My driver's side window would get stuck intermittently. Finally one day the upper rear corner tipped forward out of its track and I decided it was time to fix it. Here's how.
Tools and supplies you will need:
T-25 Torx bit and driver.
Flat blade screwdriver.
Jeweler's (small) flat blade screwdriver.
Auto trim tool or plastic putty knife.
Drill and 3/16" bit.
Pop Rivet tool and 3/16" steel rivets.
Grease.
Adhesive tape.
Window sliders (if yours are broken): Volvo part #3509416, available at http://www.fcpgroton.com, http://www.myswedishparts.com, or http://www.tascafordparts.com.
If your regulator is trashed you can get a new one from the above suppliers. The part # varies depending on which door has the problem and your VIN #, so it's best to call to make sure you get the correct part.
Start by opening the door and moving the window to halfway down. Take the key out of the ignition and wait 30 seconds.
Now use the trim tool or putty knife to pry the back edge of the mirror trim loose:
Then pull the trim out and off with your fingers.
Now you need to remove the 6 plastic rivets holding the inside panel to the door. Here are their locations:
Remove each rivet by first using the jeweler's screwdriver to push the center of the rivet in about 3/16".
Then pull the edge of the rivet head away from the panel:
And remove the rivet with your fingers. Continue with the rest of the rivets. Save the rivets as they are reusable.
Now use the jeweler's screwdriver to loosen the plastic cover on the inside of the door handle:
And lift it out with your fingers:
Now use the T-25 Torx bit and driver to remove the Torx screw in the door handle:
Use the trim tool, putty knife, or your fingers to pry out the rear edge of the door release trim:
Then pull it outward and off the plastic post at the front:
Now pull the bottom edge of the door panel out slightly and lift the panel up about 1", then pull the top edge outward past the window sill. Look on the inside of the door and you will see electrical connectors that need to be removed.
Here's a pic of the connector for the tweeter speaker. Push down on the retainer, then pull the connector out:
I was unable to disconnect the connectors for the switch block, so I just put some towels on the ground and rotated the door panel out of the way and set it on the towels, being careful not pull on the wiring.
Now remove the release cable from the clip:
And drill out the rivet at the top of the reinforcement bar:
Then push the bar down and out of the way:
Use the putty knife or other sharp instrument to cut the glue holding the liner to the door. Work all the way around the liner until it is completely loose. Leave the glue in place as you will be reusing it later.
Slide the liner along the release cable to expose the interior of the door.
This photo is out of focus, but it shows the track that holds the glass and the pin of the regulator arm. The blue slider that is supposed to be on the pin is missing. I found it in the bottom of the door.
Here's a pic of the slider I found in the bottom of the door:
The front slider was still connected so I had to remove it. Disconnect the pin from the slider by inserting the flat screwdriver in between them and levering until the pin pops out of the slider. I don't have pics because there's no room up inside the door, but here is an illustration:
After you get both sliders loose, work the window to the top of the door and use adhesive tape over the door frame to hold it in position:
Then you can slide the slider out of the track and take it out of the door.
Here's what my front slider looked like showing the correct position of the retention clip:
If you have to replace the regulator, here are VADIS directions. You have to drill out the rivets holding the door release handle on to access one of the rivets holding the regulator in. You need a long-nose (about 3") riveter to rivet the new/repaired regulator in place.
Grease up the new sliders and position them in the tracks. Move the window down and pop the pins into the holes in the middle of the sliders. I had to use pliers to apply enough pressure to squeeze the pins into the holes - finger pressure was not enough. It's tough to get up in there and squeeze it, but it can be done.
Position the liner and push it back into the glue. If it doesn't stick well, try heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun.
Rotate the reinforcement arm back into postion and rivet it in place with a 3/16" steel pop rivet.
Push the release cable back into the clip.
Pick up the inner panel and reconnect the tweeter speaker connector.
Place the top edge of the panel over the window sill. Make sure the lock post comes up through its hole. Swing the lower portion of the door panel down into positon.
Install the Torx screw and cover.
Snap the release handle trim back into position.
Install the plastic rivets. First push the core of the rivet back through the center:
Then place the rivet in the panel hole.
Now push the center of the rivet in until it's flush with the large portion:
Repeat for the rest of the rivets.
Snap the rearview mirror trim in position and you're done.
S80 2001 T6 Driver's Window Repair (+ other P2 cars?)
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
S80 Driver's Window Repair
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vegasjetskier
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S80 2001 T6 Driver's Window Repair (+ other P2 cars?)
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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MadeInJapan
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Great write-up!
I hope you put it in the repair database.
I hope you put it in the repair database.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
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Okay I have a question, motor is engaging, from the looks of it the regulator isnt binding up. Im going to guess at regulator pivots, but if I cant get the window down how do i access them?
2000 S80 2.9 113k
2000 S80 2.9 113k
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vegasjetskier
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You can try having a helper push down on the glass while you operate the switch. With the door open, have him put one hand on each side of the glass and "squeeze" the glass between both hands, then push down. That might give you enough pressure (combined with the motor) to move the glass half way down.Gloworm03 wrote:Okay I have a question, motor is engaging, from the looks of it the regulator isnt binding up. Im going to guess at regulator pivots, but if I cant get the window down how do i access them?
2000 S80 2.9 113k
You can also try reaching up into the door with the screwdriver and prying the pivots out from the sliders. I don't know if there's enough clearance to do this or not.
Last idea is to drill out all the rivets that hold the regulator in and let the regulator drop down in the door while it's still attached to the window. This might let it drop far enough so that you can reach the sliders with the screwdriver. I would only try this one as a last resort.
If you drill out the rivets holding the regulator in, you will need a long nose (about 3") pop rivet gun to reistall it.
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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dcarlson12
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For the grease, did you just use regular lithium/axle grease? If not, what kind.
Thks for the great write up and photos!
And very happy that although you don't have the Volvo anymore that you haven't abandoned this forum!
Thks for the great write up and photos!
And very happy that although you don't have the Volvo anymore that you haven't abandoned this forum!
I forgot to ask, could this be a programing issue with the window? It goes down about half an inch and stops.....I read on this site that there was a case where the window would go down a few inches and then back up. My window just goes half an inch and stops
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vegasjetskier
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I just used some disc brake grease I already had.dcarlson12 wrote:For the grease, did you just use regular lithium/axle grease? If not, what kind.
Thks for the great write up and photos!
And very happy that although you don't have the Volvo anymore that you haven't abandoned this forum!
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
thank you!!!!! the window goes up and down! 2 things...1 when i hit auto up the window goes up about 80% and then back down. 2 when i hit the remote or power locks now the drivers door lock unlocks and the locks again, any advice? Im not so concerned with the auto up window feature im more concerned with the unlock feature.
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