Need help reviving a 67 wagon
Re: Need help reviving a 67 wagon
I replaced both rear wheel brake cylinders. Here are some photos of the process if anyone is interested.
- Attachments
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- Not too exciting, but it is the finished product.
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- New cylinder installed.
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- Removing the old cylinder was easy. I first removed the old bleeder valve because it sticks out and is in the way. Next, I removed the brake line..... careful not to strip it. I don't have a special wrench, so I got a standard wrench on tight and gave it a little hit with a mallot. She came loose easily. Lastly, I removed the 2 bolts that hold the cylinder n place.
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- There was a little fresk fluid leaking on the spring below the cylinder. The pistons in the old cylinder didn't move too easily either.
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- Here's what everything looked like when I removed the hub.
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- After removing the big keeper nut on the outside, a small whack with a hammer brought the hub loose. I was happily surprised it came off so easily. I've heard of some horror stories where beer, swearing, and a torch were required.
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- After pulling off the whell, this is what you get. I assume you need to pull the pin and remove the big nut. HINT- block the wheels and remove the parking brake. The hub comes off easier that way!
If it will start and run on fresh gas, you can use the fuel pump to empty the tank.
1. supply the engine manually from a separate gas can. (The float chambers hold enough gas to drive over a mile.) A rubber ear syringe can feed fuel fast enough to keep the engine idling.
2. pull the pump-to-carb hose. Replace it with something long enough to reach a 5-gallon or larger can, for the old gas.
3. feed gas from the independent supply to keep it idling until the job is done.
Been there and done that: ElCheapo strikes again!
1. supply the engine manually from a separate gas can. (The float chambers hold enough gas to drive over a mile.) A rubber ear syringe can feed fuel fast enough to keep the engine idling.
2. pull the pump-to-carb hose. Replace it with something long enough to reach a 5-gallon or larger can, for the old gas.
3. feed gas from the independent supply to keep it idling until the job is done.
Been there and done that: ElCheapo strikes again!
Air filters
I have made an oversize cleanable set. Been awhile, so don't recall size details.
Strip the old set of filter paper and adhesive off the end caps.. Removed cross-tube brackets, silver soldered longer ones to take longer bolts. You can go triple width I think.
Filter elements, strips of single-fiber polyester sheet from a fabric store. Long enough to wrap around three times. Light oil on the first wrap. Used 2 elastic bandage anchors to attach end of strip to the previous layer. Works better than the real thing. Keep a spare pair of elements, and you always have one ready to go.
I have made an oversize cleanable set. Been awhile, so don't recall size details.
Strip the old set of filter paper and adhesive off the end caps.. Removed cross-tube brackets, silver soldered longer ones to take longer bolts. You can go triple width I think.
Filter elements, strips of single-fiber polyester sheet from a fabric store. Long enough to wrap around three times. Light oil on the first wrap. Used 2 elastic bandage anchors to attach end of strip to the previous layer. Works better than the real thing. Keep a spare pair of elements, and you always have one ready to go.
Hi Virg,
Both great ideas! I considered manually pumping the fuel out of the tank in the manner you described. Luckily, the drain plug on the bottom of the tank came out easily. Believe it or not, the fuel (10 years old) looked and smelled fine. I dumped it just in case.
Air filters- I found a $60 set online and in a moment of weakness, purchased them. I like your idea of stripping out all the old glue and paper. Actually, I already did it (cleaned out the paper and glue between the tins) and was hoping to find a small round filter to sandwich in between the old tins...... no luck. There was a common filter in the auto parts store that was about 1/2 inch larger. I even thought about cutting down a couple of coffee cans that looked similar in size. After spending a few weeks contemplating options...... the $60 seemed like a darn good deal.
Both great ideas! I considered manually pumping the fuel out of the tank in the manner you described. Luckily, the drain plug on the bottom of the tank came out easily. Believe it or not, the fuel (10 years old) looked and smelled fine. I dumped it just in case.
Air filters- I found a $60 set online and in a moment of weakness, purchased them. I like your idea of stripping out all the old glue and paper. Actually, I already did it (cleaned out the paper and glue between the tins) and was hoping to find a small round filter to sandwich in between the old tins...... no luck. There was a common filter in the auto parts store that was about 1/2 inch larger. I even thought about cutting down a couple of coffee cans that looked similar in size. After spending a few weeks contemplating options...... the $60 seemed like a darn good deal.
Silver-solder spacers between the old covers. Great stuff.
Polyester felt- I used strips. They stretch if treated roughly when cleaned. Hung to dry; they stretch; stretched, they thin in spots.
Consider disk-shape felt sandwiched between the covers.
Consider hobby-shop 1/16" or 1/32" marine plywood for case-construction material.
But NEVER give in.
Polyester felt- I used strips. They stretch if treated roughly when cleaned. Hung to dry; they stretch; stretched, they thin in spots.
Consider disk-shape felt sandwiched between the covers.
Consider hobby-shop 1/16" or 1/32" marine plywood for case-construction material.
But NEVER give in.
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