About to buy used 2000 V70 w/148K miles--what to ask

ansandvig · Post by **ansandvig** » 27 Jun 2010, 23:36

My wife and I are looking at a used 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD SE Wagon 4D with 148,000 miles on it. We're both Toyota owners and know nothing about Volvos. I'm also only moderately competent with cars and have no real mechanical experience--yet. Can anyone tell me what types of repairs or problems I may be running into with this model at this mileage? It is for sale at a mom and pop used dealer and does not come with a warranty. I have yet to check on the service record for the vehicle.

The car looks to be in good shape. The driver's seat leather is a little worn with some minor cracking but the rest of the car looks as though it has not been used much. The paint is still good and almost like new as though it were kept in a garage. The engine looks incredibly clean and all of the visible pieces--filters, hoses, fluid caps--looked either well maintained or as though they had been newly replaced. The car looks like it was well maintained by the previous owner. The only noticeable problem is that the motor for the moon roof is broken. It will open to moon roof for "vent" but it won't open all the way. I can live with that.

What in particular should I be looking for when looking at the engine and what should I be asking the dealer:?:

Post by **j_cd** » 28 Jun 2010, 00:03

I would check behind the front wheels and make sure the cv boots aren't leaking grease. Is it a turbo model? Check the back of the engine for oil leaks or grimy oil buildup. Ask if the transmission is original or was ever serviced. When were the brakes last done? If you bring along a torx driver you could check under the spark plug cover for oil too. I forget which size it is right this moment.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 28 Jun 2010, 00:06

You're going to want to take a look at the full service records. I hope they're available!

These cars can be great, but things do go wrong, and it is very expensive to go to the dealer. Thankfully these forums help with that! Anyway...

-Timing belt + tensioner should have been done at 105K or so. Make sure that the belt was replaced along with the tensioner.

-The AWD system is a weak point on this car. At some point the bevel gear and/or drive shaft may/will fail and those are extremely expensive to fix. Most people (myself included) opt to just remove the drive shaft and run the car FWD only. Saves a few MPG and no more worries about broken AWD parts.

-This car is equipped with an ETM (Electronic Throttle Module) which can be prone to failure. It will cause the car to stall, run erratically, and go into "limp mode". Take a look under the hood. Find the intake manifold (silver aluminum looking thing with 5 air intake pipes) and look under it from the front of the car. You should be able to see a little box. On that box there will be a sticker, either white or yellow. White means it is original to the car and its useful life may be running out. A yellow sticker means it has been replaced at some point (service records should help), and you will not have to worry for a while.

-After a test drive, with the engine fully warm, go pull out the oil dipstick (while the engine is running, in Park) and look for any smoke coming out. A common issue with these cars is the PCV system getting clogged. Leaving it be like that will eventually blow out all the engine seals. It is a tedious task to replace it yourself, but not too bad. I did it as well as many others, and there are some great write-ups here.

-The transmission in that car is very solid. But having the fluid changed is still very important. If you can't find any evidence of service, I might skip on the car altogether. If it has been done, plan on doing some drain & fills when you get it.

If you can take it for a drive and note any weird sounds or behaviors. Post them back here and we can certainly help to diagnose! I have a 2000 V70XC and I love it (my first car and all...). Since getting it at 120K, I've been doing near-constant repairs. However, they have cost very little because I found this amazing website.

Good luck!

ansandvig · Post by **ansandvig** » 28 Jun 2010, 11:08

These are useful tips. I will try to check everything out when I look at it again.

Also, I have found a few 2001 models with similar prices and miles. I'll check those out as well. I know Volvo redesigned some things in 2001 but are there any significant differences between the 2000 and 2001 models that I should consider?

I heard that the AWD system can be a hassle--and consumes more gas. But my wife and I ares specifically looking for AWD/4-WD since we'll be in Minnesota with tons of ice and snow. How hard is it to fix AWD system problems yourself on these cars? How expensive is it for DIY or dealer?

The models I was looking at is a turbo. I don't know if they sell any that aren't turbo in the XC AWD. I could definitely live without turbo but I haven't found any that don't come with turbo as a standard.

Also, will a carfax check give you service records, or just show whether the car has been in any accidents?

I suppose some of these questions are pretty basic but again, I have very limited experience. I appreciate the advice.

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Jun 2010, 11:23

Do NOT look at, consider, or even go near a 2001. They are evil

2003 and later are generally considered to be the good models for the P2 Volvos. Especially if you want an AWD model.

All AWD models are a light-pressure turbo engine. The base engines just don't have enough power to drive a heavy wagon with AWD. The AWD systems, if well maintained (most haven't been) can be kept going for a long time. Sure, it eats more gas, but it's something I'd like to have up north. That said, my FWD model is pretty great in snow alone, but I live in Virginia, where we get maybe 3-4 feet in a whole year.

Find a good independent mechanic that works on Volvos/Saabs/Merc/BMW. They will charge MUCH less than a dealer, and generally have a better idea of what is actually wrong with a car when it comes into them...most dealers I've dealt with (Chrysler/Jeep, mainly) are completely clueless.

CarFax sometimes shows maintenance on them, but as I recall, only the bigger service items. I guess it depends on where the service is done?

Post by **JRL** » 28 Jun 2010, 12:07

DO NOT BUY A 2001 OR A 2002 (period)

If you want an excellent P2 XC, buy my 04 in the classifieds, however if that's out of your price range just take your time.
My 99 (also in the classifieds) is one of the best in the country

ansandvig · Post by **ansandvig** » 28 Jun 2010, 19:41

I just spoke with the dealer. I mentioned the issues with the AWD system and what some have said can be problems with the transmission. He said he is unfamiliar with these problems but that there is a good Volvo mechanic in town that he would be willing to take the car to with me. I'm guessing the mechanic should, or would automatically(?), check all of these things for me. However, I'll mention the AWD and ETM specifically. I'll report back with any interesting news.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 28 Jun 2010, 20:20

It'd be great if you could get it on a lift and then hit the throttle a little bit to see that all 4 wheels spin, and do so without any strange noise. Of course it's different when you actually have pressure on it, but nonetheless, it would be a good place to start.

I hope you got a good one!

adk793 · Post by **adk793** » 29 Jun 2010, 01:42

JUst a few months ago i was in the process of buying a 70 series myself and setteled on a 2000 V70 XC AWD/SE with at that time 92K miles. And after messing up on my first purchase, heres what u wana check.

1) service history is a major part of buying this car, because i screwed up on that though the car is perfect, and now it has become a work in progress in terms of the endless repairs.

So here are some common issues, so ask accordingly.

See if the ETM )transmission modue/throttle body has been changed. The warranty is most likely up by now n its most likely been done, but just incase. Also the ABS module was pretty faulty so check on that. If the person isnt sure/doesnt know, call your local dealer, or which ever dealer its been serviced at. By giving them the VIN number, they can tell you the radio code, what warranty repairs have been done, etc.

As this is the AWD model, give some attention to the bevel gear. See if the fluid has been changed. If the seal has been done? See if its leaking.

Next is turbo, if its leaking, this is a common problem with turbocharged cars. So i wouldnt trip too much about that. If you have one, or get acces to one, connect the car to an OBDII scan tool and see what turns out. Make sure there are no pending codes, even if the light isnt on. Also with a decently advanced scantools can give you oxygen sensor readings. Make sure theyre not the same because that may mean once is starting to go

Notice a trend on the wear of the tires, and that its more or less even n nothing looks weird.

check the bottom of the car for any wet spots or leaks because some leaks never make it to the ground.
check all the car fluids. Make sure everything is at an appropriate level. Smell the tranny fluid (its located near the driver said under the air hoses, its a yellow stick, a little hidden (closer to the front of the car), if its burnt, its old or something may not be right. Make sure the car doesnt release a lot of smoke when it starts up because that may mean a blow head gasket.

see how the engine warms up on a cold start, within 5 miles, it should be at normal operating temp. which for this car is 3/4 of the way up on the gauge.

Then listen to how the radiator fan turns on/how the system cycles through

check the PCV system. I think a way for that is take off the engine oil cap, and put like a tissue on there, it should get "sucked" in

in relation to that, look down into the engine when u take the oil cap off, make sure there is no sludge build up or that means the oil hasnt been changed in time.
Also the rubber ring/gasket on the oil cap, lift it up n look under. If the oil hasnt been done in time, itll be cracked, or may even rip.

Give the car a few good 0-6 pushes, in my experience, all the check engine lights came on during this process, after a few shots.

If you get a chance, back the car up a hill in reverse gear. If something was wrong with the tranny, the first thing that goes out before other things is the reverse gear.

Otherwise, play it by the ear. See if you feel or hear anything weird. After a few test drives with these cars, ull know whats right or wrong.

keep us updated and good luck!

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 29 Jun 2010, 16:41

Do the balloon test for the PCV...don't try to suck a tissue through the filler cap. With the engine at OT and running, remove the oil dipstick and check for positive pressure and smoke, to be thorough place a balloon over the dip stick and see if it inflates. If there is pressure the PCV system needs to be replaced.