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Recently purchased a '96 850 GLT Sedan

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Trenchcoat
Posts: 15
Joined: 6 May 2010
Year and Model: 850, 1996
Location: Louisville, KY

Recently purchased a '96 850 GLT Sedan

Post by Trenchcoat »

I believe it's an NA edition. It had an odometer broken at 150K miles, and that stopped about 5 years ago according to the title.

There were about 3 things on the car that I thought I needed to fix, but after going through this site, there are so many things I want to do.

Already done:
Alternator replace (Turned out to be unnecessary, so now I have a spare alternator.)
Distributor Cap replace
Spark Plugs
Instrument Cluster replace (Speedo and odometer didn't work.)

Still to do:
PCV System repair (I have that exhaust coming out of the oil dipstick hole and oily gunk by the distributor.)
Cabin and engine air filter change (Somehow I have one of the models with a cabin filter installer already.)
Trunk Struts
Transmission Drain & Fill (No power flush!)
Timing belt change (You all scared me.) :shock:
Serpentine Belt change (Should be easier now that I have a feel for the tensioner.)
Various interior repairs

I started out just on google looking for some tips on replacing the distributor cap and I came across this site. The most involved car repair I've done before is replacing the alternator on a '90 Corolla, but the info here is so good that I can do all the stuff on that list! Just now I was wracking my brain trying to figure our why the headlights stopped working, and it's the ignition switch. Just wanted to say you guys are awesome, and I may be posting some questions sometime soon. :D

Matty Moo
Posts: 1810
Joined: 12 October 2008
Year and Model: 850, 1996
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Post by Matty Moo »

As far as maintenance goes, this about the best one out of all the Volvo forums out there. I spent countless hours here after buying my first 850. It's a friendly place for newer people that have a ton of questions.
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1996 850 Platinum Wagon. ARD Green Tune, OBX.-Gone
1998 s70 ARD tune, EST exhaust, SE/R interior.
1999 s70 Plain Jane.
2000 s70 GLT
2014 Ram
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

jblackburn
MVS Moderator
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Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
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Post by jblackburn »

Welcome to the site!

One thing I noticed in your list: "oily gunk by the distributor."
May be a blown cam seal - check behind your dist. cap or cam sensor on that side of the engine. Still a pretty easy fix, especially since you don't have all the turbo junk in the way :mrgreen:

Any more questions you've got, feel free to post!
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

Trenchcoat
Posts: 15
Joined: 6 May 2010
Year and Model: 850, 1996
Location: Louisville, KY

Post by Trenchcoat »

Thanks for the welcome! I just checked the cam seal/sensor replacement tutorial. It doesn't look like it's terribly difficult. Autozone has about 5 different seals for sale. Is there any real difference between them? Are they basically just rubber gaskets?

Pauloil
Posts: 1038
Joined: 21 March 2006
Year and Model:
Location: davenport, IA

Post by Pauloil »

get OEM seals at fcpgroton.com or a site like that
99 V70XC 158K

95 850glt 188K

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BEJinFbk
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Year and Model: '98 V70 R
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Post by BEJinFbk »

The big thing is WHY the cam seal blew out...
Clogged PCV? Hmmmm.....
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

Trenchcoat
Posts: 15
Joined: 6 May 2010
Year and Model: 850, 1996
Location: Louisville, KY

Post by Trenchcoat »

BEJinFbk wrote:The big thing is WHY the cam seal blew out...
Clogged PCV? Hmmmm.....
So the blown cam seal is a symptom of the PCV clog? If that's the case, I'll wait until I'm ready to do the PCV system replace before changing that seal.

How often do the timing and serpentine belt tensioners need to be replaced? I see on the VS guide for timing belts that the S40 needs a new one for every belt change. I'm thinking of changing just about every rubber component under the hood such as the rear main seal since I have no clue about the service history of this vehicle.

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jreed
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Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
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Post by jreed »

Welcome to the site! I agree with the other posters---this is one of the most friendly Volvo boards on the web.

I am just about to replace my serpentine belt tensioner at 132K miles ('97 855 GLT) because the belt slips when the engine is cold. I replaced the timing belt tensioner a few months ago too when I changed the timing belt.

If you're shopping for parts, I would recommend FCP or IPD, and especially give Darryl Waltrip Volvo in Franklin, TN a call or email them with the parts that you need. They are pretty good on pricing and the quality is very high. For example, I bought the serpentine belt tensioner from them last week for ~$52 (tensioner plus the pulley). When I price checked this part it was $80 at one place, $120 at another, both of them the OEM version but not the genuine blue box Volvo part that arrived this week from DW Vovlo.
Good luck!
:D
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

jblackburn
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Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
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Post by jblackburn »

Trenchcoat wrote:
BEJinFbk wrote:The big thing is WHY the cam seal blew out...
Clogged PCV? Hmmmm.....
So the blown cam seal is a symptom of the PCV clog? If that's the case, I'll wait until I'm ready to do the PCV system replace before changing that seal.

How often do the timing and serpentine belt tensioners need to be replaced? I see on the VS guide for timing belts that the S40 needs a new one for every belt change. I'm thinking of changing just about every rubber component under the hood such as the rear main seal since I have no clue about the service history of this vehicle.
That's EXACTLY why I blew one out.

Timing tensioners every 140K/10 yrs; belts every 70K/6-7 yrs. Do NOT go aftermarket for anything in the timing belt area, this is the single most critical engine component. If you don't know what was replaced last time, change everything. If your odometer stopped about 5 years ago, it's probably time for a new water pump too.

Serpentine belt intervals are every 60K...which probably means I have something else to replace too. The tensioners and idler pulleys are probably good for 120, at least that's when most people are seeing them start to fail and make noise.

Don't worry about the RMS unless it's leaking oil everywhere.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

Brazuca_ny
Posts: 100
Joined: 16 August 2009
Year and Model: 2005 v50
Location: NYC

Post by Brazuca_ny »

Another note on the RMS if you're doing the PCV system it'll relieve any pressure, preventing a failure trust me you'll know when the MRS went, you'll first start leaving some oil when you park then when its really bad you'll spray everyone behind you. :mrgreen:
97 850R, 128000 RIP
96 850 R, 150000,flame red SOLD
2012 S60 t5 amber flame, beach wood interior, sexy baby ;)
2007 xc90 49000, Black on Black, family tank. :)

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