New to Volvos & Forum-possible clogged oil trap

[kcodyjr]

By compressor wheel, I mean the intake side of the turbo. Sorry, I don't have pictures handy, but maybe someone else does.

As I recall the bottom hole should be just a bit bigger than a US quarter, but smaller than a Kennedy half dollar. The trap should have a fitting on the back; I recall there's a short piece of rubber hose with a piece of metal molded into it, that acts as a coupling.

- Kevin

[yankeechess]

I no how big the outside of the hole is, I was trying to figure out what it was in side the tube and does this go into the oil pan. I tried putting a metal wire through there to clean out and if this does go into the oil pan, I will have to take off and clean as recommended.

I still can't believe how bad these oil systems get plugged up. I guess Volvo was so worried about safety, they over looked the entire oil system. I guess I can never get hurt in a car crash if the car is not drivable.

[yankeechess]

Anyone want a Volvo :}

After hours of working in the NY Cold, I was able to replace the entire oil trap system. $140 for the flame trap and hoses. I was pretty proud that I was able to do it on my own. Well after it starting Its still acting the same as before I fixed it. a lot of smoke coming from dipstick tube. I even replaced the spark plugs. I think the old plugs were the original ones (173,0000 miles) Is it possiblethe hole going from the bottom of trap tp engine block and down into oil pan is still clogged. if this was the only place that was clogged would it cause these issues. Another new problem is the transmission is not shifting smooth. the lights on the center console for winter, sport driving are flashing back and fourth. The up arrow on the dash is also flashing. Is is possible I could have done something are does anyone now what would caise this.

I am going to now drop the oil pan, clean, and see if I can go in to the hole from the back side. I am at the point ofcutting my loses

[kcodyjr]

If you get no joy wiping out the oil pan, I'm thinking it's actually those upper holes at fault, meaning part of the oil pathways is clogged.

Pre-trap, in other words. The pressure may simply be stuck in the system somewhere upstream of the trap.

If that's the case I only know of one solution, and it's certain to expose the condition of the RMS in all its ugliness. That would be an oil flush, the kind that comes in a can and gets poured into the oil filler. I'd expect it to successfully clean your oil system, leaving nothing between your fresh hot oil and the ground except a bone dry rear main seal.

That would result in large volumes of oil being blown out on the ground. I did that once and was able to drive the car for short distances, as in directly to the mechanic, by keeping a few bottles of oil in the car and stopping every few miles to top it off.

Here's another idea: pull off the hoses leading from the trap to the intake. Hang the hoses into a milk bottle or something, and plug up the hole in the intake with a piece of rubber, or cloth wrapped in a heavy ziploc baggie. Something that will make a seal but not get sucked in.

That will divide your problem so it can be conquered separately; as you work the crankcase pressure issue, you won't be continuing to contaminate your induction, combustion, and exhaust systems.

Once you do that it should start burning itself clean, though you may want to pull the intake ducting and make sure it isn't gunked up again. You did clean the throttle body last time you had it apart, right?

As for giving up... I wouldn't yet, but only you can judge your frustration versus mechanical aptitude versus how much you want the car. If you're really wanting to throw in the towel, post some pictures of the car, maybe someone's in the mood for a challenge, and name an asking price. You said NY? There are a good number of Volvo owners from there on north, for obvious reasons.

- Kevin

[kcodyjr]

Eek. I'm surprised nobody thought of this before. The loud popping sound, and subsequent smoking, could indicate a blown piston ring. Perhaps a compression test is in order? That would mean an engine-out rebuild and if that's the case, you want to stop sinking money into it now.

[kcodyjr]

Bump, I'm dying of curiosity, does it yet live?

[yankeechess]

I still do not have any idea what the problem is. I replaced the entire oil trap system and new spark plugs. Its still blowing smoke out of the dip stick tube and exhaust. If anyone has questions on the following, I would greatly appreciate

First, I know that the bottom hole on the oil trap goes into the the block & then feeds into the oil pan. How big in diameter is the whole and if plugged still could it cause these same issues as I had before fixing. If all lines and were clean and this was the only clog, would the system be strong enough to blow this out on its own.

The next big question is that while working on the car, it sat for about 4 days without starting. After doing the PTC and PCV repairs, I started and took for a test drive. In addition to it still running like crap and smoking, the tranny was not shifting really smooth as it did before. The Up arrow on the dash is flashing along with the SPORT / ECONOMY lights are flashing back and fourth. Is there anything on the throttle body or near where I would have been working that might have messed up or a wire that could of been disconected

After putting so much money and time, I am really thinking about selling. If you are a mechanic and live near upstate NY, this might be a great deal to fix up yourself. its a 1998 V70 GLT AWD, Light Grey with Black int. all options excepts leather & sunroof. very clean inside & out

Sorry for the lengthy post.

[kcodyjr]

You'll need to do a compression test before anyone will buy it, just to know if it needs an engine swap or bottom end rebuild.

The right way is the test gadget that screws into the spark plug socket.

The poor man's way is to pull the plug wires one by one with it running. If any of them fail to make the engine run even worse, that cylinder likely does not have compression.


- Kevin

[yankeechess]

to make sure I have this correct, If I pull one of the spark plug wires and it runs worse, I have low compression. I will try later today and get back to you.

[kcodyjr]

No, if you pull one and it runs worse, that cylinder was contributing to the engine's success, because now it's not since you yanked its wire.

If you pull a wire and it remains exactly the same, that cylinder wasn't doing squat, and the cause needs to be investigated. Cross that bridge when and if we get to it.

Find that out first. Whether all cylinders are firing or whether one or more has lost the ability to do useful work. Then we know which diagnostic path to start following.

- Kevin