Help taking control arm/axle off

Post by **wheelsup** » 15 Feb 2010, 18:41

Hi I am trying to remove the control arm and axle assembly without causing undue harm to the bushings.

This is what I did, following the Hayes manual

Removed the lower bolt holding the control arm to the wheel area

Tried to pry it loose

This tore the CV boot, and didn't even loosen the control arm

I then removed the other two bolts holding the control arm onto the sub frame and had to pound them out. This damaged the bushings.

How do I remove the control arm without damaging the bushings? I'm now doing this on my parts car but will have to learn how to do it right when I have to do it on my car, so I want to practice the "right" way on the drivers side tomorrow.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 15 Feb 2010, 19:42

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/cv_boot.html

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php

Post by **wheelsup** » 15 Feb 2010, 19:56

Man I looked there too, searched under "axle", didn't look hard enough...thanks.

Post by **wheelsup** » 15 Feb 2010, 20:03

So they do it both ways. Interesting. I wonder how they pry it off without damaging the bushings, I just tore mine up.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 15 Feb 2010, 20:15

When you pry the ball joint out, use the lever parallel to the control arm, up against the frame. Once you get the ball joint out, there should be no more pressure on the bushings, so you should be able to get those bolts out more easily.

Post by **januwan** » 15 Feb 2010, 21:41

vegasjetskier wrote:When you pry the ball joint out, use the lever parallel to the control arm, up against the frame.

+1
Insert pry bar into triangular opening in control arm and push against the frame

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 15 Feb 2010, 21:50

From your original picture the ball joint boot looks like it is toast. Sadly the only way to deal with a bad ball joint is to replace the control arm.

If you don't have a lot of slop in the ball joint you might get by with another few thousand miles before it craps out on you.

The way I deal with getting the axle out is to remove the two bolts on the inner mounts on the control arm where it bolts up to the subframe and let the rest of it flop. I have never been so lucky as to get the inner joint popped out from the steering knuckle without tearing the crap out of the grease boot. Others seem to have the Midas touch and they can just tap it and the pin falls out.

...Lee

Post by **wheelsup** » 16 Feb 2010, 07:55

Thanks Lee, what about the bushings on the control arm? I found I was tearing the rubber surround as I hammered it down.

I guess worst case is you damage the bushings but replace them as they come pretty cheap. But like you said the major issue is the bushing on the "T" point (this is the "ball joint"?). My daily looks just like that, it is very bad. Once I get the engine and tranny squared away I'm replacing the suspension components. And the evap. And the.......(it doesn't end).

Post by **wheelsup** » 16 Feb 2010, 08:15

Also this is my first bout taking these components apart, I'm still learning the terminology. The fact that I took an axle out of a car still amazes me haha...(I'm easily amused).

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Feb 2010, 16:39

You can take the axle apart and install new boots:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/cv_boot.html

At the end of the day if your boots are torn up you might just be better off replacing the axles. Avoid the $79.00 China specials if you go that route. I have never, ever, heard of a complaint on Raxles ( www.raxles.com ) but EMPI axles seem to be OK as well.

...Lee