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Alternator replacement question

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Judy
Posts: 2
Joined: 5 July 2010
Year and Model: V70, 2002
Location: USA

Alternator replacement question

Post by Judy »

I'm told that my 2002 V70 might need a new alternator, because AAA replaced the battery twice in the last several weeks and the newest one died again. (They ran a diagnostic test both times after replacing the battery, and both times the computer said the car was fine, but after the car wouldn't start for the third time in several weeks, AAA said it might be the alternator.)

One repair shop (which I will call "A") tells me that if it is the alternator that needs replacing, it will have to be a Volvo one, because other brands have been known to burn out Volvo batteries, headlights and dashboard gauges. But that shop would charge me $750-800 to do the job, which sounds like a lot of money to me. I'd prefer to have the job done for less, but not if I'm going to have further problems with my car. I'm not the least bit mechanically inclined. I do trust the expensive repair shop, "A", because I went to them last year for a second opinion after another shop said I had to replace the brakes immediately, and "A" said there was nothing wrong with my brakes.

Because I'm a woman, I fear getting ripped off by repair shops that take advantage of many women's lack of knowledge about cars.

Thanks very much for any advice, suggestions, tips you can give me. (I never had to replace my car's battery since buying my car new, until just a few weeks ago.) I live in Florida and have no garage, so my car sits out in the hot sun 24/7, which might have an affect on the battery.

jblackburn
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Joined: 8 June 2008
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
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Post by jblackburn »

Before you throw money at an alternator, have it tested.

Take your car to an Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, or Sears, and ask them to do a charging system test on it. With the engine running and the idle held around 1500-2000 RPM, you should see 13.8-14.2V.

If that checks out OK, your alternator is fine, and you've probably got a parasitic drain somewhere killing your battery...something is staying on once the car is shut off. Door lights, glovebox lights, and trunk latches are common suspects for that.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

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Judy
Posts: 2
Joined: 5 July 2010
Year and Model: V70, 2002
Location: USA

Post by Judy »

Thanks very much, jablackburn!

So far in the last few weeks, I've had to have AAA tow me three times. I have only one more "free" tow left and after that I will have to start paying. I guess I could have someone jump start my car and drive it to Sears and do what you suggest. I just hope I don't get stuck there!

jda2000
Posts: 584
Joined: 1 April 2010
Year and Model: 04 V70 2.5T 01 V70T5
Location: Sarasota, FL

Post by jda2000 »

You might have a parasitic draw that's discharging the battery.

Any electrical components been acting up lately? like the AC, security system, etc. I had a door lock actuator acting up in one volvo, and another had the AC blower resistor acting up, both caused the battery to drain over a weekend.

As jablackburn said, if the charging test shows alternator/battery are OK?, don't let them sell you an alternator. Find a reputable shop to find the drain.

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