Brake Failure Please Stop ASAP error...plus lights galore

[esmoriz]

On my quest for a solution for my problem, since my dealer can not find one, I just got this answer, which makes lots of sense to me:

What I think might be going on here, is a bad splice joint in the harness....

I have resoldered dozens of these!

You have a BUS network for control modules. So that means 2 wires carry control module information around the loop of control units. A green, and a White wire, that are twisted together. The modules are MOSTLY wired in series, so when one goes off line they can take them all off line. So, what I have done a LOT of times, is removed the CEM module (above the drivers feet), and followed the green/white twisted pair, until I found a branch poiont. I would then remove the protective heat shrink volvo used, and Solder these wires together. Repair time...2 hours +/- . The factory used a pressure crimper, which mostly works?

The thing I would check BEFORE this, is your charging voltage when your dash lights were on. If the charging voltage is less than 12 volts, I am going to suggest you have an alternator, whose brushes are worn. The ground, to make all those lights go out...... is a small wire that goes to the alternator. When the alternator is WORKING, the light goes out, because its at 14v not 0v. If when these lights are on, the battery is being charged at 14v, then this is NOT your trouble.

[robby91]

FINAL RESOLUTION:

Ok, so this journey started in November and didn't end until February. I figure I would post the final solution so hopefully it saves someone else all of the trouble and time.

Here is what I had done:
-Battery Replaced
-Alternator Tested
-Ground wire for battery repaired
-ABS control module pulled for repair (it was fine and the problem occurred with it removed)
-TCM replaced(trans control module)
-All wiring harness splices for the CEM re-soldered

AND NONE of that fixed anything!
-In the end, the only thing that fixed the problem was replacing the CEM.

I still don’t know what was randomly failing in the CEM. But sure enough, replacing the CEM fixed the problem. At another time, I will post the list of codes that the car was registering when the gauges would fail. Hopefully this saves some people some time if they end up with the same configuration. I took the car 2 two independent mechanics before going to the dealer. The dealer had the car for about a month. Every time they replaced or repaired something they thought it was fixed. I would pick it up, and it would fail again. It wasn't until the CEM was replaced that the problem went away. Even though almost every system on the front side high speed network would trigger errors, they were all erroneous.

The first independent mechanic had no clue. The second wanted to replace the ETM. The dealer first wanted to replace the ABS module. I didn’t have them do that, I had pulled that myself and knew it was fine. The second thing they did was disconnect the TCM and clean the connections. (this system wasn’t registering errors like the rest so they summarized the connection was going bad and it was tripping the rest of the computers.) This didn’t fix anything. Then they replaced the TCM. Didn’t fix it. Then they pulled apart a ton of high speed network wiring and repaired/replaced. Still didn’t fix anything. So then they put a new ECM in and reprogrammed it and my keys. Let me tell you, not cheap. Any questions, email me.

If you are suffering from this problem right now. Disconnect the ground on your battery and reconnect. Your error will clear until the next time. Its the only short term solution if the car wont start or run right. You can wait 10 minutes and try to restart. But that doesnt always clear it. Popping the battery off does if you need to leave in a hurry.

Thanks!

[dcarlson12]

Are you talking about two different modules being replaced? i.e. CEM (what does it stand for?) or ECM (What does it stand for?)
Thks.

[robby91]

Sorry, "ECM" was just a type-o at the end. The "CEM" was replaced.

CEM= Central Electronics Module

Its basically the brain. Its the main computer. The high speed network is controlled through the CEM. So is the ABS module, TCM (transmission control module), ETM (electronic throttle module), SRS airbags, cruise, all dash gauges (except fuel quantity), and more are controlled through the CEM. The fuel guauge is the only gauge that would still function when this problem would surface. Reason being, it was run on the low speed bus from the rear of the vehicle. As are climate control, radio, and other items. The way i understand it, if one part fails on a network (hi-speed or low speed) then all of the components on the network tend to register faults because the comunications are passed along through one another. In other words, if the ABS control unit were to fail, you might pull codes from everything else on the high speed network. In reality, everything else is fine, its just suffering from communication problems. Thats what made narrowing this down so hard. Nothing was failing except the component designed to manage the flow of information. But errors basically said everything was broken.

[esmoriz]

robby91, thank for sharing this information. On my case, I am at the point of soldering the first splice I found after the CEM unit. I also replaced the ABS control unit (did not work!) and Volvo shop tried to replace the Engine Control Module but I didn't let them do it. So, I guess that, like you, I have to replace the CEM unit to fix my problem. Again, thanks for sharing.

[davenicola]

This thread describes my problem to the letter.

I have a 1999 S80 t6. My dad bought the car new in 99 and gave it to me in 06. He had multiple issues with it in the time he owned, most of which were covered under warranty. However, since I had it we've sunk about $7,000 for various repairs in the last 3.5 years.

About six weeks ago I started having the exact same symptoms as described in this thread (Brake failure, ABS failure, Fix Transmission error messages / lights etc.). The car was drivable for awhile but then one day just wouldn't turn over at all.

I decided to go with an independent mechanic because I was afraid of being bent over by the Volvo dealer here in Dallas, who never fails to find a laundry list of issues that they "strongly urge" to have fixed to the tune of thousands of $$$, of course.

Anyway, the independent mechanic told me I just needed a new relay and the computer put the car in "sleep"mode, which is why it woudln't start. So I paid $500 to get that fixed but after 75 miles same issues, Brake failure, check engine, ABS failure messages etc.

So, I took it to another place, they said they were 90% sure it was the alternator. Paid $450 to have that replaced. After 75 miles same result.

What frustrates me is that both mechanics seemed sure what the issue was but had different solutions, none of which were correct. Out of frustration, I did some research online and within 10 minutes found this forum and what the problem really is. Almost $1000 and two mechanics later I still have no resolution.....So now it appears I am going to have to bend over for the dealer anyway.

Since having the relay and alternator replaced it seems to drive fine, even with the warning lights on but not sure for how long.

I'm just looking for this car to get me into next year when I can afford to get something esle and sell it for whatever I can get for it. However, I'm not sure I could give it away with the error warnings and lights on.

Anyone know how long it is possible to drive the car this way and how much it costs to replace the CEM?

Any advice is appreciated.

[worldbound4now]

Ahhhh, the saga continues for several of us.

Here's my short and not too sweet story.

2001 V70 153,000 miles.

For the past year, a SRS light has been on, dealer cleared once stating the control unit popped a "low voltage" error.

Last Friday, 4/23/2010, my wife calls me on her way to work to tell me a new light is on instructing her to service the electrical system soon. I meet her after work to aid safe travel home since she also had our two children. The V70 starts up strong, but has the battery light on and the electrical service message.

Within 5 miles, the ABS failure message goes on while applying the brake. Another mile down the road I look down and note the spedometer is not working. Accellerating from the next stop light makes it feel like the car is in "W" mode on the transmission. I limp into auto zone and they hook up their tester on the non-running car. With a 2.5 amp draw, the voltage drops to 8.5 volts almost immediately. Within a short few minutes, their machine beams out the message "bad battery". I replaced it on the spot.

Driving the car home, the battery light was still on as well as the electrical service message. With a knowledge deficit, I felt this was maybe an error code that only the dealer could clear. I make one short (2.5 miles round trip) to the store later that night and let the car sit until today (Monday). I go out to the car to head to the gym and I get nothing. No key response. No dome lights. Nada. Dead. Battery posts are spotless. Battery ground is firm to the battery and to the interior of the car. Positive lead on battery is connected firmly.

My plan.... I'm going to head out to the store tonight when my wife gets home and purchase a battery charger with a volt meter on it and, after fully charging the brand new battery, I'm going to see if the voltage climbs after starting the car. If it doesn't, can I assume I have a bad alternator? Old school wrenching tells me this is so, but my mechanical abilities were focused on domestic cars in the mid 80's. There are a lot more computers present.

Should I just throw the towel in, charge the battery (hopefully the car will start), and head to the dealer?

Thank you for any advice!

[worldbound4now]

Back from the auto parts store where I purchased a cheapie 1.5 amp battery charger and a digital multimeter ($50 total... cheaper than an hour at the local shop). Initial multimeter voltage across battery posts was not reading. I hooked up jumper cables from my running car and, after a few minutes pause, the V70 fired right up. Voltage at idle 13.1. Voltage at 2,000rpm was 13.8. Sounds like I may have purchased a dead battery. It's on the trickle charger for the night and we'll see where it's at tomorrow morning.

[prettybrg]

It seems like plenty of us are dealing with this issue, my car is also giving me these problems: 2000 S80 T6. I haven't had any issues with driving, it has never caused the car to die or not start, but the rear break lights only work sometimes and all the warning lights go nuts and turn on and off when driving, get break failure message, odometer stops working but RPM, Speedometer, Fuel meter still work fine. I haven't tried anything else but I'll have to see what I can do, I'll hopefully figure it out quickly with advice used here.

+++UPDATE+++07/06/10+++

For anyone who might be reading this and hoping for a solution, I am first going to send away my A.B.S module to make sure it is in working condition before I get the C.E.M looked at. I'll be back to give information about the A.B.S, if it isn't that then I'll bite the bullet and go into the stealership. Don't get to excited though, I have to order one of those annoying Torx E5 sockets first, then removed the unit, then send the unit, then receive the unit back.

I think I found a place in Ontario that services Volvo A.B.S modules, which I'll use instead of the person OP used, simply because I don't want to deal with the lag in shipping over borders due to customs processing.

+++UPDATE+++07/07/10+++

Things are moving faster then expected which is good. A friend of mine had a E5 wrench, so I went over to his place and removed the A.B.S, talk about a pain those little bolts are. I sent it to BBA-Reman in Ontario this morning and it is set for Express shipping, so it should be in Ontario tomorrow morning. I am hoping to have it back by the end of next week :]



+++UPDATE+++07/10/10+++

BBA-Reman is pretty good, they received the unit on the July 8th and repaired and sent it back the next day. When I called BBA the lady said it was repaired so rapidly because I sent it express so they put it ahead of the line; I asked her if there was actually a fault but I didn't make out what the lady said, so I'll just have to see if it is re-built or not when I get it

Should be here Monday, might not have the time to install it once UPS drops it off Monday though, so might not get it back in tell Tuesday, wish me luck!

+++UPDATE+++07/12/10+++

Guess what I found on the steps today? I'll hopefully have the time to re-install the module this evening and hopefully have good news for you all about it.

+++UPDATE+++07/14/10+++

Final update here I didn't have a garage to work in, it is full of stuff, so with my luck it poured rain for the last two days and I couldn't put the ABS back in. It is nice again today and I was able to re-install it, all the lights are gone, the car is good again, yay!!

I think checking the ABS moudle before you check the CEM is definitely a good idea.

[John Cherubini Dublin]

Hey Rob. I'm getting the same brake failure stop asap message on my S80 but the only thing that stops working is the speedometer? However i'd say eventually i will have your list of problems too since its becoming more frequent. Here's a funny one for you but when driving and the message comes up... Try blowing the horn! Dont ask how i figured that out but it resolves the problem. Not a permanent solution though. I'll watch your post and see how you eventually get on. Let me know if blowing the horn works. NOT A JOKE RESPONSE. Such as a bucket of steam etc.↲cheers John,