'95 850GLT Battery Dead-'No' Reason-Electrical Genius Needed

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 01 Jan 2010, 20:33

I feel like I am back to where I was in 2006 when I posted similar problem.

My car wouldn't turn over at all today. It was dead, interior lights barely on. The battery is 12 months old to the day. I don't live in a state where there is cold temperature (less than 45F at night during winter as average), nor extreme summer heat or humidity.

I have noticed in the past 3-5 weeks I would come out and start my car for the first time (morning or night didn't matter when I started) after the previous night, it would turn over just fine. However, after putting into 1st gear and applying some gas, it would seem as if the car was going to stall sort of. I wouldn't do anything different, I'd push down on accelerator pedal and I was off, no problem. This would not repeat itself until the next day, or some days later perhaps. The interval of this repeating itself seemed random.

Tonight, I got a jump from AAA. The guy tested the battery, no dead cells, he tested alternator, appears fine. He put some jumper device on the terminals, car turned over/started on the first go. I'm not saying the alternator isn't bad, just reporting what I was told.

Also, at NO time did the low battery light come on at all.

Here's what was done in 2006 (original post https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... f=1&t=7525), BUT, I will list below what was replaced since 2006 to help you guys.

1. Battery cable replaced - the positive battery cable from the terminal was having a drop in electrical load. Volvo dealership tested alternator..nothing wrong..no bendix issue, even checked remote entry control to make sure there wasn't a fault in draining the battery..

2. Feb 2006- starter Bendix drive was replaced, 87,000 miles

3. Oct 2007 at 95,725 miles
Ignition Switch Replaced

4. Jan 2009
New battery from AAA, 750CA 600CCA Premium Battery

5. Jan 2009 At 110,000 miles, a tune up was done, the following was replaced
-replaced cap/rotor and wire set
-replaced 5 spark plugs

6. Dec 2009
Oddly enough the fuse to cigarette lighter blew a few days ago. I replaced it. I haven't had any fuses blow in 5 years. I rare use it actually. Sporadically to plug in cell phone (rare), or GPS (even more rare).

7. Dec 2009
1 week ago- Throttle body and idle motor cleaned out

I'd appreciate any help on this one.

I can't help but feel it's the same problem again.

Trust me, I realize with electrical the cause(s) may be varied and numerous! I know. It could be anything.

My concern is I'll bring it to the my independent Volvo mechanic, he'll say the battery/alternator are fine. Then what? Should I bring it to automotive electrical specialists then....

Thanks in advance.

Post by **confused_al** » 01 Jan 2010, 21:15

This might interest you:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... try1641279

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 01 Jan 2010, 22:31

confused_al wrote:This might interest you:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... try1641279

THANKS!

I've been wondering what cables could be suspect as well. This is helpful as well. Perhaps it's not my alternator at all.

I found the following related to cables via that link you gave me

"Starting about two years ago, most of the GEN 1 cars I've bought have had low voltage to the battery and in every case it was the B cable, the long cable that runs under everything and takes a good hour to hour and a half to replace.
The cable corroded and it loses the ability to carry 13.5 volts to the battery and eventually you wind up with a dead battery.
Many are fooled thinking they need an alternator when all they need a replacement cable.
Do yourselves all a favor, if your cables are original you most likely need new ones or at least the one B cable.
Do a battery load test, this is the easiest way to find out.

What I didn't know is there is a TNN that apparently came out in about 2003-2004 that specifically addressed this problem."

I wonder if this is the case for me. I'll find out I guess.

instarx · Post by **instarx** » 02 Jan 2010, 05:55

Next time it happens check the voltage on the battery at the battery terminals. A voltmeter is cheap. If the battery is 12-13 volts and the lights are still dim and the engine won't turn over then there is something preventing the current from getting from the battery to the car. Checking battery voltage won't tell you what is causing the problem but it may let you exclude the battery/alternator from your search. It does sound like corroded or bad cables, or maybe a broken battery post.

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 02 Jan 2010, 14:26

instarx wrote:Next time it happens check the voltage on the battery at the battery terminals. A voltmeter is cheap. If the battery is 12-13 volts and the lights are still dim and the engine won't turn over then there is something preventing the current from getting from the battery to the car. Checking battery voltage won't tell you what is causing the problem but it may let you exclude the battery/alternator from your search. It does sound like corroded or bad cables, or maybe a broken battery post.

Thanks, I have to admit I don't know a lot in this area. The only I had electrical problems with a car was with my 77 Saab, and it was always alternator related, not cables either.

When you say broken battery post, do you mean the metal terminal post itself? Wouldn't that show up as a problem already though via AAA's test?

I like your idea, and I will do it. I may have a voltmeter, I need to check.

Post by **Pauloil** » 02 Jan 2010, 19:34

you need to know the voltage at the battery and if you have a short somewhere..... See:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... rt+circuit+

the glovebox light could be on: look at the pad that is supposed to turn it off and see if it has a hole in it. I used a thick floor glide piece to replace mine and dropped the voltage drop down to 0.04 volts when using the neg. batt. cable

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 03 Jan 2010, 12:33

Pauloil wrote:you need to know the voltage at the battery and if you have a short somewhere..... See:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... rt+circuit+

the glovebox light could be on: look at the pad that is supposed to turn it off and see if it has a hole in it. I used a thick floor glide piece to replace mine and dropped the voltage drop down to 0.04 volts when using the neg. batt. cable

No it's not the glovebox light, that has been permanently turned off by Volvo.

Post by **Pauloil** » 03 Jan 2010, 17:16

the point is to see the "resting voltage" and be sure it is a low as it is supposed to be.... shorts can be in many places,relays etc....

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 03 Jan 2010, 19:44

Pauloil wrote:the point is to see the "resting voltage" and be sure it is a low as it is supposed to be.... shorts can be in many places,relays etc....

Oh I see...sorry.

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 06 Jan 2010, 19:21

Well I brought the car into Volvo, battery was dead again. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to check the battery terminals before it was jumped.

Car wasn't driven for 2 days, battery dead. Same as before, AAA arrives car starts with a quick jump. I drove the car for an hour. Then brought it to my Volvo guy. Hopefully they can figure out what the problem is. They are going to do an AVR test. Amps/Voltage/Resistance diagnostic. I hope they find something. If they don't..crap!

He hooked up some sort of meter from Interstate Battery.

Battery had a 675 CCA, with 12.49V if I read the digital printout correctly. In short, battery good.

Then did a start test and a charging system test w/the same hand held Interstate unit.

Charging System report, no problems.
No Load 13.53V, at Load 13.44V