850 oil cooler line replacement

[mapaed850]

1996 850 turbo sedan
It appears as if I have a leaking top oil cooler line. The repair looks pretty simple. However, I've been tricked on these simple repairs before. Does anybody with experience of this repair have any warnings for me? Also, should I buy the cheapest hose I can find or stick with oem? It's kind of a pricey hose $85-$114.

[Ozark Lee]

It depends on where it is leaking. If it is leaking at the joint between the line and the radiator it is an easy deal - just install new O rings and a new clamp. If it is leaking at the crimped joint behind the connector you will need a new line. They have been a bit of a weak link and we have had several members that have had failures. OEM is normally very good but if you can find a part from Gates I would think it would be fine. If it is a Scantech replacement or some house brand run away as fast as you can.

...Lee

[holler1]

Repair is a little tricky. Access to the other end of the line is through the passenger's side wheel well under the crank pulley. There are several threads with photos on the site- try a search.

[mapaed850]

Thanks for the info. I just figured this wasn't a common repair item but I guess I was wrong given all the posts a search revealed. Seems like the difficulty ranges from a "little tricky' to a total PITA. I've got a few estimate inquireys I'm waiting for responses on. Given it appears that I'll be paying close to dealer prices for the parts anyway if I'm not saving too much I'll have it done at a shop. While I'm waiting for repair shop resonses does anybody who has had this done at a dealer or specialty shop have a ballpark price range I can use for comparison? If it's more than $150-200 in labor I think I might try it myself.

[jblackburn]

$550 recently for mine...both oil cooler lines and a transmission line as well. Seems to be a pretty common issue, the crimps let go all of a sudden on mine and leaked a quart or so of oil out within 200 miles.

It looks like a total PITA to me...they are not accessible from under the car at a point where you can get to them with a wrench from below. From what I could tell, and what the mechanic could tell, the subframe has to be lowered to replace them. I had it done by them, and I still regret it, still paying it off. I'm not usually one to shy away from repairs, but I didn't feel like dealing with the subframe on my "weekend off".

However, some say that you can access the lines much easier by removing the passenger side fender liner. I'd say it's worth a shot if you want to give that a try.

[whoa]

Is the leak at the hose fitting essentially just a loosening crimped hose clamp? I would be tempted to cut a slot in the crimp fitting with a dremel, and then put a couple of screw-type hose clamps on it to see if that does the trick.

[holler1]

Is the leak at the hose fitting essentially just a loosening crimped hose clamp? I would be tempted to cut a slot in the crimp fitting with a dremel, and then put a couple of screw-type hose clamps on it to see if that does the trick.

That is probably worth a try. However, the replacement does not require the subframe to be dropped. You can access the "rear" ends of the hoses from the passenger side wheel well, and you have to be careful in putting the new lines back in the oil thermostat so as not to damage the O rings on the ends. The other PITA part is replacing the bolt in the clamp that holds both lines onto the engine. That requires a very long thin socket extension, or very small fingers, to get at the bolt.

[mapaed850]

Is the leak at the hose fitting essentially just a loosening crimped hose clamp? I would be tempted to cut a slot in the crimp fitting with a dremel, and then put a couple of screw-type hose clamps on it to see if that does the trick.

I like this idea. I think I'll give it a try this weekend. I'll keep you all posted

[loumarkd]

how did this go for you? were you able to take any pics of the process?