Volvo repair manual

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Jun 2010, 20:44

Clear the code and see if it comes back - if it does replace the sensor. They fail very similar to what you are explaining. The coil in the sensor is energized and beings to produce a little heat that exapands the coil . Then the coil expands enough to short itself or go out of spec. Whole cycle starts again when it cools off. Its a good chance the computer was right about the sensor being out of whack.

Let me know if the code comes back and what happened after you replaced the sensor.

A few questions to help if its not the sensor.

How long have the spark plugs been in the car? (mileage and time)(are they stock plugs?)
Are you running a stock air filter?
When was the MAF last cleaned with MAF cleaner (do when cold only)
and when the last check around the manifold for vacuum leaks took place?

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Jun 2010, 20:45

You don't have to clean it again - it can't hurt but it probably won't help either

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 21 Jun 2010, 21:02

I'll replace the sensor and let you know. I replaced plugs probably 1 year age/15000 miles with napa plugs. Airfilter clean also napa. I just check for vacuum prior to our conversations because that's what I thought this problem could be. Sprayed carb cleaner at manifold and hoses that I had removed. I never went into detail about the repair prior to the bolt problem but I had to replace the oil trap/pcv box. oil drain on block and crank breather were totally pluged. I had to clean out and blow out oil drain. It was jammed full. Made sure everything was clear and put it back together with new manifold gasket. Got no engine response when spraying areas with carb cleaner. Originally crank sensor was the only code I got if it was vacuum leak would'nt it come up with a code showing it running lean. Again it was a snapon reader.

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 21 Jun 2010, 21:15

By the way, when I was doing the pcv I had unpluged the cam sensor but the battery was pulled and it was pluged back in prior to connecting the battery. That just something the dealer had asked about when I was previously talking to them about this. Thanks for the help.

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Jun 2010, 22:09

Cool - we will look at the MAF and the plugs if the sensor doesn't get it.

Do you know who makes the plugs for NAPA? These motors are particular to plugs.

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Jun 2010, 22:17

Oops I forgot to give you the specs for the flywheel sensor in case you wanted to check it

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Jun 2010, 22:27

I was jsut rereading the post and I thikn we assumed the flywheel sensor after getting a cam/crank code.

I would call the flywheel sensor the crank sensor and then the cam sensor would be seperate. The cam sensor also fails in the same way so I would test them both cold and then both once the issue arises.

The cam sesnor does seem to fail more often that the flywheel. Sometimes its covered in oil that leaked past the seal. Take a look at the resitance on both (flywheel has a specific resistance while cam spec is not supplied- check resistance for short or comparison to replacement at parts store) . My general rule is to repalce them at any mileage over 100K if they come into question. I have also seen the cam sensor wiring get pinched during a manifold remove/repalce.

Let me know what you find. Diagram of both sensors atached

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 22 Jun 2010, 20:40

Question, I'm looking at the diagram of cam sensor location and my t6 has a plugged in sensor on the forward circle at the end of the engine that's inline with the filler cap is that the cam sensor or is to the back like the pic shows? If not what is it?

Post by **JDS60R** » 22 Jun 2010, 22:02

You should only have one cam sensor - its ok if its in the front location instead of the back.

volvo4bim · Post by **volvo4bim** » 23 Jun 2010, 14:52

Can any body help me with the manuel for removing the right rear wheel hub, xc90,2003,6cy.

Volvo repair manual

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