Seafoam HowTo Pictorial Followup for P2 Volvos Topic is solved

[velorider]

This post is simply an extension to Matthew's great How To Seafoam your Volvo. The following describes only the steps required for the intake stage using the brake booster vacuum line on the 2.4 S60. I was unable to find the vacuum tree mentioned in Matthew's post, either this cars don't have one or it looks significantly different. The following is a pictorial for Seafoam'ing the intake on a 2.4 S60. Read Matthew's post first for full directions and heed any warnings.

Before starting you'll need a 3/8 inch inner diameter (3/8 ID) hose and a funnel with a small spout like a transmission funnel. Connect the hose to the end of the funnel.

Most common location to Seafoam is via the brake booster line, on the S60 its PITA to get to. The brake booster is the big black round thing connected to the firewall inside the engine compartment in front of the driver. Follow the brake booster vacuum line around under the intake box to where it enters the manifolds. Notice the green clip in the picture, this is the opposite end of the brake booster vacuum line, just before it enters the manifold.

Next using pliers slide back the green clip and disconnect the line. I found using a screw driver to help loosing the line makes the job much easier. Try disconnecting the line slowly to allow time for the vacuum to decrease. There will be a hissing noise when you discount the line. Now connect the hose and funnel where you discounted the brake booster vacuum line.

Almost done. Now have you wife or even better a buddy start the car. The car will tend to stall with the line discounted so you need to keep the rpm's around 2K. You should hear a loud hissing noise from the funnel. Now SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY pour 1/3 to 1/2 of the Seafoam into the funnel. Don't let the Seafoam pool in the hose, the vacuum should prevent this. But to avoid this issues all together don't create any low spot in the funnel hose.

After pouring SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY 1/3 to 1/2 the Seafoam turn the car off and let it sit for 5 to 15 minutes. Now without the neighbors seeing start the car and drive it around until it stops burning white smoke.

Again read Matthew's original post first! Good luck and don't destroy your engine.

[JRL]

1/3 in vacuum line
1/3 in the oil fill
1/3 in the gas tank

but you forgot the most important item.
After it stops smoking (usually this is done by revving the car up standing still and NOT by driving it), takes from 15 minutes to 1/2 hour tops.
THEN drive it for another 15 minutes-1/2 hour and CHANGE THE OIL!

[FCPEURO]

Nice little write-up. Also, adding the notes from JRL are a good point.

I just have one question, does anyone put it in there oil and if so, how did it turn out?

[velorider]

Yes I did all 3. I ran the car for about 75 miles before draining and filling the oil. Oil came out a little darker then usual.

I did not mention the 1/3 Gas and 1/3 Oil because it's mentioned in Matthews original post, which I encouraged everyone to read first. This post focuses on the intake step since that differs slightly from Matthew's original post. Probably doesn't hurt to duplicate the information for those who don't read the original post.

Following Seafoam's recommendation driving is required after letting the car sit.

Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system.

[matthew1]

Nice, Velo, I'll link to this from my topic. This comes at a good time... in the next week I was going to do a Seafoam treatment to my 2004 V70 R, and it's almost certainly like your S60.

Andrew, putting it in the crankcase means you're now cleaning the engine on "both sides" -- both the combustion "side" and the lubrication "side". They (should) never "meet", so doing one side only never cleans the other.

[dbm123]

Although tube routing of the vacuum tubes is slightly different, I would like to point out that the method pictured above is the correct one for my 1999 V70 GLT, so I would assume it correct for all 1999-2000 2.4L Turbo engines as well as 2001 + vehicles. I have used Seafoam as follows: 1/3 can in the gas tank, 1/4 can in the oil (and I leave it in for the full duration til my next scheduled oil change) and 1/2 can of a Seafoam spray can in the intake system via a vacuum hose. I have had no negative side-effects from any of my described uses.

[Vala_S60]

I plan on just seafoaming the vac lines and gas tank only (i.e. skipping the oil reservoir) because I literally just changed my oil. Will I still have to change the oil if I only seafoam the vac lines and gas? Also, since I'm only seafoaming 2 out of 3 areas, could I just split the can half and half between the gas tank and vac lines?

[JRL]

I plan on just seafoaming the vac lines and gas tank only (i.e. skipping the oil reservoir) because I literally just changed my oil. Will I still have to change the oil if I only seafoam the vac lines and gas?

Don't bother
Wait until you're ready to change the oil
The oil is as important as the vacuum line, maybe the most important, gas tank the least.
Do it all at the same time

But to answer your question, no. No reason to change the oil if you're not putting it IN the oil!

[matthew1]

I've done just the intake and fuel system before. In fact I'm going to do only the intake in the next few days.

[xHeart]

I've done just the intake and fuel system before. In fact I'm going to do only the intake in the next few days.

How frequent you do this Matt -- by year, by hi-way miles, by urban miles?
Is it a maintenance/cleansing workout for the engine?