New to Volvos & Forum-possible clogged oil trap

[jblackburn]

No, not the oil trap...it's actually the rear exhaust seal on the engine, which requires removing the transmission and dropping the engine slightly to get to. Not an easy fix. I usually don't shy away from car repairs, but this is something I absolutely refuse to fix myself. I don't have the time, or the tools. I'm looking at $900 to replace mine, and it still hasn't been done yet (come on tax return!!!). Mine is undriveable at the moment, it won't hold oil in the crankcase and just smells like car death when running.

I'm not sure about your starting problem, but it's not something I'd continue to mess with as that sounded like a pretty violent last attempt at running. Honestly at this point, I'd tow it to a mechanic and see what they say about it.

[jblackburn]

Is your turbo still working? Take off the top intercooler pipe that runs over the spark plug cover and have a look inside. Poke the fins with a screwdriver. It should spin easily. A bad turbo seal could be the cause of the white smoke you were having before, but I'm not exactly sure what a turbo's death throws are like.

[yankeechess]

I was able to get the car started and it ran very roguh with no power. I checked the oil and its very dirty. I only have driven the car a few times since changing the oil. I also do not see any leaks or coolant loss. From everything I have read it sounds like the oil system is very clogged. I did clean the PTC system that was pretty dirty. Could I also have a problem with oil pump. Another thing the check engine light was flashing after I had the car running.

Again I greatly appreciate all the help.

Scott

[jblackburn]

Man, what the heck did they do to this thing before you got it?

I think you mentioned earlier that you took off the cap and definitely saw oil being squirted around up top, which means the oil pump is working fine. If it wasn't working at all, you'd get a light for no oil pressure anyway.

But now you've got another problem on your hands. The flashing check engine light and stumbling means that it's misfiring now.

I'd start by pulling out the plugs and having a look. They may be fouled with oil or something. If they look alright, that cam sensor you replaced the seal on before might have been screwed up by all the oil.

Then your next problem is definitely getting the rest of the PCV cleaned before you try to drive it anymore! Something's hugely clogged up, either the oil separator or the lines or both. Leaving the oil dipstick out slightly could be good for it while you're trying to get it to run again.

[cowboysvolvofan]

I must say I am thoroughly enjoying this post because I am learning so much. It seems PCV is a hot topic all of a sudden so I checked for smoke coming out of my dipstick and there it was. There is also an oil leak on the right side of the engine (if you're looking at from under the hood) but it is not dripping. I can't tell exactly where it's building up. Cleaning the system will be my next project.

Thanks jablackburn for providing information and thanks yankeechess for not knowing anything about this like me!

[yankeechess]

Hey Jackelburn, I bought all the parts for the flame trap and have everything apart. Before putting everything back together, I had a quick question. The bottom hole that goes into the block was clogged, from what I have read this goes into the oil pan. First is this correct and second, how big is the whole suppose to be. I put a metal hanger in there and was able to get it about 4 inches down, it was very tight. I also wanted to mention the the 2 top holes were also very plugged.

Thanks again for everything

[kcodyjr]

$5 says the rear main seal was already bad when you bought it.

With the PCV and PTC systems so thoroughly clogged, there wasn't any oil reaching the real seals due to all the gunk. The RMS thus dried out, but wasn't leaking because the gunk itself was making a new seal.

You cleaned the PTC, changed the oil, and then raised oil pressure when you gave it a kick on the highway. That dislodged much of the gunk, and by the sounds it blew through the intake and into the cylinders.

I'd start by taking the intake off and performing the PCV service. Clean the whole damn thing out with carb cleaner; throttle body and hoses included. Pull the plugs and clean thoroughly with more carb cleaner. Don't replace them yet.

Pull the intake hoses off the turbo as well, if my suspicion is right, the compressor wheel will be covered in oil clots.

Then, drain the oil, drop the pan, and wipe up that gunk too. Put some fresh conventional oil into it; you don't want aggressive detergents right now, nor synthetic, until the status of your RMS is certain.

Then light it up and see if it burns itself clean. It should only take a few minutes at idle. Then take it around town until it burns clean at that load level too. Etc etc etc. Be sure to check the condition of the oil between each run, changing if necessary. Recheck the plugs if it start misfiring.

If at any point you see evidence that my theory is wrong - a clean part of the intake - then STOP, and find a local independent Volvo specialist.


- Kevin

[kcodyjr]

Clarification, clean the -intake- with carb cleaner.

Do not spray it into those holes. They lead into the crankcase.

[yankeechess]

Thanks for all the help and info. Could you tell me what the compressor wheel is and or package and do you know what the diameter or info on the bottom whole that runs off the bottom of flame trap into engine block

Thank you

[yankeechess]

correction not package, PICTURE

I hope is all works and not a rear main