Buying an 850/V70 wagon

[Mopar4wd]

Hello, This is my first post. Im in need of a new car and looking to pick up an 850 or V70 wagon orginaly looking for the turbo but as my current ride is about to kick the bucket (VW golf 2.0) I may settle for a NA. Im looking for tips on what to look for , orginally I was looking for manual turbos but the wife has since said autos only as she wants to keep miles off her car by driving mine. I think that actually opens me up to more cars. Right now Im playing with about a $3000 budget and less is better due to some recent unplanned costs. Let me know what year milage etc I should be looking for, any help greatly appreciated.

[matthew1]

This is a wide-open subject that's been answered often, that's probably why you're not getting responses.

Start with the Volvo Buyer's Guide, then come back with specific questions. We have a difficult time ignoring specific queries.

[Mopar4wd]

Alright here are my two front runners a 1994 850 wagon with 103,000 NA and a 1996 850 NA with 120,000 I guess my question is that is there a real advantage to going with the newer car with less milage or should I go for lower mileage. Also the lower milage car has just had the timing belt done. I know the later ones have the winter mode (traction control) does the 94 have it as well (the car is about 50 miles from my house and I haven't gotten much info from the owner yet.

Thanks I will post more questions as I ge them

[jblackburn]

The mileage or year really doesn't matter, but it depends more on how well the car has been taken care of.

Things you'll want to look for:
-MAINTENANCE RECORDS
-Timing belt (just been done on the 94, you'll be looking at doing it on the 96 within the next 20,000). Not a set-back necessarily, I had to do the same thing within a year of buying mine.
-How well does the A/C work? The evaporator is an expensive/time-consuming repair.
-Pull out the dipstick with the car idling after taking it for a drive. If you see smoke puffing out of the opening, the PCV system needs to be cleaned.
-Stomp the brakes real hard. The ABS should activate; if it doesn't, there's a problem with the ABS module, I have seen people yank the bulbs for them.
-Does the odometer still actually WORK? Most 850's have a gear break at some point, and they stop recording mileage. You can still pull this information from the computer at a later point.

Both of those are low miles. I'd look at them both, and then make up your mind about which you like better. 94-95 models seem to have a few more transmission problems, but it could be just because they're getting older. All have Winter mode, and all use the same transmission. TRACS is an option on some cars, but in all reality, it's completely useless and doesn't really ever help unless you're turning while accelerating in snow, and even then...

[Mopar4wd]

Thank you for the advice, I noticed you mentioned the PCV system I was also looking at Saab 9-5's but was decied against them due to possible engine problems. Does the Volvo have any oil problems to watch out for? I used to be a mechanic (I'm an insurance appraiser now) so doing my own repairs for minor items dosen't worry me much (cost of parts is worse then labor to me) , I just don't want something major blowing right away. Also should I expand my search to higher milage cars right now I'm trying to stay under 130,000 Again thanks for any tips. Oh one more questions do the 94's have OBD II.

[jblackburn]

Sludge build-up isn't usually too much of a problem on these cars. Switch it over to synthetic if you're so inclined, and the car will be forever happier. One common problem with some of the older ones is loud lifters caused by deteriorating O-rings on the oil pickup lines. Don't mistake this for the noisy ticking of the injectors - they are LOUD!

I used to own a 900 with over 300K miles on it, and it was quite possibly the best car ever built, but I don't like the newer Saabs too much. Well, I take that back, the new 9-3's are nice, but I don't like the 1st generation of them.

I bought mine with 129,000 miles on it, and 2 1/2 years later, I'm at 168. No major mechanical failures anywhere, just annoying electrical sensors and minor maintenance things. They're very solidly built cars, and mechanically, the engines and transmissions will last forever if they're well-taken care of.

No OBD-II on a 94; but the OBD-I system is much more helpful anyway about giving you an idea of what's actually wrong with it. 95's included both OBD-I and II, and 96's were completely OBD-II complaint.

[whoa]

Waiting for a low-mileage, well-maintained car is worth the time and extra cost.

Winter mode is not traction control; like Sport mode, it is just a change in the automatic shift points. In this case you start out in third gear so that you are underpowered and hence won't spin your wheels on ice as easily.

96 cars are *sort of* OBD-II compliant, but OBD-II readers that use the standard protocols won't get the important codes, because they are still flash-based. You can build a little device to mimic the built in diagnostic device on the earlier models, which works fine at least for some important codes, but I'm still unclear about, for instance, whether you can get the tranny codes that way (anyone?). Kind of a headache.

Ideal: '97 with low miles driven gently and dealer-maintained.

[thomaskpayne]

330-431-4654
got some info on your car/option choices

[Mopar4wd]

One more question while I think of it (I'm going to get my Golf going again this weekend so I can take time on my search) How are the early Cross Countries I see them all over the place here in CT? I belive I've heard they have issues with the rear differential.

Thanks again

[jblackburn]

Yes, yes they do. If you want an AWD, get a 2003 or later model XC (not really in your price range, though). Once they hit 150K or so (some earlier, some later), the bevel gear pretty much dies on all of the earlier ones. They work perfectly fine as FWD models when the driveshaft is dropped out though