A DIY air conditioning fix?

nicksing3 · Post by **nicksing3** » 02 Apr 2010, 20:28

Hi all-

I've got a 1996 Volvo 850 GLT (nonturbo) with 93,000 miles on it. The car runs great, but the one thing that doesn't run great is the air conditioning. Right now, it's dead - when I turn it on, the car just blows regular air.

The previous owner said that he thinks the AC system had a leak. One summer he had the AC recharged, and he said that it lasted about three weeks before running dry.

My question is this: is there an easy way for me to fix the leak myself, or do I have to go to a shop and have them do it? Is there even a leak, or do you think it's something different?

Thanks a lot.

-Nick

SUPERBRIK · Post by **SUPERBRIK** » 02 Apr 2010, 20:58

There are less-leaking or non-leaking hoses for a/c available. I would suggest this first; then have the system recharged with the refrigerant. I would also suggest having someone do the recharge for you since it will be done right and then blow the much needed cold air.

Post by **jblackburn** » 02 Apr 2010, 21:15

You can pick up cans of refrigerant at any auto parts store and put them in. Don't buy the stop-leak crap, it's worse for the AC system than having a leak in it in the first place. The low-side pressure valve is right next to the windshield washer fluid filler. You'll need to fill it to ~35 psi or so to get a good charge in it. Then see how long it takes to come out. They do sell some stuff with dye in it that shows up under a blacklight, that may be something you'd want to get and then have a look around at your hoses and AC parts. I got mine through last summer only needing to refill every month or so, but it started getting worse.

If it's a very quick leak, chances are your evaporator core is shot. That is not a fun job, it involves removing the entire dash and about half the car, or about $1200 worth of work at a shop.

Post by **matthew1** » 02 Apr 2010, 23:33

Here's our semi-official Air Conditioning page. Recharging DIY is easy.

jonofmac · Post by **jonofmac** » 03 Apr 2010, 00:20

I'll chime in as well since I had this exact problem. I have a 94 850 and the A/C would only work for 2 weeks before the air was hot again, we replaced the compressor 3 times and some other parts (can't think right now, 1 am) before the shop suggested that the only thing left was the Evaporator core, when they told me it would cost $1200, I was like, nooooo thank you.

After a bit of research, I found out what was involved in replacing it, it's definitely not a job to be taken lightly, but I was able to do it with the help of a friend. If you can confidently take apart your car, then I say go for it, I'll outline what's involved (from memory though, so don't hold me to it

I did this about 2 years ago, and still am running on the same A/C recharge since I replaced the evap coil).

1) Drain A/C lines (I didn't do this, and although it was too low to blow cold air, when I disconnected the lines, it SHOT OUT and got all over the engine bay)
2) Disconnect battery
3) You will need to remove the steering wheel + steering wheel airbag + the center console
4) Disconnect and remove the instrument gauge and the top cover thing of the dash.
5) Take off the windshield wipers and remove the cowel that covers the motor.
6) remove the windshield wiper motor and transmission assembly to gain access to 4 screws that bolt into the back of the dash, they are torx screws
7) Go underneath the dash and disconnect the 3 connectors that connect to the fuse box as well as removing the screws that bolt the dash into the chassis, and undo airbag clips.

Once you've done this, you'll want a friend to help you lift the entire dash assembly out of the vehicle and place it somewhere safe, be gentle as these parts are brittle, I broke some of the trim and now it rattles.
9) You'll want to disconnect the A/C lines in the engine bay that connect to the evap core with some special tools (still a PITA, this was probably the most frustrating for me)
10) Then you'll need to undo the bolts that hold the EVAC box to the chassis (and of coruse all the wires as well)
11) Remove the big box and place it on the ground and start dissembling to get to the core (lots of little screws)
12) Remove and replace the evap core and put the EVAC box back together
13) Put the car back together and charge the system, and you should be good to go!

I mean, I did this when I was 17, so if you're somewhat mechanically inclined, it can be done.

All in all, I spent $190 for the replacement evap core and a recharge rather than 1200 JUST to replace the part >_<
I have some pictures too if you'd really like to see. I did this while I was cleaning up the car.

I was installing an aftermarket stereo (with amps for subs and highs, which required running new wires to the doors and power wire, etc), my roof was also falling in so I took the roof part out and recarpetted that, took the carpet out of the car and pressure washed it (that's right

!), and some more stuff. Just cleaned the car up a lot.

nicksing3 · Post by **nicksing3** » 03 Apr 2010, 18:53

Alright, thanks everybody for the help. I don't think I'll be replacing the evaporator core, but it was nice to find that I can pretty easily recharge my A/C myself.

fwparker3 · Post by **fwparker3** » 04 May 2010, 08:22

Hey jonofmac, could you post the pictures?

Post by **jblackburn** » 04 May 2010, 08:35

Take a look here:
http://www.woodjoiner.com/volvo/VolvoEvapReplace.pdf

Post by **JRL** » 04 May 2010, 10:27

If it's to the point of leaking out in two weeks, what IS the point?
You need a new evaporator, they all do every 4-8 years!
(Poor design)

Post by **jblackburn** » 04 May 2010, 10:33

JRL,
I remember reading somewhere that there was a software update available for the -70 series cars that could be programmed to run the fan blower after the car is shut off to keep the evaporator from sitting there with condensation on it. The S60's and newer V70's already do this - I think this was for a 2000 (no idea where I read it); do you know if this could be applied to a 98 or any of the 850s?