Disc brake overheated

225-50R16 · Post by **225-50R16** » 12 May 2010, 21:02

Some time ago I had a problem with overheated disc break and with distortion of it. I have taken stuff out and I found that the caliper was stuck. I changed it and everything looked ok. After that I needed to resurface my disc brakes and always after that they where wobbling again. Next I changed both front discs. I was trying to rotate the wheel when my car was jacked and everything looked ok. Through this time my car had a tendency to pull towards the right side during driving. This problem always disappeared after disc brake resurfacing or disc changing. The problem with steering always came back as the wobbling disc. Finally I found that the disc break where I changed the caliper was overheated so it appeared all the time when I had problems with steering and the wobbling disc . It is not that hard as it was when I changed the caliper, I can rotate the wheel, but definitely the disc is overheated. At this point I am not sure if I was not able to find out the problem earlier or if it is stuck more so it is more apparent.

What can cause light break heating, the caliper I changed, fluid, what else? I can eliminate the stuck pads in its bracket.

Post by **JDS60R** » 12 May 2010, 22:16

Although some brake pads create too much heat the pads are rarely the cause. What pads did you use -stock?

I see three issues for you to look at.

1. If the rotor was truly overheated you shuold replace it. Most people get brake pad transfer if the rotor and pads get too hot. This condition can be fixed with resurfacing/cutting of the rotor. But if it trul warped then the shape of the disc has changed and cutting it creates a thin area that is more prone to warp.

2. Caliper and caliper grease - If you installed a professionally rebuilt caliper you should be fine. Many install the caliper and decide to grease the pins the caliper slides on with a petroleum based grease. This causes the seals to swell and capture the pins. If this happened you can repalce the pin seals and lubricate with a silicone grease like syl-glyde avaialbe at Napa for $5

3. Brake lines. The flexible lines do deteriate over time and can be almost closed on the inside. This lets some pressure remain in the caliper and drag the pads on the rotor. If you open the bleed nipple and a little squirts out then you probably have this issue.

Please let us know what you find and what parts (pads, caliper and rotors) you are using now.

225-50R16 · Post by **225-50R16** » 12 May 2010, 23:47

JDS60R wrote:Although some brake pads create too much heat the pads are rarely the cause. What pads did you use -stock?

I see three issues for you to look at.

1. If the rotor was truly overheated you shuold replace it. Most people get brake pad transfer if the rotor and pads get too hot. This condition can be fixed with resurfacing/cutting of the rotor. But if it trul warped then the shape of the disc has changed and cutting it creates a thin area that is more prone to warp.

The rotor is not truly overheated. I was able to touch it (driver side) after 20 min drive but I could not kept my finger on it. Why I says it is overheated is because on the other side was much cooler.

JDS60R wrote:2. Caliper and caliper grease - If you installed a professionally rebuilt caliper you should be fine. Many install the caliper and decide to grease the pins the caliper slides on with a petroleum based grease. This causes the seals to swell and capture the pins. If this happened you can repalce the pin seals and lubricate with a silicone grease like syl-glyde avaialbe at Napa for $5

Caliper I bought form Part Geek. I do not remember that I have been applying grease or not.

JDS60R wrote:3. Brake lines. The flexible lines do deteriate over time and can be almost closed on the inside. This lets some pressure remain in the caliper and drag the pads on the rotor. If you open the bleed nipple and a little squirts out then you probably have this issue.

Please let us know what you find and what parts (pads, caliper and rotors) you are using now.

After resurfacing the rotors twice I was advised on this page to change it. Thing worth to mention is that the rotors and pads formerly installed trough mechanic lasted 80k miles. The pads where still good, the rotors needed to be changed because the resurfacing made them thiner and thiner.

New disc installed are EBC, green stuff pads. I would like to mention once again that problem is only on one side so I can eliminate quality problem of used disc/pads. Talking about quality I am not sure about caliper I used.
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Post by **JDS60R** » 13 May 2010, 11:50

If I understand you correctly both front rotors, both front flexible brake lines and one caliper has been replaced.
Is that correct?
Which caliper did you replace (front left or front right) ?

It was pulling right which makes me think the left was not grabbing (caliper stuck).

It is normal for the driver side rotor to be slightly hotter when only the driver is in the car.

225-50R16 · Post by **225-50R16** » 13 May 2010, 12:28

JDS60R wrote:If I understand you correctly both front rotors, both front flexible brake lines and one caliper has been replaced.
Is that correct?
Which caliper did you replace (front left or front right) ?

It was pulling right which makes me think the left was not grabbing (caliper stuck).

It is normal for the driver side rotor to be slightly hotter when only the driver is in the car.

Both front rotors has been changed and left caliper but no one line has been changed.