Air conditioner issue

falconbrother · Post by **falconbrother** » 31 Mar 2010, 09:41

Hi folks,

I have a 2000 V70. My wife turned the ac on yesterday and no cooling. I looked it over. Everything is working except the compressor isnt kickin on at all. I'm gonna check the freon tonight. Are there any electrical issues I need to look out for? Any hidden fuses on the compressor? I'm hoping that I dont have a major leak to worry about.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 31 Mar 2010, 10:29

One common issue is the clutch gap. There is a $0 quick fix using plastic bread clips and it only takes about 20 minutes. However, the symptom for that is that it works great for 10-15 minutes and then starts blowing hot air. Then after a few minutes or miles if you start it up again then it will do the same thing again.

If the refrigerant gets low the compressor will cycle on and off every couple of seconds. But if it gets too low than the compressor will not run at all. Once you put some refrigerant in, see if that takes care of it.

One frequent problem with the 850 (especially those without a cabin filter is evaporator developing leaks, but if you've kept your filter changed and not allowed stuff go get down to evaporator coils and cause corrosion and deterioriation you should be OK. Many of us are accustomed to putting in a can of refrigerant once or twice a summer to keep the AC cooling.

Another frequent problem is the cabin temp sensor getting clogged with dust. There is sort of a "micro" fan that that pulls cabin air past the sensor and it will stall the system if it gets clogged. It's easy to clean out, some people do it with compressed air but it's delicate so be careful not to apply too much pressure to it. The sensor in your V70 is located I think next to the climate control swithes and the sun roof switch. Are the lights on the climate control blinking when you turn it on?

Post by **jblackburn** » 31 Mar 2010, 10:56

If it's not turning on at all, even if there is refrigerant in it, there is a temperature cut-out switch on the line by the firewall of the car that commonly goes bad. You can jumper this one straight on with no real consequences - it is just one of those precaution things they put in that just causes problems later.

I've gotta fix the stupid evaporator on mine before it starts getting into the 80's again...*grumble*

falconbrother · Post by **falconbrother** » 31 Mar 2010, 13:01

I will try the adding refrigerant tonight and see how that works. The clutch on the compressor doesnt kick in at all. The "most likely" suspect is low refrigerant.

Does the temp cut out switch keep the compressor clutch from engaging? If so, where is it?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 31 Mar 2010, 14:41

Actually the switch by the firewall is the low pressure switch. The thermal cutout switch is on the compressor itself.

Using a paper clip to bypass the low pressure switch should be used only to see if the compressor actually kicks on (confirming that you have a low charge). On a system with no charge or a very low charge running the compressor for more than a few seconds can cause the compressor to detonate due to a lack of oil circulation.

The best way to go about this is to get a gauge set and see if you have any pressure at all. Harbor Freight sells a gauge set for $40.00.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/C ... pricetype=

If the system is at zero pressure you will need to change your receiver / drier / accumulator before going any further. The receiver / drier / accumulator (It is the same part but it goes by different names) is often the source of the problems in the first place if you live in a northern climate where they use road salt. The salt rusts out the bottom of the accumulator.

...Lee

falconbrother · Post by **falconbrother** » 31 Mar 2010, 18:50

I started adding freon and the compressor kicked in. The pressure was 23 before I started. I used the whole can and now the AC is cold and works awesome. I am guessing that since there was 23 pounds of pressure when I started the system doesn't have a serious leak. I will monitor the situation. I'm hoping I can go a while before I have to pull the dash.

repps · Post by **repps** » 24 May 2010, 17:11

I am new to this site and have an a/c question. I have a 1994 turbo 850 and have had continual problems with the condensation draining into the right side of the interior. The drain is stopped up. Where is it and how do I unstop it?
Thanks for your help,
Ron

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 24 May 2010, 22:00

There is no drain on the inside of the car...the only drains are on the outside to collect rain water.

Post by **jblackburn** » 24 May 2010, 22:23

Under the car sorta directly underneath where the console in the dash would be. You should see a little tube sticking out, but you will have to crawl way up under it. You can then ream it out with a metal coathanger or something, just don't stab the evaporator from underneath, it won't like that.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 May 2010, 16:32

I find it to be easier to clean it out from the inside of the car. Remove the lower dash panel and pull the carpet back from the US driver's side and it will reveal a rubber drain tube that goes through the floorboard. Have a bowl ready to catch the water that will come out and then clear the line. Weed eater line works really well since it is stiff enough yet flexible.

Scroll down this page for the4 writeup that tailor did:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28316

...Lee