Concerning the drive size - I have found, to my surprise, during my head gasket replacement on a 95 850GLT that the most valuable drive in my tool set has been the 1/4" drive. There are many areas where the 3/8 and 1/2 will not fit. The intake bolts could only be reached with a 1/4 socket. There are some things like head bolts that must be handled by a 1/2 drive but for normal work I think that a 1/4 and 3/8 are fine. Get some different lengths of metal pipe to use as a breaker bar over your 3/8 drive handle and with a little PB Blaster and time most bolts turn very easy.
I highly recommend a good set of 3/8 torx sockets. Volvo seems to love them.
A 4" extension and universal joint are a must to get to the lower intake bolts. Put some electrical tape around the universal keep it from flopping around.
Preferred Tools for Volvo Maintenance Seeking Expert Advice
This is a great topic seeing that I just bought my first 850GLT Wagon and will need tools myself. I need to be able to fix things myself if I want to own this car.
What manual would you Seasoned Veterans recommend?
Thanks.Carl
What manual would you Seasoned Veterans recommend?
Thanks.Carl
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whoa
- Posts: 461
- Joined: 30 July 2008
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo Wagon 1996
- Location: san francisco
- Been thanked: 1 time
Get the Haynes manual, and learn to google Volvo 850 documents (the first google hit is great).
As long as you're buying a set, getting 1/2-inch sockets and driver is a good idea, and at $150 for the whole set, you are very unlikely to regret it. If you end up replacing an axle or timing belt or suspension component, you'll be glad you had the beefy driver and sockets. I started with a much smaller Sears set and have spent way more than $150 bit by bit building up a set that's still lacks some of the stuff in the one from HF. You want a 30mm socket for rotating the crankshaft (timing belt job)? Pay $10 for one at the auto parts store... or you already have one if you bought this set. Need to reach a long way off-line for a PCV job? Buy some extensions and universal joints to add to your small kit...or you alread have them if you got this set. These are all very likely jobs for a Volvo owner, as they are not hard but can run you serious money if you pay a mechanic to do them.
As long as you're buying a set, getting 1/2-inch sockets and driver is a good idea, and at $150 for the whole set, you are very unlikely to regret it. If you end up replacing an axle or timing belt or suspension component, you'll be glad you had the beefy driver and sockets. I started with a much smaller Sears set and have spent way more than $150 bit by bit building up a set that's still lacks some of the stuff in the one from HF. You want a 30mm socket for rotating the crankshaft (timing belt job)? Pay $10 for one at the auto parts store... or you already have one if you bought this set. Need to reach a long way off-line for a PCV job? Buy some extensions and universal joints to add to your small kit...or you alread have them if you got this set. These are all very likely jobs for a Volvo owner, as they are not hard but can run you serious money if you pay a mechanic to do them.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon
Lots of good information in the previous posts. As always this sight never ceases to amaze me at the amount of info concerning the care and maintenance for these cars. As far as tools go, most of the stuff I use is Craftsman. A good set of 1/4" and 3/8" drive metric sockets and a good set of torx bits will get you through most jobs on these cars. There are a few times when you may need 1/2" drive- changing drive axles comes to mind- and you can buy a good quality breaker bar and the appropriate size sockets to do that without buying a whole set. Don't skimp on the jack stands or floor jack. Last thing I want to be worried about when I got the front end apart is whether or not the stands are going to hold up while I'm under the car working on it. Mind you, all of this is based on my experiences and needs. Time and experience will determine what works best for you. Good luck and think about all the money your saving doing your own work!!
Eddie
Eddie
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wheelsup
- Posts: 1296
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I don't know about that HF tool set but I would buy a craftsman set on sale with 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 ratchets and sockets. 3/8" is a good all around size to have but like was mentioned buying them in a set they are cheap and if you go craftsman you will have them for your entire life. My 260 set was $170 on sale three years ago, awesome deal, it's on sale now for $199.1997volvo850 wrote:Thanks for the very helpful tool tips. Taking next week off for taxes and PCV replacement. Will be
shopping for tools shortly.
I notice a lot of posts mentioning 1/2" drive. I'm not sure if I should mention my current socket
wrench is 3/8". If size matters then I'm in trouble. Seriously, before I buy a bunch of additional
gadgets should I consider switching to a 1/2" drive socket? Are my options opened wider with
a 1/2" drive?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934260000P
What is your budget? If trying to save money you can go w/ Harbor Freight and just buy individual socket sets, but seriously consider a complete set.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
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XxJenoxX
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 12 March 2010
- Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 GLT
- Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
I have a 1995 850 GLT, and it is my understand that GLT stands for Grand Luxury TOURING. Hence, why '93-'96 were not turbos.
I love IPD's bone tool. There are similar tools available elsewhere, usually in the sections where you would find tools (obviously) or detailing devices. Really great for prying up panels and emblems without breaking or scratching anything, or breaking your freakin fingernails off. Yowch.
I don't know if anybody here has anything like this, but due to the fact that Volvo loves to give you very little room to work (THE DAMN SERPENTINE BELT IS WIDER THAN THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PULLEYS AND THE BODY....WTF.) But I want this bad boy:
http://www.ipdusa.com/Universal-Product ... 2-620-170/
I love IPD's bone tool. There are similar tools available elsewhere, usually in the sections where you would find tools (obviously) or detailing devices. Really great for prying up panels and emblems without breaking or scratching anything, or breaking your freakin fingernails off. Yowch.
I don't know if anybody here has anything like this, but due to the fact that Volvo loves to give you very little room to work (THE DAMN SERPENTINE BELT IS WIDER THAN THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PULLEYS AND THE BODY....WTF.) But I want this bad boy:
http://www.ipdusa.com/Universal-Product ... 2-620-170/

1995 Volvo 854 GLT, 217k and counting.
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whoa
- Posts: 461
- Joined: 30 July 2008
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo Wagon 1996
- Location: san francisco
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Neat! Coincidentally, the bone tool is on the way to me right now, and while I haven't seen that wrench, I've had my eye on this one for similar reasons:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=4432
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=4432
1996 850 Turbo Wagon
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
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Try working on a Honda some time. They can only be worked on by the little Japanese hands that build themI don't know if anybody here has anything like this, but due to the fact that Volvo loves to give you very little room to work

Phils94850 did a parts list of all the tools you need to build the serpentine belt tool.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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XxJenoxX
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 12 March 2010
- Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 GLT
- Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Yeah, I'm going to build the tool before I replace my belt. It needed to be done when I did the alternator, but the damn belt wasn't long enough. And at least a honda can be taken apart with basic sockets! Haha. Volvo has to go in 60 different directions with things. But it's worth it! That's why my mechanic hates my car. He said "I can take apart the del sol and spread every bolt across the floor with a number of tools I can hold in both my hands....your car....I need the entire garage's tools, and a snap-on truck."
To which I replied...."Get your tiny little arms back into my engine!"
He accessed my knock sensors without removing the manifold once....described it as getting to 3rd base with my car, lol.
To which I replied...."Get your tiny little arms back into my engine!"
He accessed my knock sensors without removing the manifold once....described it as getting to 3rd base with my car, lol.

1995 Volvo 854 GLT, 217k and counting.
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1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks.
The Harbor Freight 301 piece mechanic's set is very impressive. Looks like you get a lot for $150.
I occasionally break stuff. I take it these tools are not warrantied.
Is there a similar Sears set that contains the necessary tools? Do I need the SAE or am I being short
sighted in thinking I'll only be working in the metric system?
I'll have to buy one of those Sears tool chests on wheels to store my new toys.
I will look more at the Harbor Freight site. It's hard to believe you can buy a torque wrench
for $19 that actually works. Do you need to calibrate this every year or so?
My PCV kit arrived today from FCP Groton. I believe it has the Volvo style clamps. Are these the best
clamps to use? They seem like a pain to deal with but I suspect they are more reliable if you have the
right tool to install/remove them.
Plan to start collecting tools and begin my PCV project once I'm fully stocked with tools. If my car doesn't
explode after the PCV job I'll tackle the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and coolant hoses next.
In terms of chemical tools what do folks prefer for freeing up bolts? PB blaster? And then there's anti
seize spray that has been suggested for plugs. And lock-tight to keeping bolts secure. Haven't looked
for these yet - are these obvious brands or is there quite a varied selection of these chemical tools.
And the carb spray - I've read this is use to detect vacuum leaks. Any others?
Thanks
The Harbor Freight 301 piece mechanic's set is very impressive. Looks like you get a lot for $150.
I occasionally break stuff. I take it these tools are not warrantied.
Is there a similar Sears set that contains the necessary tools? Do I need the SAE or am I being short
sighted in thinking I'll only be working in the metric system?
I'll have to buy one of those Sears tool chests on wheels to store my new toys.
I will look more at the Harbor Freight site. It's hard to believe you can buy a torque wrench
for $19 that actually works. Do you need to calibrate this every year or so?
My PCV kit arrived today from FCP Groton. I believe it has the Volvo style clamps. Are these the best
clamps to use? They seem like a pain to deal with but I suspect they are more reliable if you have the
right tool to install/remove them.
Plan to start collecting tools and begin my PCV project once I'm fully stocked with tools. If my car doesn't
explode after the PCV job I'll tackle the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and coolant hoses next.
In terms of chemical tools what do folks prefer for freeing up bolts? PB blaster? And then there's anti
seize spray that has been suggested for plugs. And lock-tight to keeping bolts secure. Haven't looked
for these yet - are these obvious brands or is there quite a varied selection of these chemical tools.
And the carb spray - I've read this is use to detect vacuum leaks. Any others?
Thanks
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