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Has anyone found cheap solution for engine sludge?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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nitink
Posts: 50
Joined: 13 March 2006
Year and Model:
Location:

Has anyone found cheap solution for engine sludge?

Post by nitink »

Does anyone found cheap solution for removing engine sludge?

Here is what I have found over net, will anyof these work for 95 850 sedan

1) Use Grunk engine flush keep engine idel for 5 mins and then oil change
2) Use auto-rx (http://www.auto-rx.com/)
3) Use enginewity from Saab/GM dealership? (have anyone really used it? :roll:)
4) Fill engine with ATF and ideal for 10mins and then regular oild change
1995 Volvo 850, Non Turbo

95300 miles

White850Turbo
Posts: 923
Joined: 11 April 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Plano, TX

Post by White850Turbo »

Auto-RX is very good stuff. It's the only additive I've seen people consistently have good results with.

After the Auto-RX treatment, I'd recommend going w/ a synthetic oil that meets VW 505.00 and 502.00 specs. Some of VW's engines have sludge problems, so some oil manufacturer's have developed formula's especially to deal with this problem. I know that Autozone carries a synthetic 5W-40 Castrol Syntec oil and a 0W-30 oil that I also believe meets these specs. Motul also makes some oils that meet these specs. I'm sure there are others as well.
-Sean

1995 850 Turbo (Extensively Modded)

1998 S70 T5 (Almost Stock)

saltydog
Posts: 51
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model:
Location: toronto, ontario, canada

Post by saltydog »

solution? yes. Cheap? no. do as I'm doing now.....replace the engine. Additives, chemicals, snakes....they all require one important thing - access. If your oil light is illuminated while running, you have a blockage somewhere in your oil galleys. For any chemical to have even the smallest chance of working, it needs to flow freely through the system to break it down. How's it going to do that if it's already blocked? I tried everything including a process that forced this stuff through the engine under pressure, to no avail. Volvo's have very small, intricate oil passages that clog easily & once they're pluged, you're finished, it's either rebuild or replace. Factory recommended oil service intervals are way too long, but it's what most people follow religiously. Combine that with a varying climate, lots of short trips, & lack of flame trap service & you've got yourself a guarenteed problem by 60 - 70K miles.
spawn of satan 2001 XC70 Brown (how appropriate)

96 850 turbo wagon - come back please

86 740 turbo wagon RIP

84 240 turbo wagon RIP

saltydog
Posts: 51
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model:
Location: toronto, ontario, canada

Post by saltydog »

I forgot to add that I tried the enginewity at a GM store......that's the process I mentioned. I spoke to people who had cars with NO oil pressure at all & the process worked. They had my V70 for 2 days.....& it's the only time they've never had this work - I know, sounds like they work at a Volvo store. Expensive & ineffective on our cars.
spawn of satan 2001 XC70 Brown (how appropriate)

96 850 turbo wagon - come back please

86 740 turbo wagon RIP

84 240 turbo wagon RIP

nitink
Posts: 50
Joined: 13 March 2006
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by nitink »

fortunately my engine light is not on yet.
The reason I was thinking about it is that my car's accleration is poor and I was thinking may be engine flush will improve it. Plush if it doesn't cost a fortune it may be good preventive maintainence.

BTW how much does it cost to do engine witty? will GM dealership do it correctly for volvo?
please let me know
1995 Volvo 850, Non Turbo

95300 miles

saltydog
Posts: 51
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model:
Location: toronto, ontario, canada

Post by saltydog »

don't know where you live, but I had it done at Marvin Starr Pontiac in Toronto - they have the only machine in the city. My cost was $325.00 after 15% taxes plus I supplied my own synthetic oil. If the shop you're dealing with has the actual 'enginewity' machine, it supposedly comes with all the adapters required to do any car & mine was the first Volvo they had ever done & hook up was no problem. If you don't have a light - then I would do it pronto! I doubt the engine flush will help your power situation - I would think a fuel system flush would be more what you require there, but I would still do the oil galley clean while you can & replace your flame trap & I'll guarentee that you'll get another 100K out of it without my troubles. Try running some fuel injector cleaner through it for the next 4-5 tanks of gas with some higher octane - you may be surprised what that does.....& get some new volvo plugs, not the cheap platnum stuff. :)
spawn of satan 2001 XC70 Brown (how appropriate)

96 850 turbo wagon - come back please

86 740 turbo wagon RIP

84 240 turbo wagon RIP

alec88
Posts: 3
Joined: 9 May 2010
Year and Model: 740 Turbo, 1988
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA

Post by alec88 »

I wanted to flush my 88 740 turbo but in the instructions for every flush that I have looked at it says, "Not recommended for vehicles with oil cooled turbochargers." She has 257,XXX miles and her dipstick looks like an dirty egg beater. I plan on starting by removing the oil pan and cleaning everything I can reach. Do flushes hurt turbos and is it worth removing the valve cover for a good air purge?

JDS60R
MVS Moderator
Posts: 3532
Joined: 21 February 2009
Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
Location: Mount Juliet, TN
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by JDS60R »

Hi Alec,

No need to take the oil pan off.

The reason they do not want you to use flush on a trubo engine is as the sludge breaks down it can get stuck in the turbo bearings and cause issues/failure.

Use a high quality flush that will diperse the sludge. I use this one http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/flsh.aspx
make sure you have the engie fully warmed up before adding the engine flush. Just let it idle durning the flush period. Do not rev the engine. Do not drive the car.

If your car made it that long I doubt it is badly sludged up but you can confirm that with a look inside the oil fill cap ( unless you have a screen). make sure to change the oil and filter after the flush and then change that oil again in 1000 miles. It is overkill to do this but it never hurts. Do not flush the engine if you are about to go on a long trip. Do it when you get back.

In performing an engine flush at this mileage there are a few concerns. ( these are rare but happen in neglected , very sludge filled engines)
1. Leaks - it the car is already leaking - it may leak more as the sludge may have been plugging up the leaks.This includes sludge at the seals.
2. Oil rings - Sometimes in highly neglected engines the bottom oil ring is assisted by ( and frozen in place) with an accumulation of deposits just underneath the oil ring. If this is the case oil burning will increase until you can free up the oil ring again.
Retired

alec88
Posts: 3
Joined: 9 May 2010
Year and Model: 740 Turbo, 1988
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA

Post by alec88 »

Thanks, I will give that a try.

shayneO
Posts: 1
Joined: 4 February 2012
Year and Model: 2009
Location: New york, USA

Post by shayneO »

Do you know that going in for an oil change or for automobile maintenance can often mean getting upsold on other goods. One of these goods, a motor flush, is offered much more frequently than an engine really needs it. Article resource: The basics of an engine flush. When you do an engine flush, the engine will become cleaner and lighter. The engine furthermore would now appear to be more powerful. Engine flush is a useful tool to help prolong the life of your car. However, it should be used every other oil change and you must also change the oil filter. It is important to follow the manufacturers instructions on how to use it because it varies depending on the brand.

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