Login Register

Volvo Tie-rod play

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » How To Replace Volvo Tie Rods
Post Reply
User avatar
volvoaddict007
Posts: 195
Joined: 24 July 2007
Year and Model: 760 Turbo
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by volvoaddict007 »

Members of this thread,


Just stoppin buy to proudly say I am Hit # 6000

( This sort of thing always impresses me. )

Now you guys will always know the day the thread hit 6K :roll:



va007
8)
1990 5 speed 760 Turbo Wagon 310K.
( '91 940 turbo eng. + trans.)
Konis, diesel springs, 2.5" exhst., 850 T5 wheels

1993 300ZX 2+2, 171K

1999 Ford Windstar LX, 90K

howie
Posts: 88
Joined: 21 May 2008
Year and Model:
Location: East Lansing Michigan
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by howie »

jcookeusa wrote:Hi All,

I just wanted to add a small detail to the very helpful post from MadeInJapan above. The absolute best way to get an outer tie-rod end to break free from the steering arm is simply to hit the arm (not the tie-rod or its stud) very hard with a hammer.

I've modified the picture posted above with an arrow showing where to strike:
Image

So, you basically swing the hammer pretty hard and repeatedly strike the piece of the steering arm that surrounds the tie-rod stud. This has never not worked for me. After only one strike or perhaps ten strikes, the tie-rod will eventually break free. Usually, this is obvious, as it will simply pop out. Sometimes, however, you may need to tap very lightly with the hammer on the tie-rod stud end. But only do this lightly. You do not want to hammer with any real force on that stud because it may mushroom and then you could have a real tough time getting it out of the arm.

Also, those wedged separating forks (I forget the proper name) aren't a very good idea since they'll chew up any dust boot on the tie-rod (that may be OK if you're replacing the tie-rod, but not if you're keeping it, so don't bother buying a fork). The hammering-the-arm method always works.

I hope this helps.

-Justin
Thank you for the advice! I used you banging method today on my S70 and it worked like a charm, I used a small sledge and it popped my 9 year old tie rod ends out like popcorn.
2000 Volvo S70 SE, 145.000 on the clicker Gone

1998 V70R 195.000 Gone

2008 C70 86K

wooded
Posts: 38
Joined: 7 October 2007
Year and Model: 2001 v70xc cross cou
Location: NH-USA

Post by wooded »

I havn't found a standard for tie rod play, i think a mechanic rolls it and feels a small amount of resistance to rotation. I just replaced an inner tie rod and when out the thing just swings in the air. for safety items like this a good rule of thumb is it shouldnt be loose!
2002 BMW X5 3.0
2001 v70XC 206K
2002 v70XC 173K
96 850T wagon 194K-sold,
2004 Cadillac SLS- sold
2004 Chevy Avalanche 42K

t5rrr
Posts: 128
Joined: 26 November 2009
Year and Model: 1994 855
Location: Dublin, OH

Post by t5rrr »

mrreilly wrote:Edited
They said to at least have the left side taken car of.) They gave me a price estimate on the fix. However... they want $149.45 to do it. $88.25 for the parts, and $61.20 for labor. Why in the world is it $88 for parts?! The tie-rod end form eEuroparts.com costs $15. Are there other parts that would be involved in replacing that?
If they are really quoting Volvo parts then it's reasonable as I bought Volvo outer tie rods from FCP and they are about $30 each.

After fixing the fuel tank recall, my local Volvo dealer quote about $300 for outer tie-rod job including alignment, you can imagine how fast I drove my brick out the door!
Wagon Brigade >> 94 855 NA | 97 Subaru Impreza OBS | 07 Suzuki SX4
Previous Bricks >> 90 240 GLE 2.0 | 98 S70 T5A 2.0 | 03 XC90 T6 2.9

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post