99 V70R VVT and timing issue after rebuilding head

flatnb · Post by **flatnb** » 05 Feb 2010, 09:36

I just finished having my head rebuilt after 2 valves burned. Everything went back together good with no problems. Vehicle started right back up after complete. Engine idled great about 15 minutes until I tried to drive it home. The vehicle ran great above about 1500 rpms while driving and began to idle very rough. I was able to make it home, about 10 miles, then it began to idle even rougher. It never did die while idling but was not smooth at all. The vehicle finally had the CEL come on while at home. The code was a P0014 which is a cam position sensor. Im sure this has something to do with the VVT, not sure if I got it set up exactly right.

I was able to check the timing marks that night and they were still perfectly lined up where they should be. I am not sure how to check to check to make sure the VVT is set up properly.

I went out today checked the timing again and everything was lined up properly. I started the vehicle and it started right up with no problems or hesitations. The engine ran very smoothly at first. Once the engine got warmed up it began to run rough again.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated

Does anyone have any VADIS information on how to reset the VVT properly? Is there any way to make a tool to properly set this up without the special Volvo tool.

Post by **jblackburn** » 05 Feb 2010, 09:57

No, I think the problem is actually what the car is saying it is...the cam position sensor. The VVT would only act up (or so I would think - mine doesn't have it) at high RPM's. Under whatever that magic number is (4000 for a 2.4 Honda), the solenoid remains shut, and your car operates normally. So basically, it would run horrible all the time if the problem was that the timing was actually off. Most of the time, they will throw a code for the CVVT solenoid being bad if they're having a problem with the timing.

The cam position sensor will do exactly that as they get older - begin to fail as it gets warm, or just fail outright together.

It is on the right side of the engine block, just behind where the distributor (would be) on an earlier model.

flatnb · Post by **flatnb** » 05 Feb 2010, 18:03

Is there any way to test the cam position sensor? Would that just fail after putting the engine back together?

Is this why the engine starts up fine until it warms up?

Thanks for the advise.

Post by **jblackburn** » 05 Feb 2010, 19:23

In your case, it sounds like it's an intermittent one instead of an outright failure, which is harder to track down so it's good at least the car knows what to point fingers at. You can usually test for a total failure by measuring the resistance on the terminals of the sensor.

I suppose you could still try that, the resistance between the pins should be higher than 120 ohms at the minimum once it starts to run bad.

I'm not sure that the timing belt change had anything to do with it, sometimes coincidences just happen. This is just a possibility anyway, it could be another problem altogether.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 05 Feb 2010, 20:23

Double check your timing marks on the crankshaft and the camshafts. It is very easy to get one tooth off. The good news is that it causes no permanent damage but it kills the performance.

...Lee

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 05 Feb 2010, 20:39

flatnb wrote:I went out today checked the timing again and everything was lined up properly. I started the vehicle and it started right up with no problems or hesitations. The engine ran very smoothly at first. Once the engine got warmed up it began to run rough again.

This fact makes me think that it might be the coolant temp sensor. I'd check to make sure that the wire is connected properly. If the other fixes don't work, I'd consider changing out the sensor.

flatnb · Post by **flatnb** » 06 Feb 2010, 08:45

Thanks for all the ideas. I will try to test the CPS when I get home. I never thought about the temp sensor causing the problem.

I have checked the timing marks 4 times now to make sure it is on correct and they all line up perfectly.

I may try to unplug and replug the CPS when home. We did have to remove that when we pulled the head. May not have gotten a good connection.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 26 Apr 2010, 19:25

did you track this down??

flatnb · Post by **flatnb** » 26 Apr 2010, 22:18

Not sure yet. I have the car into a second shop today. The first one I took it to stated the timing was off and set it, they said they did not need to set the VVT off the back of the cams. Car still ran bad. The second place I took it to today said the timing was off when they timed it off the back of the cams. I will have to see if that fixes the problem or not.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 27 Apr 2010, 08:29

I might have to do a head gasket on our 00 XC v70 SE

Only part I'm worried about is the exhuast vvt.

As I understand it if I buy the V500 tool set I lock the cams and crank
in place and use a torx to set the vvt gear timing mark

But the instructions keep saying take the gears off and I'm
worried about getting the vvt back together correctly

Does any one have any good simple to follow instructions ??

I'm a competent mechanic but havnt worked on a lot of vvt engines