AC was not blowing super cold and compressor was cycling on/off with very regular frequency (engaged for 3 seconds, off for 3 seconds, repeat). Recharged system assuming low pressure sensor was causing kickouts. AC now ice cold when compressor is running, but still cycles on/off when auto temp is on lowest setting and/or fan set to high cool.
Checked fault codes, found 2-2-1 Pass side damper motor position sensor short to ground, 4-1-1 Blower fan seized or drawing excessive current, and 4-1-7 Pass side interior temp inlet fan seized.
Reset fault codes and checked both side inlet temp sensors. Both sensors dirty and dusty, blew out, cleaned both sides and made sure fans spin freely. No more fault codes, but compressor cycling problem still exists.
What else can I check or what else could cause regular cycling of the compressor? The cycling happens in both auto and manual mode and doesn't appear to be tied to any particular driving style/events. What other sensors/electrical items trigger the compressor clutch to turn on/off? My Clymer book has schematics for every electrical system except the A/C / Auto Climate Control.
Is there a simple way to jump the compressor clutch into the 'on' position for the summer months?
95 850 Turbo AC Compressor Cycling On/Off
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95autoturbo
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 15 May 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: ST Charles MO
Hmm sound like a recently familiar problem of mine 
..........Does any one have any answers?
..........Does any one have any answers?yes......It is an 850!
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95autoturbo
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 15 May 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: ST Charles MO
here it is, I found this info on an old post so I will try to keep it as close as I can..............
I had the blinking a/c lights and cyclic reduncy issue with my condensor, that means our volvos probably have leaks in the lines and charging them with the kits of R-134a from quest "Cool Zone #390 complete recharge kit" I bought from autozone $48 bucks, it has 3 cans of refrigerant they each have the charge, conditioner, and stop leak -www.efproducts.com- it comes with a gauge that self taps the can. you can use the gauge to test the R- level without using the can!
The first time I tried this I was a bit worried cause while I was filling the line the gauge would shoot up to Danger! Which I have learned not to worry about cause it is safe regardless it will not over fill the AC as some people claim, just pierce the can and open it wide up! -and if there is any thing leftover you can just unscrew it holding it away from you, the R- will just escape and evaperate, so do it outside.
here is what has worked for me...
1. connect the gauge w/out can!
2. turn on car, and turn a/c on full blast for a few minutes.....
3. your gauge should be to 55 if it is full (remember it will not over fill)
4. follow the lines from the condenser to the fire wall if there is enough R- you should feel one of the lines is cold and the other is warm, that means to add your cans, cause both lines should feel cold if there is sufficient R-
5. screw in a can tighen to pierce- open it wide up the gauge will shoot to danger (do not worry it is typical!)
- soon you will have an arctic like a/c, and you will be proud of yourself cause you didnt have to get ripped off from the stealership or any other grease monkey shops!
_________________
yes......It is an 850!
I had the blinking a/c lights and cyclic reduncy issue with my condensor, that means our volvos probably have leaks in the lines and charging them with the kits of R-134a from quest "Cool Zone #390 complete recharge kit" I bought from autozone $48 bucks, it has 3 cans of refrigerant they each have the charge, conditioner, and stop leak -www.efproducts.com- it comes with a gauge that self taps the can. you can use the gauge to test the R- level without using the can!
The first time I tried this I was a bit worried cause while I was filling the line the gauge would shoot up to Danger! Which I have learned not to worry about cause it is safe regardless it will not over fill the AC as some people claim, just pierce the can and open it wide up! -and if there is any thing leftover you can just unscrew it holding it away from you, the R- will just escape and evaperate, so do it outside.
here is what has worked for me...
1. connect the gauge w/out can!
2. turn on car, and turn a/c on full blast for a few minutes.....
3. your gauge should be to 55 if it is full (remember it will not over fill)
4. follow the lines from the condenser to the fire wall if there is enough R- you should feel one of the lines is cold and the other is warm, that means to add your cans, cause both lines should feel cold if there is sufficient R-
5. screw in a can tighen to pierce- open it wide up the gauge will shoot to danger (do not worry it is typical!)
- soon you will have an arctic like a/c, and you will be proud of yourself cause you didnt have to get ripped off from the stealership or any other grease monkey shops!
_________________
yes......It is an 850!
yes......It is an 850!
-
KLS
Too much refrigerant in a system is a problem. I would never add more than one can. If the system was completely empty, it would require 1.63 pounds of R134a, according to the sticker under the hood.
Too much refrigerant partly fills the cooling space in the condenser and does not allow for adequate cooling. This results in excessively high discharge pressures and temperatures from the compressor.
The pressure you see where you add refrigerant is the suction pressure going to the compressure. It is dependent on the temperature inside the car. Refrigerant pressures are all temperature dependent...they have a documented pressure/temperature relationship.
When you add that one can of refrigerant, never hold it upside down. This can allow liquid refrigerant to get to the pistons in the compressor and cau$e damage.
Immerse the can in hot tap water when it gets cool while you are adding refrigerant to the system. There should be nothing left to vent to the atmosphere.
Ken
Too much refrigerant partly fills the cooling space in the condenser and does not allow for adequate cooling. This results in excessively high discharge pressures and temperatures from the compressor.
The pressure you see where you add refrigerant is the suction pressure going to the compressure. It is dependent on the temperature inside the car. Refrigerant pressures are all temperature dependent...they have a documented pressure/temperature relationship.
When you add that one can of refrigerant, never hold it upside down. This can allow liquid refrigerant to get to the pistons in the compressor and cau$e damage.
Immerse the can in hot tap water when it gets cool while you are adding refrigerant to the system. There should be nothing left to vent to the atmosphere.
Ken
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95autoturbo
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 15 May 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: ST Charles MO
hey Ken.................it says to hold the can upside down right in the instructions and in the video from the website. If damage happens to pistons inside a compressor, from this particular product that auto zone sells everyday, im sure they would become liable for any damages and so would Quest products! If you could please provide any documented evidence of damage from the "Cool Zone #390 complete recharge kit" I will definately campaign against their product.
They Guarantee it to be safe for any vehicle, and still claim to have had no complaints about any damage from their product.
They Guarantee it to be safe for any vehicle, and still claim to have had no complaints about any damage from their product.
yes......It is an 850!
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