1995 volvo 850 remote starter keyless entry install problem

[BEJinFbk]

It looks like Yellow/Gray should get it...
Maybe this will help:

95 850 Central Locking - 4 door.pdf

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[leroy-schelde]

still nothing. I just removed the glovebox and no original receiver. I am going to try to hook up a relay and amplify the ground to the yellow/gray lock wire and see what happens wish me luck still open to any and all suggestions... thank you

-LeRoy Schelde

[leroy-schelde]

Still no luck. God bless anybody who puts these things in professionally or for a living. I have literally ripped my car apart trying to diagnose this one and I think its beyond my knowledge.

-LeRoy Schelde

[diyer97]

Let me ask you these questions regard testing which is time consuming and tedious work:
1. Have you identified the unlock and lock cable using the voltmeter? I assume you don't have access to the technician installation book which lists color coded wires for specific vehicles.
2. And if you have the next step is to test them yourself. I again assume you have a 12 volt power supply/ or you can tap into your car battery to do this test. What I'm suggesting is that setup a 12v circuit (made up of relays) that give you either +12v /-12v (depend on how you set it up) on its output terminal (#87 or #30 make sure yourself) upon activation and you apply those pulses to those unlock/lock wires to see how they respond. And only after verifying that your pulse (either +/-) work those wires just like your car door lock control buttons do then it's just a matter of using relays (amplify is your word) to give them the right pulse.
Good luck!
I never worked on my volvo door so i don't know for sure how they're wired but based on my common sense those lock/unlock wires need a +12v to work them and thus the actuator; otherwise giving them a -12v is kind of bad designs since the circuit will have +12v sitting there thus draining the battery.

[BEJinFbk]

Still no luck. God bless anybody who puts these things in professionally or for a living. I have literally ripped my car apart trying to diagnose this one and I think its beyond my knowledge.

-LeRoy Schelde

All you're doing here is convincing the car that you're locking or unlocking it with a key at one of the front doors.
These locks are #'s 3/74 and 3/75 in the wiring diagram attachment that I posted on 1/22/10 at 1:02.
When you turn the key to lock, the key switch shows the Yellow/Gray wire a ground for as long as you have the key turned.
This goes to the central locking module where a very small brain (2/7) and the doorlock motor relays are.

Now - Let's nail some things down.

I have identified the gray/red wire and the yellow/gray wire and ground them both out to make sure they are correct. -LeRoy Schelde

ARE you confirming here that you DO know which wire to ground to lock?
Because THIS post contradicts the first one, that you found and grounded the lock wire...

The funny thing is and every post and forum I have read tells me that if I ground the yellow and gray wire, it should lock the door. Still haven't gotten it to lock any which way.

So, does the car's central locking feature WORK and lock/unlock all the doors with the key?
This is a key to making this interface work. If IT doesn't, You should stop right here and fix central locking system.
Once the car works correctly, then the autostart install and programming tweaking can be completed.

Until then, The idea you have here:

I am going to try to hook up a relay and amplify the ground to the yellow/gray lock wire and see what happens
-LeRoy Schelde

Is completely pointless.

So? Does the car lock all the doors with the key?

[Ralphie097]

Hi Leroy. I am an MECP certified installer and I too was hung up with this keyless entry issue all day today. I tried the gray/red and yellow/gray and could only get the car to unlock (but never lock). I have a 1995 850 Turbo (with the factory remote) and installed a Viper remote start with keyless entry. What I ended up doing was pulling the driver's door panel (you won't have to do this) to find the wires which control the driver's door lock actuator. The colors are Yellow and Yellow/Brown. You can catch them high on the driver's side kick panel under the dash in the big white plastic connector (next to the red one). They are a reverse polarity or 5-wire set-up. (You can look-up how to wire a reverse polarity system on the web easy enough.) 5-wire means you end up cutting these two wires and end up with four wires. Once cut you end up with a switch side [the half of the cut wire that goes back to the switch] and a motor side for each wire.) Wire it up as the 5-wire diagram says and stop. Be sure that once you have everything wired as you believe to be correct ( switch side from motor side) to use the alarm remote to test that the wires are connected correctly and that you have a fused +12V (15A) on the relays. If you do not test using alarm remote and you are not wired correctly, you can do some damage. If the wiring is correct the doors will lock and unlock fine, if not you will need to replace the 15A fuse which will have blown and rewire corrrectly. I believe the Yellow/Brown wire controls unlock and Yellow is lock.

Good Luck!

[bigdaddylee82]

Bringing this back from the dead. OP did you ever get this figured out?

I am have exactly the same issue. Wires from the driver door in the driver side kick panel, Yellow/Gray and Gray/Red seem to be the proper wires, but like leroy-schelde I can only get the un-lock to work when grounding the Gray/Red wire. Grounding the Yellow/Gray wire does nothing... unless the ground for the under dash courtesy light is disconnected.

In short un-lock works grounding the Gray/Red, and Lock works grounding the Yellow/Gray wire, if and only if the courtesy lights aren't grounded.

I would like my interior likes to still work...

I need some pointers from others that have actually done this. There's so much conjecture, misinformation, and hear-say on the web that it's beyond frustrating. I have the full wiring diagram .pdf for the '95 850, and my car is a '95 850, I don't really understand why/how a relay to ground will work or the "5-Wire" example Ralphie097 mentioned, when physically grounding the Yellow/Gray wire with a jumper only unlocks the door if the courtesy light is un-grounded.

Someone has to have gotten this to work.


- Lee

[bigdaddylee82]

I had an epiphany, after I "gave up" and quit thinking about it.

I went out and got a generic Duralast 5 Pin Relay from Autozone, only "simple" way I could come up with, to lock the door. the 5 pin relay is a Dual Post Single Throw, i.e. one switch is Normally Closed (NC), the other is Normally Open (NO). I'm using the (-) from the remote start/keyless "brain" to trigger the coil in the relay.

On the NC post I have the ground for the courtesy lights (87A), on the NO post I have a wire going to the Yellow/Gray un-lock wire coming from the driver door in the driver kick panel (87). On the Common post I have a wire going to ground (30). The coil posts on the relay are attached to the (-) un-lock wire from the "brain" (85), and a constant +12V source (86).



So it's working to unlock, I think I can say I've got that hurdle out of the way. So far this works, I've tested so much trying to find the correct (-) yellow/white door trigger wire that I've had to stop and put the battery on the charger, probably didn't help any that the door has been open so long with the interior lights on too.


- Lee