98 V70XC P0131, P0137 Codes Help

Post by **jblackburn** » 22 Feb 2010, 09:14

2-3 "drive cycles". Have you seen this? (2nd post)

How to Complete a Drive Cycle

If you haven't got it up to highway speed, that's probably what it's waiting on.

The smoke through the vents is likely a clogged PCV system blowing fumes out your engine seals. That needs to be taken care of SOON to avoid a more costly repair.

As for the suspension noise, there are several things to check. First and most common is the upper spring seats. Give the top of each strut tower under the hood a twist with your hand. It shouldn't do this:

If those are ok, give the sway bar end-links a good tugging on.

mamali · Post by **mamali** » 22 Feb 2010, 12:03

Thanks hopefully check engine light will not come back on if it does dont know.

mamali · Post by **mamali** » 22 Feb 2010, 13:07

How do you check if a PVC is plugged? What is the fix? Thanks

Post by **jblackburn** » 22 Feb 2010, 13:10

The quick & easy test is to get the engine good & warmed up with a 10-min drive or so, and then pull out the oil dipstick with the engine idling. If you see smoke coming out of there, it needs to be cleaned. If you don't see smoke, get a piece of paper or something and hold it over the oil filler hole. It should suck in slightly - this means that it's ventilating properly.

Check out these links for cleaning:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... el-98-v70/

http://www.lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/index.html

mamali · Post by **mamali** » 23 Feb 2010, 08:13

First off let me say you guys are amazing and thanks for all of your help. I wish I had checked on the problems when I first bought the car would have junked it.

After ran for 10 minutes it does smoke from the dipstick!!! What parts do i need. What goes wrong when the car has been driven with a clogged PCV? Will a Clogged PCv trigger the check Engine light? Thanks

Post by **jblackburn** » 23 Feb 2010, 08:40

You'll need to get this kit.

Really, you can do without getting the whole kit if you're careful, but in my frustration with the cold and trying to get things off, I ended up snapping several of the brittle plastic hoses under the intake manifold, so it was a good thing I got the whole kit.

A clogged PCV system will push oil out of any seal possible, whether it is your oil cap, or worse, your engine seals. If it blows out the RMS, that one is a major pain to replace, as the transmission has to be removed to get to it.

Any of these cars has its share of problems at this age...once you get them ironed out though, you'll have one of the best 12-year old cars still on the road

mamali · Post by **mamali** » 23 Feb 2010, 08:42

What is a RMS??

Post by **jblackburn** » 23 Feb 2010, 08:46

Sorry, technical jargon

Rear main seal. It holds the engine's blood (oil) in between the crankshaft and transmission. Most of them leak to some extent, mine included, but if they blow out or start leaking profusely, they're very expensive to replace. I thought I had killed mine just a couple weeks ago, but it turned out to be an easy-to-replace cam seal. I guess I was lucky

mamali · Post by **mamali** » 23 Feb 2010, 14:26

I think my RMS already leaks!!!!

Post by **jblackburn** » 23 Feb 2010, 14:31

Probably so - they all do at an older age - mine still does a small bit too now that I fixed the other oil leak, but if it's not leaking uncontrollably, there is no shame in just keeping the oil level up until it starts leaking at an alarming rate.

Before I cleaned the PCV system, I'd use about 1/2 a quart every 5,000 miles. Not bad at all for a 10-year old turbo engine.

Several here say they have had success with a RMS stop-leak product. I have never tried it myself, but if yours is leaking badly and you don't have the $900+ to shell out to change the seal, I'd say it's worth a shot.

98 V70XC P0131, P0137 Codes Help

Re: 98 V70XC P0131, P0137 Codes Help