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My Poor Car Sputters

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1975 - 1993 240
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kushballz

My Poor Car Sputters

Post by kushballz »

My car sputters while around 5-20mph while driving. It acts like it doesn't want any gas. The car will not accelerate, and often die. When I come to a stop, sometimes it dies, and continues to sputter. Sometimes when i'm stopped, i'll shift it into neutral, and raise the rpms. The result of that makes the engine choke, randomly die, spin around less than 300 rpm, and randomly surge to over 5000 rpm. After those 5 minutes of waiting and restarting the car, it will continue as a normal operating car. All the (engine) electrical is new, new air filter, new fuel filter, and new gas. The car will not sputter for the first 30 secs of driving, but will sputter after that, then resume to normal operation after 5 mins. The fuel pressure is acceptable, intake is clean, and the exhaust is new (catalytic converter replaced in februrary, and the rest [except the manifold] replaced in 2004). Also, the injectors are clean, and working properly.

Kmaniac in California USA
Posts: 301
Joined: 15 January 2005
Year and Model:
Location: Concord, California USA
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Kmaniac in California USA »

Sounds like you have a frustrating situation. Please note that you didn't reveal the year, model or engine of your car.

I don't know if I am on the right track, but it sounds like you may have something floating in your gas tank. I once encountered similar symtoms in a carbureted Japanese car years ago. I suggest the following:

Check the in-tank fuel pump fuse in your fuse box and verify whether or not it is blown. If blown, your should replace your in-tank pump and inspect the fuel pick up filter sock.

Pull the fuel tank pick up and sender unit assembly from your gas tank. Be sure your fuel level is below half and/or as low as possible. You will find a removable hatch in the floor of your trunk that will allow you access to this assembly.

Once removed, shine a light into the tank and check for foreign debris and remove as needed. Also inspect the condition of the fuel pick up filter sock on the end of the in-tank fuel pump. If this sock is deteriorated in any way, replace the sock and the in-tank pump as a unit. Then change the main fuel pump under the car. Any contamination that passes through a deteriorated filter sock will cause irrepairable damage to both the in-tank pump and main fuel pump, because the main fuel filter is downstream of both fuel pumps. Although they may continue to function, they are surely unreliable. I learned this one from personal experience. You can review my post on this subject from last fall.

Let us know what you find.
Chris the "K MANIAC"

1986 740 GLE

(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's

kushballz

Post by kushballz »

Oh yeah, Sorry about not posting the car details, I thought I was logged in and would come up as my footer...

1985 Volvo 240 Wagon
Fuel Injection
RWD 4 Spd Auto


Once the car gets warmed up it will work absolutly fine. In the summer the car works well, but it is a cold temperature problem. So thats why I'm sure its not anything to do with inside the tank. Thanks so far though

kushballz

Post by kushballz »

Oh yeah, Sorry about not posting the car details, I thought I was logged in and would come up as my footer...

1985 Volvo 240 Wagon
B230F 2.3L 114HP
Fuel Injection
RWD 4 Spd Auto


Once the car gets warmed up it will work absolutly fine. In the summer the car works well, but it is a cold temperature problem. So thats why I'm sure its not anything to do with inside the tank. Thanks so far though

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