I'm back to pick your collective brains again.
I've basically become a born-again mechanic after seeing the estimates my Volvo dealer
happily dispenses at every service. I figure to keep my Volvo I have to learn how to pamper
my baby. I have a 1997 Volvo 850 GLT with 81K and a 1997 Volvo 850 GLT with 230K that
I'm looking to love. [I am a little confused by the use of the term Turbo by Volvo. Our dealer
has always said our GLT is not a Turbo [GLT = Grand Lux Turbo] but then I read that some
form of turbo technology was used to boost our 5254T engine to 190Hp.] Back to tools...
I'm basically looking for ideals and suggestions for collecting tools for effectively working on
my Volvo. I've got the metric socket set. As I read many of the tutorials folks often mention
a handy tool for doing things in tight spaces, like getting to the SAS check valve. The tool
I want is often in a set costing $100. Repeat this and things get expensive. Seems like
I run into a lot of 10mm and 12mm along with T20,T25,T30,T40. Got these.
I'd love to find a tool set with 90% of what I need. Craftsman seems to have an endless supply
of tool sets. Their warranty seems to give their basic hand tools a real advantage.
One tool I need is the serpentine belt tool. I've seen a lot of posts raving about the IPD serpentine
belts tools as a must. Sears sells a similar serpentine belt tool that has many optional fitting such
that it will work over any car. Is there something uniquely better about the IPD tools?
Next comes Torque wrenches. I need one of these and they seem to run from $29 to $400. The
small writing that indicates these wrenches need to be calibrated on a regular basis concerns me.
Which wrenches are the best and most reliable ones for working on my Volvo? Now I've seem some of these
torque wrenches that are very long.
My first application is going to be a complete overhaul of the timing belt system and replacing the
water pump. This sure seems like a limited amount of space. I suspect many of you have a set of
torque wrenches on your bench. At this point I'm looking for suggestions on a torque wrench that
will get me through the timing belt, water pump, and PCV overhauls.
IPD also sells a little torque dial that attaches to a 1/2" drive. Is this a must half gadget?
With that said, I read a lot of tutorials that don't say a lot about torque. My understanding is that
every bolt on the engine (car) has a specified torque specification. Are these folks leaving this off or
do a lot of mechanics not worry about the torque on bolts? Just add lock-tight and your set...
One example is the PCV tutorial I found on line. I don't recall seeing much on torque settings but I
believe the fact that this system is bolted on to the engine means that you need to follow the torque
settings. Or does 'lock tight' stuff do a good job of keeps bolts from coming loose. Clearly it makes
sense to stick to torque values for items driven off belts, water pump, pullies, etc.
Hopefully I get some useful comments regarding tools. I'm not planning to touch anything until I'm fully
ready. I've read several tutorials on timing belt and PCV overhauls. The only question remaining for
me is the right tools for the job. I'm confident at this point that I can do several of these unit replacements.
Right now I'm trying to minimize the number of trips to Sears in order to buy tools during the job.
And of course I'll start on my 850 with 230K as my training vehicle (potential parts car if things
go wildly wrong).
These forums are the best thing I've discovered since becoming a born-again mechanic. It's like
the scripture for mechanics. It only took me 13 years to find it but better late than never. I'm hoping
my 81K 850 lasts me 5-10 years (unless I turn it into a parts car too). :^)
Thanks,
David
Preferred Tools for Volvo Maintenance Seeking Expert Advice
-
1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
-
jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
I replied to your other post and it looks like you've already got the torx drivers and metric sockets, but I'll offer a bit on the torque wrench. A 10-100 lb wrench is OK for most applications. I highly suggest getting a wrench with both metric and US measurements on the same wrench...my dad's that I use when I need to do something big is about 20 years old and only has lbs on it, which is annoying to convert to Nm. I can't afford to splurge on one myself, but I'd definitely like to have one.
It does need to be calibrated every 2 years or so, more if you use it a lot.
You don't really need to torque anything for the PCV system...hand-tight is perfectly fine for the intake manifold.
Oh, and a 97 GLT IS a turbo - light-pressure turbo on a slightly upgraded 2.4L engine. 94-96 GLT models were not.
It does need to be calibrated every 2 years or so, more if you use it a lot.
You don't really need to torque anything for the PCV system...hand-tight is perfectly fine for the intake manifold.
Oh, and a 97 GLT IS a turbo - light-pressure turbo on a slightly upgraded 2.4L engine. 94-96 GLT models were not.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
-
1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks.
I suspected that there was some form of turbo technology involved in boosting from the standard 168Hp
to 190Hp but the specs and the dealer don't refer to it as a turbo. In the manual, of the four
engine specified, mine is the only one that does not indicate Turbo. The T at the end of the engine number
would be a sign but the Hayes manual states that not all cars with these engines are in fact turbo.
The air filter box does not have Turbo in large letters printed on it. It almost seems like the higher pressure
turbo technology is what folks typically refer to as Turbo.
How different is a low-pressure turbo from a high pressure turbo? 30+ Hp more. Seems like to there are
a few more things in the way in the photos I've seem that have the TURBO logo on air cleaner.
You've cleared up any confusion.
Thanks,
David
I suspected that there was some form of turbo technology involved in boosting from the standard 168Hp
to 190Hp but the specs and the dealer don't refer to it as a turbo. In the manual, of the four
engine specified, mine is the only one that does not indicate Turbo. The T at the end of the engine number
would be a sign but the Hayes manual states that not all cars with these engines are in fact turbo.
The air filter box does not have Turbo in large letters printed on it. It almost seems like the higher pressure
turbo technology is what folks typically refer to as Turbo.
How different is a low-pressure turbo from a high pressure turbo? 30+ Hp more. Seems like to there are
a few more things in the way in the photos I've seem that have the TURBO logo on air cleaner.
You've cleared up any confusion.
Thanks,
David
On tools,
I thought the accepted method of gathering a collection was to wait till you needed a particular tool and then run to the nearest store multiple times as needed. The IPD serpentine tool works great but so will many other things. A bunch of folks have gotten creative and built their own from plumbing parts. Saves half the cost if that matters. I am no mechanic, wish I knew more, but from this forum I have stepped out and completed many maintenance tasks. Did the PCV overhaul, replaced my heater core and all coolant hoses, completed the timing belt and water pump, replaced my dash. I have never used a torque wrench, don't own one. It was explained to me that if you are not taking the block apart, don't worry about. I think Lee likes to use the "gutentight" approach. So for things hanging off the blocks, make it tight but not too tight. Rebuilding a block, over hauling an engine, better have that torque wrench. Thats me and I am not a professional here. I do recommend getting the flex- gear wrench type wrenchs (craftsman make them too I think) in at least the 10mm and 12mm sizes. The flex aspect is important. I have the 3/8's drive socket set with extra extensions, an extendable mirror, an extendable magnet. You have torque drivers, I think they are callled that. I found it useful to have both the screwdrivers type and the socket fittings too. Some of those fasteners are really locked in. You will probably find that several times it is nice to have the common tools in different configurations, ie screwdriver with handle, socket fitting, and even allen wrench style. Might as well wait till you find the need for it. My experiences to come with my car are limited. I will never pull the block apart and will never take the block or transaxle out. I figure I saved quite abit doing what I have so far and I feel better about doing it too. My need was like yours. The longer I kept the car the more things were coming up. I couldn't see handing it off to even my favorite shop every time something was needed. Later on the repairs morphed into doing maintenance items like flushing the transaxle, steering, and brakes system. I was shy about jumping in and trying things but sure glad now that I have. Big thanks to this forum and the folks who went before to offer their advice. Mike
I thought the accepted method of gathering a collection was to wait till you needed a particular tool and then run to the nearest store multiple times as needed. The IPD serpentine tool works great but so will many other things. A bunch of folks have gotten creative and built their own from plumbing parts. Saves half the cost if that matters. I am no mechanic, wish I knew more, but from this forum I have stepped out and completed many maintenance tasks. Did the PCV overhaul, replaced my heater core and all coolant hoses, completed the timing belt and water pump, replaced my dash. I have never used a torque wrench, don't own one. It was explained to me that if you are not taking the block apart, don't worry about. I think Lee likes to use the "gutentight" approach. So for things hanging off the blocks, make it tight but not too tight. Rebuilding a block, over hauling an engine, better have that torque wrench. Thats me and I am not a professional here. I do recommend getting the flex- gear wrench type wrenchs (craftsman make them too I think) in at least the 10mm and 12mm sizes. The flex aspect is important. I have the 3/8's drive socket set with extra extensions, an extendable mirror, an extendable magnet. You have torque drivers, I think they are callled that. I found it useful to have both the screwdrivers type and the socket fittings too. Some of those fasteners are really locked in. You will probably find that several times it is nice to have the common tools in different configurations, ie screwdriver with handle, socket fitting, and even allen wrench style. Might as well wait till you find the need for it. My experiences to come with my car are limited. I will never pull the block apart and will never take the block or transaxle out. I figure I saved quite abit doing what I have so far and I feel better about doing it too. My need was like yours. The longer I kept the car the more things were coming up. I couldn't see handing it off to even my favorite shop every time something was needed. Later on the repairs morphed into doing maintenance items like flushing the transaxle, steering, and brakes system. I was shy about jumping in and trying things but sure glad now that I have. Big thanks to this forum and the folks who went before to offer their advice. Mike
-
dcarlson12
- Posts: 514
- Joined: 2 July 2008
- Year and Model: 1997 850 T5
- Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
- Been thanked: 2 times
I helped my son do his timing belt and when removing the serpentine belt I just made an L shaped spacer out of 1/8 thick by 1/2" wide flat bar. I cut a piece about an inch and a half long and bent it into an equal sided L shape. I had to trim the length of the legs so that it would fit into the square hole of the tensioner (i.e. held in vise and then bent it with a hammer, and used a belt grinder to shorten the legs and remove sharpe corners and edges). Once inserted, the remaining square hole was now the size that suited my 1/2" drive ratchet. Thus the ratchet was used to 'untension' the tensioner to remove the belt and was also used to 'untension' it when reinstalling the belt.
-
jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
More or less, your car is exactly like my T5. The plumbing, pipes, everything is the same as a regular 850 Turbo model. The difference is that you've got a smaller turbo that boosts up at low RPM's, giving you quick off-the-line power that runs out around 3000, whereas mine just starts to pick up around 2500. You also have the Motronic 4.4 ECU that was introduced in the entire S/V70 line and the 97 GLT models.
The 2.3 (T5) engine has better valves that enable it to handle more boost, etc, and a couple other differences. I think the connecting rods in the 5244T are actually the same as the T5, but I'm not 100% sure on that. They are upgraded from the N/A engines, though. If you want to have the ECU reprogrammed, that little turbo will boost 8-10 PSI without any more modification, making it as fast as a T5, only with much more off-the-line power (mine's a cow until the turbo kicks in).
The 2.3 (T5) engine has better valves that enable it to handle more boost, etc, and a couple other differences. I think the connecting rods in the 5244T are actually the same as the T5, but I'm not 100% sure on that. They are upgraded from the N/A engines, though. If you want to have the ECU reprogrammed, that little turbo will boost 8-10 PSI without any more modification, making it as fast as a T5, only with much more off-the-line power (mine's a cow until the turbo kicks in).
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
-
whoa
- Posts: 461
- Joined: 30 July 2008
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo Wagon 1996
- Location: san francisco
- Been thanked: 1 time
Yeah, improvize something to let your 1/2" socket wrench do the serpentine tensioner. I cut a short piece of angle stock much like the poster above.
Harbor Freight is your friend for tools.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=45951
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=66317
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92079
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38846
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=34271
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... number=239
Harbor Freight is your friend for tools.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=45951
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=66317
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92079
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38846
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=34271
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... number=239
1996 850 Turbo Wagon
-
whoa
- Posts: 461
- Joined: 30 July 2008
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo Wagon 1996
- Location: san francisco
- Been thanked: 1 time
Other things that will come in handy: vise-grip pliers, wire strippers, soldering iron & solder, measuring calipers, gloves, coveralls, hand-cleaning goop (I use "Fast Orange"), utility knife, tiny (jeweler's) screwdrivers, bungee cords, tire iron, soft face hammer, regular hammer, hacksaw, file, sandpaper, small digital camera (it's your eyes in blind places, your magnifying glass, and your web-forum problem clarifier), mirror, rags, PB Blaster (parts de-ruster/loosener).
1996 850 Turbo Wagon
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wheelsup
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: 28 June 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Raleigh, NC
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 20 times
I was in your position maybe 4 years ago. Except I had recently graduated college and just couldn't put $$ into having someone work on my car.
I picked up a Craftsman tool set around turkey day when they are on ridiculously low priced sales. Half off or more. I think around 260 pieces. Any set like that will have various sockets in 6 (most important) and 12 point configs.
Swivel/universal joint connectors, don't cheap out I got Craftsman.
Definitely vice grips, but don't go cheap. Go to Lowes and get the original. I have a set that has a big one and a small one.
For the T45 for the timing belt I tried several out including some name brand stuff at Sears but Harbor Freight had the best fit set: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=91255
Get some various extensions at Harbor Freight.
My latest purchase at Harbor Freight was an engine hoist, that tells you have far I've come in the last 3-4 years
.
I picked up a 1/2" 3' breaker bar at Advance Auto but you can get them anywhere. Then I went to Lowes with it and found a 4' pipe that fit over the handle.
I have a cheapie torque wrench and every time I've used it to put on bolts other than my lug nuts I end up snapping them off or close to it.
I picked up a Craftsman tool set around turkey day when they are on ridiculously low priced sales. Half off or more. I think around 260 pieces. Any set like that will have various sockets in 6 (most important) and 12 point configs.
Swivel/universal joint connectors, don't cheap out I got Craftsman.
Definitely vice grips, but don't go cheap. Go to Lowes and get the original. I have a set that has a big one and a small one.
For the T45 for the timing belt I tried several out including some name brand stuff at Sears but Harbor Freight had the best fit set: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=91255
Get some various extensions at Harbor Freight.
My latest purchase at Harbor Freight was an engine hoist, that tells you have far I've come in the last 3-4 years
I picked up a 1/2" 3' breaker bar at Advance Auto but you can get them anywhere. Then I went to Lowes with it and found a 4' pipe that fit over the handle.
I have a cheapie torque wrench and every time I've used it to put on bolts other than my lug nuts I end up snapping them off or close to it.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
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1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks for the very helpful tool tips. Taking next week off for taxes and PCV replacement. Will be
shopping for tools shortly.
I notice a lot of posts mentioning 1/2" drive. I'm not sure if I should mention my current socket
wrench is 3/8". If size matters then I'm in trouble. Seriously, before I buy a bunch of additional
gadgets should I consider switching to a 1/2" drive socket? Are my options opened wider with
a 1/2" drive?
Even though I've heard a lot of bad things about the 850 I still like both of my 850s. We purchased
#1 after my wife flipped our Camry in 96 and was lucky to survive. Our only criteria was to buy the
safest car made and we ended up with the 1997 Volvo 850 GLT.
When I see Volvo's Volvo 850 crash test on youtube, where they drive the 850 off a cliff, I think to myself that
my wife is capable of doing this by mistake. The newer crash video I've seen seem to imply crashes only
occur a 5-10mph. Is the car 5* safe as long as I'm going 5MPH when I crash?
We've always taken it to the dealer but recently they wanted $2,000-$3,000 to get her past inspection. So
in looking around at possible replacements I didn't see a modern version of my 850 that didn't look like a
Ford Focus. My only choice is to hook er up to life support and fix her. I bought a second 850 with 80K and
have garaged the 850 with 230K for repairs. I'm in no rush. In two or three years I will be doing much more.
I may even get my 850 running by then.
The beauty is that there is SO much information available about the 850. Original Volvo docs. I love the 15 page
PDF that just discussed the technology in the 850 engine. The only weakness is that you basically need Volvo
computers to do the difficult diagnostics. Got a quote today for $400-$3000 to eliminate Check Engine light for
"Fuel mixture too rich in Bank 1" in 850 #2. Yikes! Do banks offer car improvement loans.
I do think it would be useful if contributors came up with a standard for producing tutorials, like listing necessary parts,
tools, torque specs, tech level required etc at the beginning of the tutorials.
In any event, the tutorials here have way more pictures than the Hayes manual. I don't believe I can rely on the Hayes
manual as much as I can on this site and its experts.
Thanks
shopping for tools shortly.
I notice a lot of posts mentioning 1/2" drive. I'm not sure if I should mention my current socket
wrench is 3/8". If size matters then I'm in trouble. Seriously, before I buy a bunch of additional
gadgets should I consider switching to a 1/2" drive socket? Are my options opened wider with
a 1/2" drive?
Even though I've heard a lot of bad things about the 850 I still like both of my 850s. We purchased
#1 after my wife flipped our Camry in 96 and was lucky to survive. Our only criteria was to buy the
safest car made and we ended up with the 1997 Volvo 850 GLT.
When I see Volvo's Volvo 850 crash test on youtube, where they drive the 850 off a cliff, I think to myself that
my wife is capable of doing this by mistake. The newer crash video I've seen seem to imply crashes only
occur a 5-10mph. Is the car 5* safe as long as I'm going 5MPH when I crash?
We've always taken it to the dealer but recently they wanted $2,000-$3,000 to get her past inspection. So
in looking around at possible replacements I didn't see a modern version of my 850 that didn't look like a
Ford Focus. My only choice is to hook er up to life support and fix her. I bought a second 850 with 80K and
have garaged the 850 with 230K for repairs. I'm in no rush. In two or three years I will be doing much more.
I may even get my 850 running by then.
The beauty is that there is SO much information available about the 850. Original Volvo docs. I love the 15 page
PDF that just discussed the technology in the 850 engine. The only weakness is that you basically need Volvo
computers to do the difficult diagnostics. Got a quote today for $400-$3000 to eliminate Check Engine light for
"Fuel mixture too rich in Bank 1" in 850 #2. Yikes! Do banks offer car improvement loans.
I do think it would be useful if contributors came up with a standard for producing tutorials, like listing necessary parts,
tools, torque specs, tech level required etc at the beginning of the tutorials.
In any event, the tutorials here have way more pictures than the Hayes manual. I don't believe I can rely on the Hayes
manual as much as I can on this site and its experts.
Thanks
-
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