Need help reviving a 67 wagon
Re: Need help reviving a 67 wagon
I found a cheap pressure bleeder locally. I will attempt to clean out the lines on Sat. I also have an air compressor that has a rubber-tipped attachment on the blower nozzle. I think I will be able to force out all the old fluid/stuff in the lines. Thanks again!
Okay, I had a chance to install the new clutch slave cylinder (see pic above (thanks Matt!))..... it seemed to work perfectly. I had to adjust the nut on the push rod because the new slave was slightly different, very easy to do. After bleeding the line, the clutch seemed to be working perfectly. I didn't touch the clutch master cylinder because it seemed to be functioning properly. It was pushing fluid when I pushed the clutch pedal so I left it alone.
I also reinstalled the brake master cylinder after taking it apart and cleaning it thoroughly (see pic above). I used the vacuum bleeder kit I got from Harbor Freight Tools to bleed the lines. It was cheap ($24) and cheesy but did the job. I bled both rear brakes by pulling the fluid through the lines with the bleeder tool. The new brake fluid was clear (not cloudy like the old fluid) so I basically sucked out all the old fluid until I saw the new fluid come through. With the old fluid came some debris. I felt good about the bleeding.
After we finished we hopped in the car for a short spin around the block. Keep in mind, I disconnected the fuel line to the tank because I didn't want to run the 10 year old fuel through the system. I have a small one gallon tank "MacGyvered" into the engine compartment (does anyone remember the show MacGyver?). I have a 1-1/2" socket jammed into the mouth of the fuel tank with the fuel hose shoved into the 3/8 in square hole....... not OSHA approved to say the least.
Anyway........ it's about 8pm now (dark outside) and we take off down the block. The clutch works great and we are in first gear driving along. I push the clutch in to shift into second gear and the clutch now won't disengage...... damn! The master clutch cylinder seal burst. Looking back, I probably should have spent the $20 and bought the rebuild kit. This car is totally foreign to me and I am stuck in first gear, in the dark, (I forgot to mention that I live in a hilly neighborhood). So I'm trying to find a good place to flip a u-turn so I don't have to stop the car (thus pushing it home...... in my hilly neighborhood). The whole time I'm thinking about my non-OSHA approves MacGyvered gas tank sloshing around under the hood. So I see a break in traffic and flip a u-turn. We made it back to the house- barely.
I didn't want to wait for snail mail so I went down to my local independent Volvo shop and bought the rebuild kit (see pic below). It was stocked and cost me $45! I plan to rebuild the cylinder and reinstall it tomorrow. After the test drive incident, I also plan to rebuild the brake master cylinder too. I will order that one online and install it next week.
I also reinstalled the brake master cylinder after taking it apart and cleaning it thoroughly (see pic above). I used the vacuum bleeder kit I got from Harbor Freight Tools to bleed the lines. It was cheap ($24) and cheesy but did the job. I bled both rear brakes by pulling the fluid through the lines with the bleeder tool. The new brake fluid was clear (not cloudy like the old fluid) so I basically sucked out all the old fluid until I saw the new fluid come through. With the old fluid came some debris. I felt good about the bleeding.
After we finished we hopped in the car for a short spin around the block. Keep in mind, I disconnected the fuel line to the tank because I didn't want to run the 10 year old fuel through the system. I have a small one gallon tank "MacGyvered" into the engine compartment (does anyone remember the show MacGyver?). I have a 1-1/2" socket jammed into the mouth of the fuel tank with the fuel hose shoved into the 3/8 in square hole....... not OSHA approved to say the least.
Anyway........ it's about 8pm now (dark outside) and we take off down the block. The clutch works great and we are in first gear driving along. I push the clutch in to shift into second gear and the clutch now won't disengage...... damn! The master clutch cylinder seal burst. Looking back, I probably should have spent the $20 and bought the rebuild kit. This car is totally foreign to me and I am stuck in first gear, in the dark, (I forgot to mention that I live in a hilly neighborhood). So I'm trying to find a good place to flip a u-turn so I don't have to stop the car (thus pushing it home...... in my hilly neighborhood). The whole time I'm thinking about my non-OSHA approves MacGyvered gas tank sloshing around under the hood. So I see a break in traffic and flip a u-turn. We made it back to the house- barely.
I didn't want to wait for snail mail so I went down to my local independent Volvo shop and bought the rebuild kit (see pic below). It was stocked and cost me $45! I plan to rebuild the cylinder and reinstall it tomorrow. After the test drive incident, I also plan to rebuild the brake master cylinder too. I will order that one online and install it next week.
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Today I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder. The pics are out of order as they upload backwards.
The first picture is of the rebuilt cylinder. I labeled additional each photo....
Read this section last...... After finishing the job, I drove the car around the block and the clutch worked perfectly, but I found the brakes were soft. I still think the brake master cyl is good because there is no leaking from the dust cover attached to the brake pedal, but will buy the rebuild kit just in case. I assume the leaks are at the wheels. Wheel cylinders are only a few bucks so I plan to place an order this weekend. I'm tired of paying $45 for parts I can buy online for $15 (sorry independent volvo mechanic, you need to find another sucker to pay for your kid's college tuition).
The first picture is of the rebuilt cylinder. I labeled additional each photo....
Read this section last...... After finishing the job, I drove the car around the block and the clutch worked perfectly, but I found the brakes were soft. I still think the brake master cyl is good because there is no leaking from the dust cover attached to the brake pedal, but will buy the rebuild kit just in case. I assume the leaks are at the wheels. Wheel cylinders are only a few bucks so I plan to place an order this weekend. I'm tired of paying $45 for parts I can buy online for $15 (sorry independent volvo mechanic, you need to find another sucker to pay for your kid's college tuition).
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- Here is what the guts of the cylinder looked like. It was a pain in the &$$ getting it apart. The biggest problem seems to be lack of knowledge on my part...... I did admit in an earlier post that I'm not a car guy. Just imagine a confused ape holding the cylinder in hand and scratching his head with the other. Okay, back to the car.... There is a spring keeper ring under the dust cover thingy that removes easily. When you pull the pin, everything on the right side of the pic pops out (piece of cake!). It allows you access to the little piston inside. This is the confusing part..... you can press on the piston and it springs back and forth, but doesn't come out. I go inside and grab my $45 rebuild kit (the little plastic bag that feels just like a free toy in a Happy Meal.... I got screwed on that one). And the $45 kit didn't even have any instructions. Google was my next option...... no help there. I'm on my own here. I lube everything up, and even remove the little fitting on top thinking that it would help, it didn't. That damn little piston is pissing me off now! So with some cussing (and I'm ashamed to say, a few tears) I start working the piston like crazy. After 5 minutes, I noticed the piston is now traveling to the edge of the cylinder housing! Another minute and she's out! The center portion in the photo is out and ready to rebuild. I used some wd40 and thoroughly cleaned all the parts. I rebuilt the cylinder and threw it back on the car.
Bleeding the cylinder required opening the fitting on the top of the master. I am sharing this valuable information with you free of charge. Trust me..... after 20 minutes of pumping the clutch (thanks to my impatient 11 year old son), and opening and closing the bleeder valve on the slave (under the car), we realized that the air trapped in the top bend of the tubing would only come out after you crack the top fitting......
....your welcome.
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- This is what the cylinder looked like when I removed from the car. The crystalized old fluid and worn dust rubber thingy is exactly the way the slave looked when I removed it from the car.
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- It's bolted onto the firewall and the rod pokes through and bolts directly to the clutch pedal. You can see the fluid seeping through the dust rubber 'thingy'.
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- This is what it looks like on the car, before and after rebuild (lol!).
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- Doesn't she look happy! She's finally getting some much needed attention after being parked in a garage for 10 years.
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Today we got the following in the mail:
Plugs
Wires
Distributor cap
Rotor
Oil filter
Spring kits for front discs (just in case)
2 New front wheel cylinders
2 New rear wheel cylinders
Will pick-up some oil locally and will get busy on Sat.
We are hitting the wall on the air cleaners. It seems like replacement ones are tough to get and/or expensive. If anyone has a solution, it would be appreciated. The old ones are steel and have paper filters glued in. I guess they were supposed to be disposable. I'm thinking about cleaning out the old paper filter and using the steel housing with a new filter fitted into it. A little tacky but will get the job done. I haven't had any luck finding a new filter to fit into the old housing. It's 5-3/4" round by 2" high.
Plugs
Wires
Distributor cap
Rotor
Oil filter
Spring kits for front discs (just in case)
2 New front wheel cylinders
2 New rear wheel cylinders
Will pick-up some oil locally and will get busy on Sat.
We are hitting the wall on the air cleaners. It seems like replacement ones are tough to get and/or expensive. If anyone has a solution, it would be appreciated. The old ones are steel and have paper filters glued in. I guess they were supposed to be disposable. I'm thinking about cleaning out the old paper filter and using the steel housing with a new filter fitted into it. A little tacky but will get the job done. I haven't had any luck finding a new filter to fit into the old housing. It's 5-3/4" round by 2" high.
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mcdermd
- Posts: 19
- Joined: 15 February 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 XC90 2.5T AWD
- Location: Corvallis, OR
K&N used to make air filters for the old SU carbs. Looks like IPD sells them. They also have the paper filters.
2004 XC90 2.5T AWD
7 Pasenger
7 Pasenger
Wow! I have a 67 wagon as well and let me tell you I love it! Tons of fun too.
Some very useful sites are:
http://www.ipdusa.com
http://www.vintageimportparts.com/amazon.pdf
http://www.swedishtreasures.com
It's amazing isnt it? These cars can sit for years and start fine. My old 68 sedan had sat for 8 years and started immediately.
Air filters can be a bit pricey. (http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-122/Engine/ ... -110-1000/)
Also, check out brickboard.com, you can get alot of help with the older models there.
Do your air filters have two or three bolts? If you are have other parts on your list, the air filters can wait. It will run fine with no filters on for a while.
The drain on the tanks are usually very tight, or frozen. Unfortunately, no one sells tanks for the wagons. I had my 56 444's gas tank redone for $150.
Be careful of the brakes, usually when they sit, the lines dry up and when you go to use them, they crack. Maybe you'll get lucky?
If your master cylinder becomes a problem, IPD sells them for 125 (http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPa ... &V_ID=3220) and I believe there are some on ebay for the single line system for around $80.
Looks like your on the right track. Keep us posted!
Some very useful sites are:
http://www.ipdusa.com
http://www.vintageimportparts.com/amazon.pdf
http://www.swedishtreasures.com
It's amazing isnt it? These cars can sit for years and start fine. My old 68 sedan had sat for 8 years and started immediately.
Air filters can be a bit pricey. (http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-122/Engine/ ... -110-1000/)
Also, check out brickboard.com, you can get alot of help with the older models there.
Do your air filters have two or three bolts? If you are have other parts on your list, the air filters can wait. It will run fine with no filters on for a while.
The drain on the tanks are usually very tight, or frozen. Unfortunately, no one sells tanks for the wagons. I had my 56 444's gas tank redone for $150.
Be careful of the brakes, usually when they sit, the lines dry up and when you go to use them, they crack. Maybe you'll get lucky?
If your master cylinder becomes a problem, IPD sells them for 125 (http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPa ... &V_ID=3220) and I believe there are some on ebay for the single line system for around $80.
Looks like your on the right track. Keep us posted!
Thanks for the help. I'm so tired of searching for a solution to the air filter problem (3 bolt) that $80 pair on the link you guys provided is a real bargain.
I'm a little worried about the brake master cylinder. It seems to hold pressure, but who knows.....I will keep the ebay option open. I am anxious to get to the tank job but so many other things need to get done that are more fun. I really hope that drain plug comes out. If it won't, I might just pay and have it cleaned at a shop. Brake lines- I want to block up the car this weekend and really get a good look at the entire brake system. I will take some good photos of process to share on the forum.
I'm a little worried about the brake master cylinder. It seems to hold pressure, but who knows.....I will keep the ebay option open. I am anxious to get to the tank job but so many other things need to get done that are more fun. I really hope that drain plug comes out. If it won't, I might just pay and have it cleaned at a shop. Brake lines- I want to block up the car this weekend and really get a good look at the entire brake system. I will take some good photos of process to share on the forum.
I finally had a chance to work on the car. I did a full tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points. I also did an oil change. It is running great.
After all the fun stuff, I jacked up the car to check the brakes...... again. I keep losing fluid somewhere but it isn't visible on the ground. I didn't realize that brake booster had a leak, and the brake fluid was getting into the engine (crap!). After attempting to bleed them a few times, the car refused to start (double crap!!). The battery was a little bit low, so with a 20 minute charge, and with maximum cranking power, she fired! She was running rough and putting out a HUGE amount of white smoke! I would have taken a picture, but was too busy praying I didn't screw up the motor.
Anyway.... it took 20 minutes of running to stop smoking.
I was able to drain the old fuel from the tank. The plug came out easily. The fuel looked clear and there wasn't much water. I put some fresh fuel in and she's running off the fuel tank now.
In addition to the work listeded above, I also had the radiator rebuilt. It was apparently plugged. New hoses, clamps, thermostat, and belt (since it was all apart anyway).
Any suggestions with the booster? I read on the brick forum that some guys removed the booster all together. They made up a little manifold out of pipe with brass fittings to recieve the brake lines. The old boosters are expensive, hard to find, and don't seem to help much (so I hear).
After all the fun stuff, I jacked up the car to check the brakes...... again. I keep losing fluid somewhere but it isn't visible on the ground. I didn't realize that brake booster had a leak, and the brake fluid was getting into the engine (crap!). After attempting to bleed them a few times, the car refused to start (double crap!!). The battery was a little bit low, so with a 20 minute charge, and with maximum cranking power, she fired! She was running rough and putting out a HUGE amount of white smoke! I would have taken a picture, but was too busy praying I didn't screw up the motor.
Anyway.... it took 20 minutes of running to stop smoking.
I was able to drain the old fuel from the tank. The plug came out easily. The fuel looked clear and there wasn't much water. I put some fresh fuel in and she's running off the fuel tank now.
In addition to the work listeded above, I also had the radiator rebuilt. It was apparently plugged. New hoses, clamps, thermostat, and belt (since it was all apart anyway).
Any suggestions with the booster? I read on the brick forum that some guys removed the booster all together. They made up a little manifold out of pipe with brass fittings to recieve the brake lines. The old boosters are expensive, hard to find, and don't seem to help much (so I hear).
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polskamafia mjl
- Posts: 2640
- Joined: 1 April 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 T-5R
- Location: Hershey, PA
- Has thanked: 19 times
- Been thanked: 21 times
Wow...good work for a first time classic car project! Kepp it up. I love the pictures!! 
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Okay, I'm not proud of it.......
After pumping brake fluid into the intake manifold (and engine block), I decided to temporarily bypass the power booster all together. I got this idea from the brick forum. It does the job, but I feel a little dirty after doing it. I am hoping to install a better system (power booster and master cylinder). I saw someone install a triumph system that looked really clean.
After pumping brake fluid into the intake manifold (and engine block), I decided to temporarily bypass the power booster all together. I got this idea from the brick forum. It does the job, but I feel a little dirty after doing it. I am hoping to install a better system (power booster and master cylinder). I saw someone install a triumph system that looked really clean.
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