Sometimes if you catch it early enough it is just the two 10MM nuts on the door side of the equation coming loose. Tightening them with an application of red locktite can eliminate this problem if the check strap has not yet broken and no metal has been deformed. This is not a problem that gets better with age. Best to jump on it right away or it can escalate into a more serious repair involving replacement of the affected part. The is a welding repair that can be done which is a permanent fix, but it can be pretty pricey.
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'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
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duncur
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Post by duncur »

Thanks for replies. I checked all the fasteners and they are tight. In my case the damaged area is on the actual door frame (I think that is called the A pillar). It looks like the stop is starting to separate from that piece and is flexing when the door is opened/closed. Does that require welding? Is this a "do-it-yourself" fix or do I need to go to a body shop?

Thanks again.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

That's just where the stop has broken and the resulting 'clunk' is the metal going past its stop point. I don't know why they made this thing such a poor design - I've never heard of it with any other car. You can fix it yourself in about an hour and a half - once you get the door apart, you'll pretty much see what you have to do, but if you have any questions, just ask! :mrgreen:
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

duncur
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Post by duncur »

Looking at my door the actual door stop part is OK. What appears to be broken is the piece that is attached (welded?) to the outer door frame. It is the piece that is attached to the outer door frame once you remove the 30mm torx bolt from the door stop limiter. Looks like you need to gain access somehow to do a weld repair.

Thanks again for all the replies

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E Showell
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Post by E Showell »

I do not weld, thus, I have never done the weld repair myself. I am not aware of the specifics of that repair. I am aware, however, that there is some wiring that runs inside the door in and around the door check so that it is advisable to open everything up and remove/move the wiring so that it is not toasted in a welding session. You might consider looking for someone who has successfully performed this repair on Volvos before. A weld repair can run upwards of $100/door in my neck of the woods.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT

wheelsup
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Post by wheelsup »

There's a writeup from an Aussie chap who successfully used nuts and bolts to reinforce it. It looked rather complicated so I just removed it. There is a shot somewhere of someone who left theirs to "creak" and it tore a big hole in the pillar.

I removed mine (door check) altogether. Just be careful opening the door. It's been out around a year, no regrets here :).
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles

holler1
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Post by holler1 »

I can't add much, but I thought a picture might be useful. This shows where the door stop attaches to the A pillar and illustrates what can happen to the weak pillar sheet metal. At the top of the picture is where the electrical connector for the door goes through. This one looks like it was welded before by the original owner. If I were a welder, I would try to get in there and fix it. I tried to find a local welder to work on it and could not. I also thought about attaching some kind of plate to hold the stop or maybe filling the gap with epoxy. Finally I just decided that mine were too bad to fix and unhooked them on both sides. The only disadvantage is opening the door on a hill on in a stiff wind.
IMG_1752.JPG
IMG_1752.JPG (213.89 KiB) Viewed 7145 times
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
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