Let's talk turbochargers

[j_cd]

I have reached an impasse removing the turbocharger. The 3 bolts that attach to the downpipe were no problem. Then on the side of the turbo it attaches to the engine with 4 bolts. I've got 3 of them loose, but the lower one nearest the turbo is damn near impossible to get. It's right up next to the curved pipe, so you can't get a socket on it. A puny 13mm open ended wrench is not working either. I've removed the turbo oil drain pipe, but still no dice. Not sure what to do. Maybe I'll offer one of my mechanic neighbors 20 or more dollars and see if they can get it tomorrow.

[vjaneczko]

A puny 13mm open ended wrench is not working either. I've removed the turbo oil drain pipe, but still no dice. Not sure what to do.

Not enough 'oomph" with the wrench?

[j_cd]

Not enough 'oomph" with the wrench?

Well, the 13mm wrench I was using is 12-sided on the closed end. I bought one that's hex on the closed side, but I screwed up and got a 12mm. Back to Sears to exchange it.

Couldn't do anything today though, as I barely made it home in my Tacoma last night. It kept almost stalling on the freeway. I hate working on that thing. I had already replaced the spark plugs, throttle position sensor, catalytic converter and front oxygen sensor this month. So today I put in new spark plug wires and I think it's better now. After changing the wires, the ramping, surging and fluctuating idle seem to be gone. We'll see.

It's a '96 SR5 4x4 with 289,000 miles, so I just try to keep it running at this point. I made the job harder than it needed to be by taking all the wires off. The way I ended up routing them is not the same as it was before, but none of them are touching and it's working so far. I'll get more of those plastic spacer clips just to be sure. Back to the Volvo tomorrow.

[j_cd]

I'm still working on that bolt. I put a jack handle over the wrench and got enough leverage on the transmission to budge it a little bit. Only one side of the wrench fits into the jack handle though, and it's the wrong side. I'm going to try a larger pipe so I can get the closed hex end of the wrench onto the bolt. Pretty soon I'm just gonna tow it to the exhaust shop and pay them to get the damn thing out.

Did I mention that this job requires an elbow pad? My right elbow is ringing pretty good.

[pkc303]

I remember doing our turbo. Could you send a picture of the bolt. If I remember correctly, we worked from over and under the engine. I think we used a 1/4" 13mm socket with a universal on that bolt. I remember it was fun, not. Be sure to use a lot of the penetrating oil. Good luck.

[j_cd]

Yep, sounds like this one here.



You can see how there's a coolant rail in the way. It's the larger one in the bottom left. A ratcheting box wrench would fit in there, but Sears only had 12-sided ones.



Judging from the oil lacquer inside the turbo oil drain seal here, this turbo could probably use a rebuild or replacement.



I'm seriously considering taking it to the exhaust shop and have them remove the turbo. I know a place that's cheap and does good work.

[edit] Found a wrench that might do the trick though. Then again, this box wrench might be too wide. I'll try 1/4" as suggested.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03157.html

[j_cd]

F@#! that bolt. Plan B is in effect until further notice. I'm leaving the turbo in there and cleaning it up as best I can, then I'll reinstall with the new hoses that will be here today. Started scraping that gunk off with a chopstick. And who said they weren't good for anything?

I took the air intake tube off and the PTC nipple had some gunk in it, but was nowhere near totally clogged. Cleaning it up with some brakleen. I'm thinking the old intercooler hoses are where most of that oil came from. They're pretty tore up. The turbo air intake looks clean and the outside of the CBV looks clean underneath the grunge.

If it still leaks after the reinstall I'll have it taken out and check the PCV. But I have no exhaust smoke and passed CA smog with flying colors, so we'll see. Maybe it was just leaky hose connections. I'm cautiously optimistic.

[j_cd]

I broke the two plastic hoses that run from the PCV oil trap to the air intake tube. The smaller one was completely clogged. So now I pretty much have to do the PCV, which appears to be necessary anyway. I just wish I had ordered the PCV kit instead of a new cap, rotor and plug wires. It will have to wait until next week I guess.

[j_cd]

I just ordered the PCV kit from IPD. I'm sure this turbocharger isn't sparkly clean inside, but as far as I know it works just fine. I felt inside the air intake and that little wheel there spins cleanly. I'm assuming that's the turbine wheel. Hopefully the compressor wheel is still good too. There are no grinding sounds, so I doubt it's developed any excessive play yet, etc...

I never disconnected the coolant or oil lines, so it should be an easy job. Just pull the manifold, replace the PCV, then install new vacuum and intercooler hoses on the turbo. I'll cover parts that could be damaged and spray the turbo housing with some engine degreaser, after I scrape some more gunk off it.

[j_cd]

I cleaned the Compressor Bypass Valve and Idle Air Control Valve really well inside and out. Both appear to be in good shape so no need to replace them. I would like to pop a new actuator on that turbo though. It's too rusted to be able to adjust the wastegate.

The actuator is right on top, so I think I can change it without removing the whole turbo. Can someone who's rebuilt their turbocharger confirm or deny? The round actuator housing side has only two bolts, but I don't want to start prying up on the other end (the actuator rod) without knowing what I'm doing. How does that come off?

In other news, I've got most of the intake manifold bolts off, but it's still not budging. I'm following the PCV replacement thread for guidance. I'll get it eventually. I've actually removed the more tricky bolts underneath. Still tracking down the remaining few...