2001 S80 T6 Siren Module 9452709 Replacement/Repair - How To Topic is solved
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Fix Siren Module on 2001 Volvo S80
Re: 2001 S80 T6 Siren Module Replacement/Repair - How To
My siren went bad too. Bought a new one and installed per this awesome procedure (had to have the mechanic reset the computer as the door unlock/lock did not work for me). Took the siren apart, and the negative was corroded off the battery. Nothing wrong with the circuit board. Here is a picture:
If anyone wants to repair this, let me know and we can work out the details.
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dtropnevad05
- Posts: 78
- Joined: 11 January 2010
- Year and Model: S-80, 2001
- Location: NW Ohio UAS
I just ordered a siren from Erie.com (you know the guys on the header) for $35.00 with a life time warranty paid it with my pay-pal was a walk in the park. Should have it Tuesday and if it's not to cold I'll install it over the weekend. With the very detailed write up this will be a walk in the park.
Don
Don
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dtropnevad05
- Posts: 78
- Joined: 11 January 2010
- Year and Model: S-80, 2001
- Location: NW Ohio UAS
Received the siren from Erie Vo-Vo today does anyone know what the test procedure would be? What lug is ground and what lug would be power? I would like to test it before I open the wheel opening. Also what is the size of the pop rivets?
The lugs are numbered 1 top, two middle and three on the bottom can someone identify what is what.
Thank you Don
The lugs are numbered 1 top, two middle and three on the bottom can someone identify what is what.
Thank you Don
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vegasjetskier
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: 16 December 2007
- Year and Model: 2010 Toyota Prius
- Location: Fernandina Bch, FL Formerly - Las Vegas, NV
- Been thanked: 6 times
I don't know of any way to bench test it. See the first post above for the size of the rivets.dtropnevad05 wrote:Received the siren from Erie Vo-Vo today does anyone know what the test procedure would be? What lug is ground and what lug would be power? I would like to test it before I open the wheel opening. Also what is the size of the pop rivets?
The lugs are numbered 1 top, two middle and three on the bottom can someone identify what is what.
Thank you Don
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
Hi everyone (my first post on this forum
).
I just received a siren kit (P/N 9499758)for my 2001 V70 as the installed unit has gone bad.
Does anyone know why the kit includes a replacement bonnet catch (do you guys in the USA call it a hood catch)? From what I can see when I open the bonnet, there are 2 catches as well as the central 'safety' catch to prevent the bonnet lifting without someone operating the lever. Do these catches fail regularly in some way which is why the siren kit contains a replacement? If so then why is there only one catch? The instructions with the siren kit are based on the catch being replaced as well as they cover the removal of the front bumper (fender?) and bits of trim. All very confusing.
I didn't want to start the task of replacing the siren (following the excellent instructions at the beginning of this thread) without being sure that I don't need to touh the bonnet catch for any reason (in other words, follow the instructions included in the kit instead).
My independent Volvo specialist quoted me £275 to replace the siren. I picked up the kit for £78 plus £5 postage from FRF Volvo in the UK (excellent service).
I'm hoping the 3 x lock/unlock will work as I don't want to have to pay someone to reset the system.
If I learn anything useful while replacing the siren I'll post it back on this thread.
I just received a siren kit (P/N 9499758)for my 2001 V70 as the installed unit has gone bad.
Does anyone know why the kit includes a replacement bonnet catch (do you guys in the USA call it a hood catch)? From what I can see when I open the bonnet, there are 2 catches as well as the central 'safety' catch to prevent the bonnet lifting without someone operating the lever. Do these catches fail regularly in some way which is why the siren kit contains a replacement? If so then why is there only one catch? The instructions with the siren kit are based on the catch being replaced as well as they cover the removal of the front bumper (fender?) and bits of trim. All very confusing.
I didn't want to start the task of replacing the siren (following the excellent instructions at the beginning of this thread) without being sure that I don't need to touh the bonnet catch for any reason (in other words, follow the instructions included in the kit instead).
My independent Volvo specialist quoted me £275 to replace the siren. I picked up the kit for £78 plus £5 postage from FRF Volvo in the UK (excellent service).
I'm hoping the 3 x lock/unlock will work as I don't want to have to pay someone to reset the system.
If I learn anything useful while replacing the siren I'll post it back on this thread.
Good write up. I came across with this post because I've seen Alarm Service error on my 04 S80 few weeks ago. Then it doesn't show up again. My sunroof is working fine now. I am wondering whether I should do some preventive measure NOW by removing the siren and replace the battery to prevent possible damage on the mainboard. Any advice is welcome.
Hi guys, new to the forum
Where do I start, I kept getting the alarm triggered on my 2001 S80 with no noise from the siren only flashing lights, at this point my sun roof was still working fine. I found this great link which I followed and replaced the alarm siren with one from another 2001 S80 " used ", the alarm is now working 100% however my sun roof does not work 100%. The sun roof will only open about 5cm backwards and fully upwards by using the backwards/forward motion on the switch, the up & down motion on the switch will not work.
PLEASE HELP!!!
Where do I start, I kept getting the alarm triggered on my 2001 S80 with no noise from the siren only flashing lights, at this point my sun roof was still working fine. I found this great link which I followed and replaced the alarm siren with one from another 2001 S80 " used ", the alarm is now working 100% however my sun roof does not work 100%. The sun roof will only open about 5cm backwards and fully upwards by using the backwards/forward motion on the switch, the up & down motion on the switch will not work.
PLEASE HELP!!!
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Retired MVS Contributor
The sun roof seems to be controlled by the same module as the alarm and when the alarm has a problem so does the sun roof...The siren went south on my sister-in-law's 2001 V70 T5...We did not replace tha siren yet, but got the sun roof working again by running three lock-unlock cycles of the doors with the remote control...This resets the module...
Hi jerrymcc
I have tried the lock-unlock 3 times with both the key and remote, no luck! the sun roof still won't work 100%, it just opens around 5cm. I have checked the fuse and its perfect, even tried replacing the fuse, same thing.
Any other suggestions?
I have tried the lock-unlock 3 times with both the key and remote, no luck! the sun roof still won't work 100%, it just opens around 5cm. I have checked the fuse and its perfect, even tried replacing the fuse, same thing.
Any other suggestions?
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supermodel
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 19 June 2010
- Year and Model: V70 2002
- Location: York UK
First of all, thanks for an absolutely brilliant "How to...", it gave me the confidence to take a drill to the rivet heads in the first place!!
My experience/observations that might help someone: V70 the alarm siren module is in the driver's side (right hand drive) wing, forward of the front wheel. I didn't disconnect the battery - I had already withdrawn Fuse 38 (in the driver's dashboard end) with the funky Volvo fuse extractor provided after the bloody thing kept going off in France at Easter!!
The whole inner wing liner came out easily - just drill out the 9 rivets with a sharp 5mm drill. The "Security" bolt that holds the siren module and metal frame in place came out just by gripping it with a pair of medium sized pliers and loosening a little ... some security! The electrical connector put up a fight .. read the "How to .. " for instructions !!
Once on the bench, I opened it as per the "How to" i.e. with a hacksaw. There was,at first sight, very little damage to the circuit board - under closer inspection, some of the battery's contents had migrated along the wires and caused some corrosion around the base of the connector. I removed the connector completely and soldered the new battery wires directly onto the board. New battery? you say? .... Yes!.... £24 inc.p&p from cellpacksolutions.com .. arrived in a couple of days. The original battery read only 2V when checked, it should be 7.2V. The 'new' battery doesn't fit perfectly, you will need to make some slight amendments - one of which was to cut the pink/white wires from the connector, remove the socket from the circuit board and again solder them directly onto the board. Clean the board thoroughly (I used Servisol De-Flux 160 and a toothbrush - inspect carefully for broken tracks (luckily I had none) and then squirt a little lacquer on any exposed copper etc.
I used some Loctite 5910 Silicone sealant to hold the battery in place and also to rejoin the whole thing together - apply pressure with some elastic bands. Left it overnight and reassembled in about 30 mins. Used the remote lock/unlock 3 times thing and it cleared the "Alarm Service Required" message. Just need to test it works when needed now ... any ideas anyone??
My experience/observations that might help someone: V70 the alarm siren module is in the driver's side (right hand drive) wing, forward of the front wheel. I didn't disconnect the battery - I had already withdrawn Fuse 38 (in the driver's dashboard end) with the funky Volvo fuse extractor provided after the bloody thing kept going off in France at Easter!!
The whole inner wing liner came out easily - just drill out the 9 rivets with a sharp 5mm drill. The "Security" bolt that holds the siren module and metal frame in place came out just by gripping it with a pair of medium sized pliers and loosening a little ... some security! The electrical connector put up a fight .. read the "How to .. " for instructions !!
Once on the bench, I opened it as per the "How to" i.e. with a hacksaw. There was,at first sight, very little damage to the circuit board - under closer inspection, some of the battery's contents had migrated along the wires and caused some corrosion around the base of the connector. I removed the connector completely and soldered the new battery wires directly onto the board. New battery? you say? .... Yes!.... £24 inc.p&p from cellpacksolutions.com .. arrived in a couple of days. The original battery read only 2V when checked, it should be 7.2V. The 'new' battery doesn't fit perfectly, you will need to make some slight amendments - one of which was to cut the pink/white wires from the connector, remove the socket from the circuit board and again solder them directly onto the board. Clean the board thoroughly (I used Servisol De-Flux 160 and a toothbrush - inspect carefully for broken tracks (luckily I had none) and then squirt a little lacquer on any exposed copper etc.
I used some Loctite 5910 Silicone sealant to hold the battery in place and also to rejoin the whole thing together - apply pressure with some elastic bands. Left it overnight and reassembled in about 30 mins. Used the remote lock/unlock 3 times thing and it cleared the "Alarm Service Required" message. Just need to test it works when needed now ... any ideas anyone??
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