Hi,
My 850 wagon tailgate trim rattles - I'm trying to disassemble the trim without breaking any of the plastic clips. How do you get the upper brake light piece off without breaking it? Is it just one little cover, or do you take the whole plastic peice off (the one that runs lengthwise across the tailgate width)?
Thanks for any information.
Tailgate rattle
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Fix Tailgate Rattle Once and For All
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yeagermeister
- Posts: 85
- Joined: 18 May 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: richmond, va
- Been thanked: 1 time
i found this kit that should help- i'll be doing this soon, as mine rattles as well. but i found that the outermost clip retaining holes are cracked, so i'm working on a fix for that, possibly a small sheet metal plate cut to size glued to the tab.
(the other) sean
'94 855 5-speed
'02 lifted Nissan XTERRA
'94 855 5-speed
'02 lifted Nissan XTERRA
I have removed the clips (they kept popping off anyway) and replaced them all with heavy duty velcro stik on pads, including one in the brake light fitting (this comes off as one with the tailgate trim on my 97 850) the brake light one is essential to keep the whole thing on
This works perfectly. The clip and hole system is flawed as this happened on my old 760 estate as well. They aren't strong enough to take the slamming force of the tailgate
This works perfectly. The clip and hole system is flawed as this happened on my old 760 estate as well. They aren't strong enough to take the slamming force of the tailgate
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yeagermeister
- Posts: 85
- Joined: 18 May 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: richmond, va
- Been thanked: 1 time
i did try this, and the heat here in VA has melted the adhesive. i will be buying the kit ASAP.malum wrote:I have removed the clips (they kept popping off anyway) and replaced them all with heavy duty velcro stik on pads
(the other) sean
'94 855 5-speed
'02 lifted Nissan XTERRA
'94 855 5-speed
'02 lifted Nissan XTERRA
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bluedog23
I ran about crazy trying to fix my rattle (95 -850 wagon). Changed the kit out twice, even drilled and screwed the trim. Finally I rode around in the back while the wife drove. Noticed that the whole door actually moved in the frame. From the outside I could push the door in and out. A closer look found that the latch hook in the floor was broken. 5 minutes to remove floor, trim and hook, then 30 seconds to weld the bumper tab part of the hook. I also wrapped the hook's two bumpers with duct tape. It has been over 10,000 miles on Michigan roads and not one rattle since. Note, the latch hook adjustment backwards to what you would think, position it towards the rear to lessen the amount of play in the door.
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850newguy
Nice site! I just discovered this place and am impressed with the info here!
My experience with the eEuro kit is it's got all the parts you need but it doesn't solve the installation difficulties. Those little plastic tabs are a devil to get in place and then secure into the mounts without tearing them apart. They do include inserts to repair the holes where the plastic tabs attach to the hatch, but again this doesn't help align the tabs with the mounts.
The Velcro idea sounds good, but the adhesive is the key to attaching the pieces. I've used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive for a few things, but it's hard to clean up after you're done.
Also had the repair done by a "professional" auto body repair shop after the back window was blown out by a hot dogger in the HS parking lot, but they drilled screws into the trim and sheet metal to hold it into place. (They did such a crappy job, this didn't work!) They also missed the loose hinge mount and the broken glass left in the tailgate. (So much for quality control.)
I think the Velcro idea would work with the right adhesive.
JMHO
My experience with the eEuro kit is it's got all the parts you need but it doesn't solve the installation difficulties. Those little plastic tabs are a devil to get in place and then secure into the mounts without tearing them apart. They do include inserts to repair the holes where the plastic tabs attach to the hatch, but again this doesn't help align the tabs with the mounts.
The Velcro idea sounds good, but the adhesive is the key to attaching the pieces. I've used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive for a few things, but it's hard to clean up after you're done.
Also had the repair done by a "professional" auto body repair shop after the back window was blown out by a hot dogger in the HS parking lot, but they drilled screws into the trim and sheet metal to hold it into place. (They did such a crappy job, this didn't work!) They also missed the loose hinge mount and the broken glass left in the tailgate. (So much for quality control.)
I think the Velcro idea would work with the right adhesive.
JMHO
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yeagermeister
- Posts: 85
- Joined: 18 May 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: richmond, va
- Been thanked: 1 time
i got the eEuro kit and broke 3 of the 4 bottom mount clips.
i got the kit from ebay that had the 2 screws for $10, and laughed at how i was an idiot for buying it.
i haven't installed the second kit yet, and i've had it for over 2 months. now i just listen to the tailgate rattle in conjunction with the front suspension rattle as a little chorus of thunks.
i got the kit from ebay that had the 2 screws for $10, and laughed at how i was an idiot for buying it.
i haven't installed the second kit yet, and i've had it for over 2 months. now i just listen to the tailgate rattle in conjunction with the front suspension rattle as a little chorus of thunks.
(the other) sean
'94 855 5-speed
'02 lifted Nissan XTERRA
'94 855 5-speed
'02 lifted Nissan XTERRA
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Guest
i tried your method of positioning the latch towards the rear and now the door has a gap between it and the frame. wouldn't it make more sense to put the latch toward the front to hold the door closer to the frame?bluedog23 wrote: Note, the latch hook adjustment backwards to what you would think, position it towards the rear to lessen the amount of play in the door.
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